The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Completed Journals 1951 Chevy COE Car Hauler on a P30 Chassis

COCOE, I just found this thread. What a fabulous custom build! I'll be checking back in. Great story, great pictures!

Gord, I had the same idea and spent quite a bit of time researching them and checking out pictures of them on Advance Design trucks. In the end I decided I liked the look of having handles though. It seems to help break up the expanse of the doors and if nothing else this thing has plenty of expanse.

Double Dingo and Turbo4whl welcome along and I hope you enjoy the saga.

Like I told Gord I spent lots of time thinking about what I wanted it to look like in the end and once I came up with a look, I just had to figure out how to get there.

I wanted the exterior handles on the front and back cabs to be at the same level and I wanted the interior handles to remain in the stock locations. That way the passengers would have easy access in and out of the upper cab.

I looked at changing the latches out to one of the aftermarket ones but in the end the stock ones seemed to be the best option for my needs and look.

The original latches were in very sad shape. I spent a couple hours cleaning them up good enough to get a good look at them and oiled them up to see if they were worth saving. But in the end, they were badly worn and some of the welds had cracked so I decided to replace all four of them.

The interior handles were just a matter of putting it back together, but the exterior needed to operate the latch at the original elevation but the lever to operate it was 22" lower on the door. I wasn't sure how I could tie the two together but then I remembered when I was a kid. A couple friends and I had those gas-powered Cox airplanes that flew by string. One person would get it running and the other would hold on to the handle at the other end of the two strings. Then the guy at the plane would launch it and the other guy (the pilot) would control the plane up and down as it went in a circle. The pilot would spin around until it run out of fuel or crashed. Well, I crashed more than I ran out of fuel. The reason I'm telling you this is that whenever it crashed it would usually break into pieces or at lease crack the plastic it was made out of in several places. We would heat up a screwdriver with a propane torch and use it to melt it back together. But inside the fuselage where the strings attached was a bellcrank. It was an arm with an offset arm that would control the flaps by a tie rod between the two. It was the same function I was trying to accomplish on the doors. So, I started working my way through the design.

First, I drilled the new holes lower in the doors where I wanted the handles. When I installed them, I noticed that the doors were curved in at the original location for them but curved the other direction at the new location. The handles didn't set on the doors level because the bases were slopped but pointed down. I was just about to start grinding on the bases, but I noticed that the handles spun 360 degrees, so I switched sides with them, and they were perfect. Then on the latch end I took a square pin and inserted it in the latch, but it was to floppy to work properly. It needed to be secured on both ends. I didn't want to just weld a cover in over the old holes for the handles with an anchor point for the pin or if something happened to the latch you wouldn't be able to remove it without cutting it out. So, I made a cover plate that would attach to the doors using the same holes as the old handles with a sleeve to receive the latch pin and allow it to pivot freely. Then I cut it into the shape of the Chevy Bow Tie so it would look like it belonged there.

From their it was just a matter of making offset arms with a square hole on one end and a round one on the other. The square hole would fit over the pin at the latch and the square end of the handle. I had to run a tap and put a nut over the end on the handle shaft so it wouldn't fall off. On the other end of the arms, I put clevises and tied them together with all thread. That way I could fine tune the adjustment. Once I had it all installed and adjusted it worked great.

Then I stripped everything back out of the doors and moved them to the body shop to get them ready for paint.

Clever idea for the lowered handles, especially the bow tie emblem. Any pictures?

COCOE, great looking project! I just picked up a 52 or 53 GMC COE, which I will be putting on a P30 chassis. I’m getting a lot of good ideas from your build, appreciate all of the time you are spending sharing your build with us. Do you have any pics of the tilt cab framework (or did I miss it)?

Hello SD JunkMan, Welcome to the Journal. Here is a picture of the pivot at the front end of the sub frame. I bolted 1/2" X 4" plates to the outsides of the frame rails with 2" holes drilled through them. Then I took 4" X 4" X 1/4" angle and drilled the leg pointing down to give me a flat surface to build a base for the cab floor. I ran a 1 1/2" schedule 40 pipe through these and sleeved over them with a 2" pipe to keep the spacing right and add rigidity. Then I added tube steel outriggers with a plate to catch the original front cab mounts. From there I bridged between the angles in a couple places with 1" X 3" tube steel laid flat. I Welded these on both sides the whole 4" a crossed the angle to add some shear strength. The angles ran right above the frame rails and at the back of the cab I put some rubber pads for it to land and ride on. Then I continued the angles vertically at about 70 degrees up the 22" of the step to the back cab floor level and repeated what I did under the front cab. To support it I built a box frame that bolts to the frame rails and when the cab comes down it lands on it. I have rubber pads on this also and a 3/4" round pin that goes into holes in the floor of the back cab under the seat on each side. This keeps everything aligned and in place.

The doors are going well. Lots of sanding, plug welding filling old holes for mirrors and whatever, some body filler and more sanding. Then finally into the spray booth for priming.

Thanks COCOE. I'm guessing that's the hydraulic unit mounted to the passenger side of the frame?

Yes, SD that is the pump and one of the cylinders you see for the cab. I use the same pump for the roll back also. The lines route through a divertor valve to ether operate the roll back or the cab cylinders. I will try to get some better pictures of the underside as soon as I get a chance.

Back to the build. With the doors primed and cured out I did a quick wet sand and started applying color. As you can see from the pictures there are four colors to the paint scheme. The fenders, running boards/steps and below the deck is black, then it is gun metal gray to the bottom of the windows of the front cab, them it's a blend of gun metal gray and silver to the bottom of the windows of the back cab and it's all topped off with silver from there up. This meant that the front door had two color and the rear doors had three. With still working full time I only had the weekends to be able to paint so I would paint a color and let it cure out during the week and mask and paint the next color the next weekend. It made for a slow process, but I am pleased with the final product.

While the doors where curing it gave me time to finish up some of the other loose ends., First I installed the latches on the step then on to the rear light/license plate panel. I also started installing the sound mat that will cover everything I can reach inside the cabs, floors, walls, inside the doors and the ceilings all under the final finishes.

thanks for posting the pictures. Nice engineering and love the bow tie!

Can't wait to look at these photos on my computer screen. Tomorrow. What I can see on my phone, great work.

Wow, it feels like it's been a long time since I've added to the journal. I hope all had a good holiday season. It was good and very busy here but I'm looking forward to getting back into the shop.

When I left off, I was waiting for the doors to cure, so I started on the interior. First, again I spent a lot of time looking for Ideas on the internet and also on craigslist for seats. After several try's and fails I found what I was looking for. It was a set of black bucket seats that fit my rearend perfectly, were power and heated, in great shape and came with a matching rear bench seat. Most importantly I didn't break the bank. The guy I bought them from was going to use them in a project he is working on but just didn't like the way they fit. He was happy to recover some of his expense and I was glad to have them.

Next, I had to figure how to fit them in the truck for side to side and height. I started by installing the steering column and steering wheel. I felt that was the one thing that would be the hardest piece to relocate. Then I centered the driver's seat up on it and started blocking it up to get the height right so it was comfortable to the steering wheel and hanging my arm on the windowsill not to mention seeing out the wind shield. Once I had the driver seat where it needed to be I matched the passenger seat to it for height and distance from the door.

When I got the location down and height right, I traced a layout for the base on the floor of the cab and started building. I used 3/4" plywood to ensure that it would be very stable especially once I bolted the seats in through the floor. I needed to do that because the seat belts are integrated into the seat bases.

Now with those in I can move on to the center consul.

With the seats in I now know what I have for space for a center console between the seats. I had 6" and that would work for a lift up storage area like in a typical car. For the height I wanted it to flush out with the floor in the upper cab so everything would just kind of flow and it didn't stick up or drop down. It also worked out for a good height for your arm to rest on.

From there going forward I stepped it down so the top of the shifter would set about the same height as the armrest. I the lower section I needed to fit the shifter and the all-important cup holders. After a little research I found that cup holders were about 3 1/2" outside dimension so I needed 7" inside clear to fit two of them side by side. The shifter was no problem it is narrow, but I also needed enough width to fit a double dim entertainment center.

I started reading lots and lots about car stereos and finally settled on one. It was highly rated and not stupid expensive. Plus, it had all the features I was looking for. The width on it was just a touch under 7" so if I increased the width of the console to 8" outside and that left 7" inside everything would fit.

Right where it comes out from between the seats, I tapered it out 1" on each side. From there I figured out how much room I needed for the shifter and cup holders and then returned it up to the bottom of the dash. That gave me a vertical surface for the stereo plus room for some rocker switches. I screwed this together temporary until I had all the pieces in hand to start cutting holes.

It was time to start looking for ideas and material to cover it now.

All the parts and pieces for the console are here or on the way including the sound system. It was time to figure out where I was going to place the speakers and amplifier.

I wanted to put the sub-woofer under the rear seat, but I wasn't sure how large of one I could fit. I started by seating on blocks of wood to see what a comfortable height was for seeing out the upper windshield and fit the doors. Then I subtracted the thickness of the seat I had and that gave me a pedestal height of 11 1/2". Perfect for a 10" sub-woofer and since you can never have enough bass, I decided to put 2 in. For some mid-range I placed a 6' X 9" on each side of the rear seat about chest high. With it being open from back to front that would get plenty of sound up front, but I felt it was still lacking in highs and needed some balance. I decided I didn't want to drill the doors, so I put a 6" round full range on each side of the console in the front foot well. I was confident that the head unit I chose would power all these speakers but decided adding an amplifier would help ensure sound quality. But where to put it? Even with the double cab's, space is limited. I had built sound boxes and venting under the rear seats for the sub-woofers, so I didn't want it there that left just under the front seats. They are bolted down through the floor and the pedestal I built, and it would be a huge job getting to it if I ever needed to. After some head scratching It came to me. I could build a drawer under the seat and mount it in there. I figured out how big I could make the drawer then went online looking for one that would fit and found several good options that worked. Since I was building a drawer under the passenger side I went ahead and did one under the driver's side as well. I was a little concerned about heat buildup under the seat from the amp, so I installed two small fans like in a computer case. I put one on each side, one pulling and one pushing then wired them through a heat censer switch. That should handle any heat buildup.

My wife gave me an old sewing machine she had so for the last few weekends I've been trying to learn how to sew so I can cover the console. It's going well. Pictures to follow soon.

Thanks for posting but just reading your narrative wears me out. Good work.

Wow, this is an amazing build! I've just spent most of an hour catching up, and I'm loving the 1940s streamliner vibe of the car carrier! The cabs also remind me of the old style Zephyr trains, what a lovely nod to a simpler time. I'm the bicycle guy in Preston, on the way to Fall City, so I look forward to seeing this rig roll past my bikes. If you ever do, please feel free to stop and say hello!

Hello Tronman, I know your bike shop well. I used to drive by it every weekend on my way to the golf course in Fall City.

It feels like it's been a long time since I've posted anything new on here. Between finishing up a home renovation and being really cold in the shop I haven't had much time for the truck.

I am still working on my sewing for the little bit of upholstery I need to do but I'm not going to rush the final product until I am happy with my skills (I found it's harder than it looks). I have also finished the carpet and sound matting on the roofs of the cabs and inside the doors.

The only other thing I could think of doing and staying warm was to weld up the exhausts.

I'm looking forward to spring so I can finish up the little bit of painting I have left, then I will be down to glass and wiring. Who knows maybe this is the summer it will make it on the road.

It was a good day today. Even thou there was snow on the ground to welcome in the morning I needed a day in the shop to refresh after working way too much at work and on the house. I decided to turn the heat up in the shop and just get over it.

I had perched toolboxes for the sides of the truck, and they have been setting in the shop for me to get done with the exhaust so I could install them. That was because I wanted easy access under the truck to slide in and out getting to the exhaust. With that done and only having one day this weekend (working Saturdays) it was the perfect one-day project.

They all fit great. It's nice when things work out.

AWESOME!

I see a De Tomaso banner on the wall. Is a Pantera going to ride in the back?

Good eyes Gord yes, the reason I started this project was to haul my Pantera to and from the track. But since Covid I haven't had time to do any racing because I spend all my free time working to finish the truck but that's not a bad thing. I am trying to finish the truck and then paint the Pantera to match with the black at the bottom fading to silver on the roof.

It was a large part of the design of the rollback with the ramp extensions trying to get the ramps flat enough to load the Pantera in race trim it only has 2" ground clearance. But with different tires and changing the coil overs it jumps all the way up to 4" of ground clearance so I also drive it on the road when the local club has its outings.

Every time I click on here all I can say is, WOW. Persevere.

Nice car. If you plan to be up this way send me a PM.

Well, I was able to get another day in the shop last weekend, but it was still too cold to finish up the painting I need to do so I can install the doors. I decided to run the conduit for the speaker wires from the console to under the rear seats. Plus, I said I would get some pictures of the bottom side of the cabs. I didn't have enough straps or couplers, but I picked some up on Monday when I was in town and will finish it up the weekend. And good news it is supposed to warm up enough that I'm hoping to be able to paint.

Is the rear cab going to have a toe board / partial wall behind the driver's seat?

Thanks for the question Otto. No there isn't a toe board behind the front seats. I wanted the console to be flat with the rear floor, so it flowed and there was easy access to the front from the back and to the back from the front if people (Grandkids) wanted to change seats. There is only 6" between the front seats and the backs of the front seats cover the rest of the step to the rear floor. It is surprising the amount of leg room in the upper cab. If things fall down behind the front seats there is lots of room to retrieve it by just moving the front seats forward.

Wow, I'm looking forward to the weekend. It's going to be warm, and I have the whole weekend with no other commitments so it all about shop time. I will post the progress after the weekend.

Thanks, COCOE

At the end of my last post, I was very excited and looking forward to having a whole weekend in the shop with warmer weather. I have needed to finish painting parts for the doors, and I wanted to get started painting around the inside of the rear deck. My plan is to carry the exterior colors around the inside.

The good news was the weather co-operated, but the bad news was with the warner weather I needed to mow a couple acers of lawn and my wife who doesn't ask for much wanted a little help cleaning up some of the gardens. But I was still able to get some painting done and between coats I worked on my sewing skills and pulled the speaker wires plus 3 extras for lighting or phone chargers or whatever through the 1" conduit to the back cab so I can finish the interior.

All and all it was still a good weekend, COCOE

After getting the pieces for the doors painted and the first two colors on the interior of the rear deck a couple weekends ago, I was ready to finish the last color. I used marine grade plywood on the interior of the deck over the steel frame and I found that automotive paint acts way different on wood than metal. I'm not thrilled how it turned out but at least that's one more thing complete and I can revisit it latter.

While that was drying between coats, I keep practicing my sewing and made templets for cutting the vinyl to cover the console. I feel I'm getting close to try sewing for real.

When I was done painting and cleaning up, I started working on assembling doors. Back several post ago I showed how I wanted the exterior handles on the upper cab to line up with the handles on the front cab by using a bell crank to offset them. Well now I have one all installed, and you can see better what I was trying to do. I still need to do some final adjusting on the doors, but the latches work great, and the look is what I was going for.

When I started this journal, I wrote that it would take me 3 to 4 months to catch up to where I am on the truck and writing about things in real time. Well, that time has come. As with everything it has taken longer than I estimated. I started writing this 6 months ago. Sharing my project has been a great experience, one that I have enjoyed and appreciate the feedback I get.

I will keep posting as progress continues and I still look forward to whenever I know I'm going to get time in the shop to work on things and to find solutions to challenges that inevitably seem to arise.

So, keep rooting for me and thanks for following. COCOE

You’ve got a great project that I really enjoy following. Keep up the good work and posts!

I agree with Phil. I don't normally follow build threads that much, but this project fascinates me. I enjoy reading all your posts. Keep them coming!

You may have said or posted a picture , but what kind of car(s) are you hauling? SCCA? or something?

Good evening, Otto and all,

I am planning on hauling my Pantera first that I raced mostly at auto crossing and when we could get track time on road courses. They were SCCA races but since covid I've been mostly working on the truck with any weekends I have free. I think the race days are over for the Pantera but when the truck is done, I will use it to haul the Pantera to shows. I have been looking for something a little less expensive to fix if I do something stupid when racing.

I've been working on the interior and sorting out the old wiring harness from the old motorhome so I can merry them together with the new one I bought from a vender and placing lights. I should have new pictures soon.

Thanks, COCOE

Mustangs are a dime a dozen and cheap to fix. I'll be at the Walter Mitty at Road Atlanta in a couple weeks.

I agree Otto that Mustangs are cheap to fix but they are stupid expensive to buy here in the PNW. But I will worry about that when the trucks done, and the time comes to go racing again.

It's been a while since my last post and thing are moving a little slower in real time but still moving. The good news is spring has sprung here but the bad news is spring has sprung here. That sounds a little contradictive but it's nice that it's warmer, but it means that there is lots and lots of spring cleanup to do in the yard. But were getting through that and making the best of the time I get on the truck.

I got the old wiring harness sorted out and started on the lights on the side of the rear deck and under the cab in the engine compartment. I installed two 12" LEDs under the cab for lighting while working on the engine and down the sides I installed a yellow 2" at the front of the rear compartment and a red 2" at the rear. Between them I installed 3/4" yellow LED light at 2' on center. It was light when I took the pictures of these, but they are very bright when I checked them in the dark.

Well time has been limited but I have still been able to complete a few things in the last few weekends.

First, I sanded and painted all the metal deck on the roll back. All the wood I had sealed with a stain before I installed it.

Second, I finished the lights around the perimeter of the rear deck and wired the taillights, I also installed the back-up camera and license plate lights.

Third, After the paint dried on the deck, I removed all the masking and installed anti-slip strips to the steel, so I don't fall on my butt walking up it loading cars and you can see were the ladders hang on the back of the doors and hook on the side rail.

I'm still working on sewing so I can finish the interior but I'm not going to rush it until I have more time.

Well, it's been a while since I have posted but work on truck has continued.

I've determined that my sewing skills suck, but I'm going to keep working on them. In the meantime, I have been working on the wiring. Santa had brought me a wiring harness for Christmas a couple years back but when I was cutting the Motorhome off the frame, I saved all the wiring and thought it would be easier to just put it back together than start for scratch. After spending several days unraveling, the old harness, and testing it, it was apparent that 90% of it was junk that I didn't need or want and the rest spotty at best. I hate to give up on plan but sometimes you just got to call an audible. I had cut a hole in the firewall for the factory fuse panel that didn't work, so to utilize it, I ran all the circuits for things outside the cab (i.e. taillights, head lights, engine wires) though the hole that I had cut. I wrapped the cut out with rubber pads to protect the wires. from there I ran the wires in flex tube to their perspective locations. Then I bent up a sheet metal cover to cover the hole in the firewall and to protect the wires. I will paint it to match the next time I mix that color.

All the wiring outside the cab is landed and works well. I added a second battery along with a diverter switch to run all the secondary accessories like the hydraulics for the rollback, the winch, the stereo, a backup camera and additional lighting inside the back deck for loading at night. Would hate to be stranded after a race or show with a dead battery.

I'm working on installing the gauges and all the interior wiring but wanted to do something to clean up the fuse panel so when I was making the cover for the firewall I made a cover for It also. It gives me easy access and hides all the internal wirers until they get up under the dash.

Thanks for the support and stay tuned.

Glad you are still working on this build! So very unique, it's great!

What's the deal with the forward facing radiator inlet?

Good evening Otto, that is actually where the fill spout hooks to it. This is the radiator out of the motorhome. I didn’t feel the original one for the old inline 6 would cool the big block sufficiently so I used the larger P-30 one and I am installing low profile sucker fans behind it so as to not interfere when I tilt the cab forward.

I am having withdrawals due to no recent posting. I need a quick fix update. this thread has been to good at putting a smile on my face.

Haven't been on here in a while, you sure are moving along, albeit a little slower now that it's warm outside. Looking great!