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'Bolter
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Is there some sort of rubber boot or bellows that keeps the weather out of the emergency brake inner cable so it does not freeze in winter?
Thanks.
Phil
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EA4E57B8-A585-4C5D-AE78-A25DC002C7EF.jpeg (152.83 KB, 147 downloads)


Do it right the first time!
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It's called a park brake cable boot. Found on Jim Carter Truck Parts but most vendors will have them.


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I haven't had real good luck with the repop parking brake cable boots. This pic shows mine after sitting over one winter. Maybe because it was exposed to the weather (not covered by the pickup box.) Both sides looked the same.
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IMG_4658.JPG (225.49 KB, 121 downloads)
ROTTED PARKING BRAKE CABLE BOOT
Mater.JPG (333.8 KB, 122 downloads)



Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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That shouldn't matter at all. The originals lasted decades. My originals are still on the truck and look better than your new ones.

I've see this before with front end kits from Kanter. The rubber disintegrates whether it sees use in the elements or not. A friend restoring a '57 Cadillac had his rubber parts end up like yours while his car was on blocks in the garage undergoing restoration.

Where did you get your brake cable boot from?


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Forty9 I have a pair of those, but after i got them they didn't seem to be the right thing. The hole is too small for the threaded rod to fit.
Phil


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klhansen I have that boot from a vendor but the hole is way too small to fit over the threaded rod. I could ream the hole but that would probably destroy the nipple end of the boot. how did yours fit?
Phil


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Otto Skorzeny i will attach a photo of a new boot that i just got. i don't see how these will fit over the threaded rod. Does this look right to you?
Phil
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3100 Park Brake Boot.jpg (95.18 KB, 102 downloads)


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Two issues I see. One is the obvious, the rubber boot you bought won’t fit over the cable without stretching to the point it breaks (on my truck, one of two boots split before getting it over the cable on, then the other only lasted a couple of months before splitting in the same place). The second issue is the cable you have going to the back brake is not the correct cable for your truck. The metal part of the sheath is supposed to stick out further than the clamp as in the picture I attached so the boot has something to clamp around.

The first set of boots I got from Classic Parts. I bought another set from Chevs of the Forty’s and they look exactly the same.

I would really like buy the correct boots that fit and don’t disintegrate in a few months. I checked Steel Rubber Products and could not find the boots on their website. Any ‘Bolters out there have any luck find the right ones?
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IMG_2956.jpeg (278.81 KB, 92 downloads)
IMG_1612.jpeg (79.39 KB, 89 downloads)


Last edited by Phak1; 11/26/2023 2:40 PM.

Phil
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Like Phak1 I didn’t find them at Steele. I got them from the Filling Station but they’re probably the same everywhere. They went on without splitting but cracked in the middle after about 6 months. I also have modern style tie rod ends and the boots on those split too. They weren’t really stretched that much either. I think it’s an issue with the rubber compound used. Maybe there’s something that can be applied to them to soften them up a bit and avoid cracking.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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I used a straight spark plug boot on mine and it worked good. The rubber is thicker and won't crinkle up. 1950 Chevy 3100. I also bought the repo and they were to flimsy with to soft of rubber. Thought of something similiar which was the spark plug boot. I have forgotten the size and I think I had to open up the cable end for it to slide better. Cheap fix.

Last edited by Shof; 11/26/2023 5:24 PM. Reason: spelling

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Phak 1 Interesting! I got the cables from Chevs of the 40’s. I see what you mean by the photos. I’ll loosen up the bolts and see if there is a groove in the cable end. Not sure where I got the boots from.
Thanks.
Phil


Do it right the first time!
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Shof, that’s a great idea. I have replacements from the same source but may try and find some spark plug boots that will work.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2005
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Originally Posted by klhansen
Like Phak1 I didn’t find them at Steele. I got them from the Filling Station but they’re probably the same everywhere. They went on without splitting but cracked in the middle after about 6 months. I also have modern style tie rod ends and the boots on those split too. They weren’t really stretched that much either. I think it’s an issue with the rubber compound used. Maybe there’s something that can be applied to them to soften them up a bit and avoid cracking.

Kevin, on my current project, I had tie rod dust covers split within less than a month. While I was fabricating stuff in the shop, no weather involved!! I decided not to even mess with rubber and bought a box of polyurethane covers. Hopefully, they hold up better than the rubber versions. I'm guessing the tie rod ends and their rubber dust covers came from an offshore supplier so the seller could maximize profits?

Currently out of stock.

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Mark, I'll try those. Thanks


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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