The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop new drivetrain for '52

My '52 is basically stock with the 216 & 4 speed. I need to make it a reliable daily driver - it doesn't have to be fast, but does need to do 65-70 without destroying the motor. Having done some research on upgrading the torque tube, and seeing its probable cost ($700+ just for parts), I'm thinking replacing the whole works with more modern alternatives. Long term design is a small V-8 (V-6?), either manual or auto overdrive tranny, an open driveline (obviously), and disk brakes. My wife will be driving it more than I, to "tool around town". I would like to keep as much of it original as possible (i.e. I don't want to drop the cab onto a modern frame as as been one suggestion I've gotten). I'm all ears on this one - thanks.

You might consider buying a donor car a camero or nova. You can then drive it around and see how it runs. Then just swap all the parts.

Thanks Kedso - very interesting suggestion. I've got a '69 RS/SS 350 Camaro about 95% restored now (is anything ever 100%?). Good suggestion.
- rick

I have a 52 panel with a 350/350,and the stock rear end from a mid-70's 1/2 ton. I wish I had either an auto trans with overdrive or had used a good 5 speed with a big overdrive gear, like a New Venture 4500. Don't put in a 350 hydro-- the gas mileage and engine revs are not pleasant.

Now I am building a 56 3/4 ton, and that is what I am doing-- computer controlled small block and a NV 4500. But don't dream that you are going to come out of this for less than $700. It will cost several times that, even if you use mostly new parts.

My "new" 56 has no motor, so I have to do something. When I changed over my 52, the new tall rearend gears were not available. If I were to do it now, though, I would keep the original engine and change the gearing. It is just a cleaner job, and just as nice to drive. I have power discs now, and they are not enough better than the stock brakes to merit the money and effort it took to make that switch, either.

Vttinkerer

Thanks Vttinkerer, for the comments. I'm figuring $2500-$4000 for converting the whole thing using a mix of new & used parts. Still haven't made any purchases yet. My current project to do is reconditioning the leaf springs and shackles. What does the weight of a V8 do to the front springs? Should I be looking for them as well?

Hi Rilap,

I also have a 52, 1/2 ton that is all original. I am going to be swaping out the drivetrain as well. My thoughts are to go with a Heihts IFS, keep the 235 ci and use an adapter kit for a 700R4 tranny. Also, I'll have to swap out the rear end as well and install Mono leafs in the rear. This swap also mean I'll need a new steering column w/shift. The questions I have are:
Will I have to cut the firewall or floor in order to get the 700R4 in?
Anyone out there ever done this? I have installed a T350 trans a 53 Chevy PU without having to cut the floor.

I guess the more guys hack their's up, the more mine will be worth.

hello rilap. i think the small block chevy v8s actually weigh less than the 216 straight sixes. your reconditioned spring sets will help handling reguardless of what engine you decide on. you said it would be used to tool around town and must go up to 70mph. wo nelly! i've read on this forum that a front sway bar and front disc brakes do alot to improve handling and stopping on straight x trucks, and i will soon be doing these improvements on mine even though still using a 235 six. good luck

Thanks Gary G for the additional input. The parts are starting to pour in. As for Tony M, I'm planning on keeping my stock drivetrain just in case...
- rick

Good, do stuff you can bolt on and off. But just don't cut off the front.

Mind if I chime in? I am planning on buying a 53 GMC chassis complete with must 2 front, v8 eng mounts, etc already there to put under my 50 chev pu. I now know that the radiator support is different, but my question is how much and in what direction should the rear axle be moved to center it with the fender openings when I lower the rear about 2 inches? I have read that moving the axle forward about 3/4" will do it. Any comments? Thanks,
Roy

Typically, the stock rear end location is already forward and need to be moved back to center in the fender.

Thank you for the info. I was hoping my eyesite was telling me that the axle needed moved rearward. I have a "How to Build" magazine special that stated to move it forward 3/4", but in my eyes, looking at my stocker said to the rear a 1/2" or so looked right. Thanks, again.
Roy