I am trying to get the door handle off my 59. it has the orig clutch head screws. tried the screw drived ,nothing pb blaster. no is there another tool that will work ? the clearance wont let me use vicegrips. should i drill the heads and then try to get the screws out later?
Do you have the proper clutch head drivers? I've had success with those on a cordless 1/4 inch impact driver. Try tightening them just a bit, then loosening.
If all else fails, the head self centers a drill bit, making them easy to drill the head off. Once you have the handle off, you can use a little heat and vice grips on the stub.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
yes i have a set of drivers. just didnt want to strip the head. years ago i made a tool from a allenwrench but cant seem to find it . guess its drill time Thanks
Kevin is spot on with making sure you have the correct clutch head driver bit to fit the hardware.
I haven't tried his suggestion about using a "1/4" impact driver", but I have had success using a 1/4" hex drive clutch head bit like those shown in the 1st pic below with one of the 1/4" hex drive mini-ratchets in the 2nd pic. This setup has given me enough torque, plus the ability to add holding pressure down onto the bit to prevent it from riding up out of the screw head to loosening stubborn hardware.
If you want a little different ratchet setup, I have come across the clutch head driver hex bits that include a standard 1/4" square drive socket base that you can torque away on with a larger ratchet to help remove the stubborn hardware with too.
Last edited by Gdads51; 11/09/202311:42 PM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Before you break out the drill, put the driver in place and give the end of it a whack with a hammer. That helps the threads break loose.
I have a set of clutch head bits that have a 3/8 square drive adapter on them. A little too big, IMO. Like Dan said, 1/4" square drive would be better on those.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If its the one I am thinking about in the handle, DRILL it out. Retap. I replace all clutch heads. I use some for tag mounting bolts. Other than that ,they are useless. Those screw heads are a sore subject.
I have no relation to either of these sites or products, just provided as samples to some sources I found through a quick web search. You might even find some of these available from a FLAPS in your area?
Last edited by Peggy M; 11/10/20235:17 PM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Well success ! went with drill the heads off . used a 1/8 drill in the center went in about 1/8 in and then put a vicegrip on the screwdriver. little bit of muscle and the screw came right out . both times. lucky day for me. Thanks for the support.
Thanks for coming back and letting know what you did and how it worked!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Well success ! went with drill the heads off . used a 1/8 drill in the center went in about 1/8 in and then put a vicegrip on the screwdriver. little bit of muscle and the screw came right out . both times. lucky day for me. Thanks for the support.
So you're saying they unthreaded? Likely the heat from drilling that hole in the center was enough to loosen the hold on the threads from the rust.
Good Job!
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
i think the heat helped. was supprised that the rust was only on the head surface . the rest of the screw was ok. Lucky me. Now on to how to fit the door. but thats another story. Thanks again.