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Well shoots. Can’t get the trans to seat. Hits a hard bottom with about 1” to 1 1/2” to reach the bell housing. Scratching my head right now.
Looks like I’ll have to remove everything and check how they are fitting together.

Doug

Doug,

It almost sounds like your input shaft isn't indexing into the clutch plate grooves.

If your transmission is in gear, you can grab the output shaft u-joint yoke (while partially installed) and turn it a small amount by hand to get the input shaft to align with the clutch plate grooves, then just slide it home.

You'll know when you have alignment.

That’s what I tried doing. I’ll give it another try tomorrow. I’ll ratchet the flywheel a bit and keep trying.
This wearing me out.

Doug

That far out it sure sounds like the spline is not engaging the clutch disk, could be rotation as Gdads51 said or it could be just offset alignment that is keeping it from sliding in. I know its not easy but pull the transmission back out and check the disk alignment, you can rotate to get spine alignment but it is harder to get the disk to shift over if it is offset.

Did you use a clutch alignment tool?

Sometimes you can get someone to push the clutch pedal in while you wiggle the trans and push it in. I've also had better luck using a stock input shaft, than one of those plastic alignment tools for the clutch disc.

That's what I needed to do on my tranny. But it was less than an inch from mating up with the bell housing (just needed to get the pilot bushing lined up.) With the distance on yours, Doug, it sure sounds like the splines aren't engaging. It might be a long shot, but did you make sure that the number of splines on the clutch disk match the tranny input shaft? Might be worth checking, since you're pulling the tranny back out.

I’m down to the pilot bushing distance now. I spent the entire afternoon with it and still won’t drop in.
Tomorrow I’m going to pull everything off and then see if the shaft drops into the pilot bearing. If not I’ll replace it and start over.

Thanks for all the helpful hints.

Doug

With the guide pins, you should be able to stick it in till the disk engages, then with the clutch disengaged (tie the pedal down) drop the tail of the tranny a bit and a VERY LITTLE BIT at a time, raise the tail of the tranny and wiggle it side to side while pushing forward. I think it'll eventually drop in place. My engine was on a roller stand and I was putting the tranny in by hand (3 speed, though, so not so heavy). Once I got a prybar in the clutch linkage and released it, it dropped right into place.
Hope you can get 'er done soon.

10/21/23 update.

Got the trans on the ground today and checked the pilot bearing and found it to be off center. How that happened is a mystery since I used the alignment tool when the clutch was put on. But needless to say it was off.

So loosened the bolts on the clutch and put the alignment tool in and checked it throughout the process of tightening down the clutch.

Then I put the shifter in the vice and set it up for third gear. That’s what it looked like the trans was in. Drug the trans out from under the truck and put the cover on being sure everything aligned. Put in four bolts then shifted it into neutral. Took the cover off and made sure it had stayed in neutral. I could turn the shaft from the rear yoke so all good.

Drug it back under the truck. Put the alignment pins in then hoisted it up and left it.

Was tired and wanted to be fresh for next try.

I work tomorrow and Monday so might be a couple days for next update

Doug

10/24/23 back in the garage today. Not a happy camper. Got the same problem as before. Somehow I’m getting a misalignment still. Alignment tool was in place until I put the trans in place but still won’t stab the pilot bearing. And the alignment tool won’t go back into the pilot bear.

I’m tired and frustrated so going to take a break and come back later.

Doug

Edit
Did a little checking and it looks like the pilot bearing is smaller than the trans shaft by about 50 thousands. Grrrr

10/28/23 back at it today. Spent a couple hours wrestling with the trans and decided it was time to start over. Glad I did now. Seems I hadn’t installed the pilot bearing fully which was keeping the tranny from mating up to the bell housing by about a 1/2 inch.

Luckily I had ordered another pilot bearing as backup and it came in this afternoon. Also this time I had a real installation tool not a socket. Bearing went in fairly easy and got it to bottom out so all good.

Just finished getting the clutch installed and called it a day.

Doug

10/29/23 had a couple hours in the garage this morning and made some progress.

The tranny is installed now. High five 🙌

Next is getting the clutch adjusted. If all looks (feels) good I’m going to put some diesel and ATF in and start it up. Will run it about five minutes idling in neutral then drain it. I’ll leave it overnight to dry out then fill with 90 weight mineral gear oil.

Then on to the u-joint.

Doug

Progress is a good thing.

10/30/23 Got back out to the garage this morning.
I adjusted the clutch arm and just used the starter to kick it over.. the darn gears are still turning with the clutch in... I'm about to give up on this one.. don't know what else to to..

Doug

Post your new issue with your previous clutch issue in the Driveline forum. Posting in the Shops will get you more replies then here in the Project Journals.

Update.
Been a while since I posted anything. There was nothing new to say since I was on my 50th attempt to get the tranny installed. Well I had almost given up. I had even listed the truck for sale last week. But the spirits smiled on me tonight as I finally got the tranny installed and it appears to work. Yah hoo.
I turned the stater over and gears turned but when I pushed the clutch in they stopped.
So seems like I’m back in business.
I’ll post again after I get the driveshaft hooked up a put oil back in the tranny and get the shifter back on.

I’ll relate what I think the problem was later.

Til next time.

Great to hear, I was wondering what ever happened to your project.

I took the seat back apart and took the 1" foam I put in it.. it had me sitting halfway off the seat.. got it done and installed last night.. also got oil back in the transmission and the lid back on.. first try and the engine bogged down.. sooo toook the lid off and found the shaft sticking up wasw missed the hole in the lid and was locking the transmission up.. got it installed again and tried it and it shifts and goes into gear like it is supposed to.. so another step forward..

Now as to why I couldn't get the trans in all this time.. I was using a guide bolt in the top left trans hole on the bell housing and a bolt in the bottom right transmission hole to help guide the trans into place.. well I got it close enough in to get the top right bolt in and was going to pull it in but it was way to hard so I backed it off a little and went under to check clearance and saw that the bottom right bolt was hitting the clutch housing.. so cranked the flywheel over with a crowbar and got in on one of the valleys.. woo hoo.. trans slipped right in... can't believe that all this time it could have been a simple interference problem.. but that is behind me now.. I hope lol

next is either/or start hooking up the u-joint or pulling the speedo gear to post here to see if a replacement can be found..

Until next time
Cheer

Pulled the gear. 13 teeth. But only two were broken so I’m thinking it is the inside gear that got trashed. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.

Also undid the seat back and took out the one inch foam. It was nice but had only half a seat to sit on. Redid the upholstery and installed it a few minutes ago. Much more comfortable sitting back more.

Pics

Update 10/9/24
Got the torque tube installed.

Got the tranny installed but couldn’t get in reverse.

After taking the lid off twice and checking everything it still wasn’t going into reverse. That is until I was going to ck the forward gears starting in 2nd that I was a little off to the left and after jiggling it it went into reverse. It’s been two years since the first test drive that I had forgotten it was over and down not up like the shifter knob shows

So tomorrow morning will be the test drive and if all goes well I’ll start ordering the glass and seals to button it up and be drivable.

Doug

Update 10/10/24
Took Mrs Daisy around the circle 4 times and no problems. Went through all the gears up and down and all is well. Backed it into the garage no problem.
Has a bit of play in the wheel but nothing too bad.

Now I’ll start ordering door glass and all the weather stripping.

It was a good day.
Doug

That’s fantastic Doug. I know how good it feels to finally get such a drive in. Did one similar myself on my ‘51 yesterday.

I saw your post about moving on yo the doors. 👍

Update 10/23/24.

Got the passenger side door off. It was a struggle. Bottom hinge was rusted pretty badly. But nothing a little Blaster couldn’t loosen up and I got it off. Just started sanding and almost done.

I’ve got a question on the door latch assembly that I’m putting in the interior forum.

Just taking little bites at a time.

Doug

Look closely at the door panel where the hinge mounting bolts go through. On mine the sheet metal was deformed into the hinge bolt clearance leaving a slight ridge that grabs the hinge when you are trying to slide the door off.

Update 10/26/24
Thanks for that info. I’ll check it out when I’m ready to put the door back on.

Got the door sanded and painted yesterday. Installed the wing vent and window regulator today. So progress.
Also got the first window guide rail on. That took a bit of persuasion but done and drying now.

Then discovered I’m missing the inside garnish trim. Sooo bought a used set off eBay just a few minutes ago. Means I’ll have to break out the paint again and do the top part of the door since I’ll paint the garnish sand like the rest of the interior.

Next up is gluing the felt in. That should be fun getting that black adhesive all over. lol
Then I can try to put the glass in. I’m not sure how get it in when all the weatherstripping in.

I’m open to some sage advice on that one

You'll have to remove the wing window and its run channel to get the main glass in. The wing window goes in last.

Ugh. That was the hardest thing to get in. But thanks for the help.

Doug

Update 11/9/24

Got the door taken apart and installed the glass and put everything back together.

Installed the door a couple days ago and adjusted it best I could manage. Still has a gap on the bottom but it shuts solid and doesn’t rattle so good for now. Has a gap in the inside garnish trim and door around the wing vent. It looks like it took a lick somewhere in the past and never fixed. But I’m moving forward.

Also found I didn’t install the seal right on the hinge side of the door. Had to use a long swab and spread some more adhesive then taped in place. Looks ok now but going to leave it taped up for another day. The high humidity is making things take longer to cure and harden up than normal.

Sanded the rear headliner retainer and painted it. Curing now. Same for the windshield retainer.

Door panels are ready. I’ll install the passenger door while working on the drivers door which is painted and waiting on the vent window which is on back order.

Got the drivers door glass seated in the tract and to go.

In the meantime I’ll start on the cutouts on the rubber floor mat and get that installed.

More later as I get things done.

Doug

How are you going to fix those holes?

No idea Otto. For now it will be a conversation starter. Im just working to get it all put back together then I’ll see what comes to mind.

Also got the passenger side door back together. It’s not perfect or pretty but it works so good for now.

That passenger door looks great.

I'd take the driver door off and take it to a welder to see if he can fill the holes. You can do the body work after that and make it as good as the other one.

That is a great idea.
Doug

I would consider a body shop over just a welder. The welder may not have the experience from warping a door that already fits nicely. As Otto said, to save money, you can do the finish Bondo work.

Update 11/18/24
After wrestling with it for two days I got the weatherstipping on the windshield.. now waiting for rope and adhesive to come in to install it then move on to the rear window.

Doug

Looking good Doug. was just pondering those holes also. Passenger side looked solid. I wonder why somebody did that?

Update 12/5/24

No clue on the holes. I hate being negative but whoever did it was an idiot. lol.

Got the rope in and did I wrong on first try. Rope at top. Second go round was easy and took five minutes. Yea for small victories.

Rear window is definitely a killer to get the lock bead in. Took three tries to get a good method down then took my time. So that’s done. I’m tired or I would seal both up today but will wait for the next decently warm day for that.

Now just need the drivers side wing vent to get in stock and I can drive it around the block again.

Next project is the inside door windlace. From comments I’ve seen that is going to be another patience tester. But getting that done will let me ge the ceiling in. That will get me to putting in the visors and rear view mirror.

Many thanks for the advice and encouragement along the way.

Doug

Update 12/6/24
Seems I installed the weatherstripping with the slits at the top instead of the bottom. So when warms up enough I’ll pull it and redo the weatherstripping and reinstall it right.

Doug, on your wing vents: are you rebuilding them, having them rebuilt or getting new ones?
Looking good!!

S2

S2 I’m buying new. I looked at the process to refurb them and decided it was beyond my skill level and patience. That and not having a good setup for working on them. There was also the special tools needed.

I just ordered the drivers side vent assy off of eBay. It was back ordered from all the regular parts houses. So may be able to get the drivers side door done in a couple weeks.

D