I had the same issue, ground the rivets and punched them out then used grade 8 hardware to re-secure. Welding would probably be iffy, the bracket is cast something or other.
I would bolt it on with grade 8 bolts like was said. There is a reason it was riveted and not welded originally. It needs to flex a little and welds will over time crack.
I would bolt it on with grade 8 bolts like was said. There is a reason it was riveted and not welded originally. It needs to flex a little and welds will over time crack.
The reason was economics. Rivets were cheaper than welding processes. That and welding on the flange of a frame weakens it, which is what would be the reason for cracking. Welding should only be done on the vertical section of a frame, and judiciously if any.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Make sure that you are able to find bolts which are a tight fit between the non-threaded portion of the bolt and the holes in the frame and the bracket. Any slack in the holes will lead to these holes to become larger over time. The original rivets were installed under great pressure, resulting in a very tight fit. You will discover this when you try to pound them out even after drilling and grinding on them.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
