The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1957 235

It probably used to provide vacuum for something like vacuum windshield wipers or distributor vacuum advance. As long as it isn't leaking air into the manifold or needed for wipers, distributor, etc. I guess you could just leave it.

Thanks. Yep, no need for it. Its closed up all the way.
I doubt any air is leaking into. Pic of rockers.
Looks like on the inside of the cover this was making contact slightly.
Circled area looks to lack spring?

From your most recent pictures, I don't see how that one valve rocker would be contacting the valve cover unless the valve cover may be dented or a bit deformed in that spot???

Can you show us the wear spot on the inside of the valve cover???

The circled rocker arms "adjuster" is showing a significantly different setting compared to the other adjusters in the picture. Majority of the adjuster settings are showing about 3 to 4 exposed threads (not a spring) on the adjuster. The circled one is showing either none or barely 1 exposed thread, making that one valve adjustment much different than the others.

That may be because some one used a different length pushrod as a replacement for a bent/damaged one???

Only way to figure that out would be to remove that one and an adjacent pushrod and compare lengths.

Another step in the investigating process.

Dan

Ah, thanks. There is no telling what has been changed. Right now
it`ll crank and no leaks. So thats a good thing. You guys are the best!!!

Sounds like a race car!! It is sounding alot better. I am about to bleed the brakes
and its up and down the dirt road.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAfJHVHhDls

That valve system is WAY too noisy! Have you determined if it's got mechanical or hydraulic lifters, and has there been any valve adjusting done yet? By 1957, I believe all the 235 passenger car engines had hydraulics. Trucks stayed mechanical through the early 1960s, even though all the blocks were drilled for hydraulics.
Jerry

I have not determined if they are hydraulic or not.
Some of that is the inner fenders not bolted down I`ll admit.
There is still some adjustments that must be made. But it actually stopped smoking.
It was smoking bad enough I could not stay in the barn. Its like it went away on its own.
I made a carb mixture adjustment but thats it. I dont hear what I heard before,
which is a good thing.

Check the oil level. If no oil, no smoke.

C`mon now!! Oil level not changed. Too funny.

I did find something out . The alignment rings were interfering with the manifold sealing.
I had to check a couple times and after a new Remflex gasket , I took them out.
Sealed up now.

The alignment rings should not have been interfering with sealing. How do you believe they were?

After numerous times trying to seat them and making sure it was proper.
They were not allowing the manifold to get close enough.
IDK how it just was. The header and manifold were not originally together.
Maybe it was machined down.
Rings don`t need to be there. It is aligned.

They actually should be installed, but happy to hear you have yours aligned.

If the manifolds have been resurfaced to flatten them out, the recesses for the rings may be too shallow for the manifold to reach the head surface. The solution there would be to shorten the rings.

Hey thats a thought. It`s easy enough to put the pipe on a floor jack
with a large hose clamp around a couple foot long 1x4 sitting on the jack to remove the whole shebang.
Fuel and advance lines disconnected, along with throttle linkage. Remove bolts and roll it out.

I feel very lucky to have what I have. To me, at this point the engine runs great.
I cannot hear what I heard before. I ran it alot today. Runs cool, no leaks.
Starts with just a touch. 7 pumps cold and it starts right up. Little choke for 30 sec.
It`ll sit all winter but I be able to go out and crank it from time to time.

The other thing I was having trouble with was the idle and throttle linkage.
The problem was the wrap around rod linkage connector was too tight pulling the rod angle end
to the throttle arm on the carb. A washer and a Jesus clip gave the bend in the rod enough slop not to bind.

If you don't drive it in the winter, don't just go out and start it up once in a while and shut it off. You'd be better off draining the fuel and letting the engine sit idle for 4 months.

If you do start it, let it idle for30 or 40 minutes at least to get the blow by gasses and condensation out of it.

I have install the manifold assembly on a 216 before without alignment rings once. It sealed just fine, but I believe that one needs to be more lucky than good for that to happen. Those are manifolds are heavy, awkward, and you have to bend way over to get it into place while your other 3 hands put the bolts in.
These rings do not seal anything, so theoretically they are not needed.
Our fingers are not needed either, theoretically, but try to pick your nose with your feet. (No pics please.)

Does the '57 have a road draft tube or a pcv system? If draft tube, blow by gasses won't be removed while idling. Better to not start it at all.

A 57 could have either. There was an optional system available, but most were road draft tubes.

Specifically wondering about Guitplayer's truck.

Mine has a draft tube. Alignment is easy with the 2 knobs on each end of the block.
I can roll the whole shooting match(manifold header pipe) to one side while on the floor jack,
making wrestling that whole thing manageable. It can stay level with where it was in engine relation.
I have 2 I will let sit over the winter. Is the 327 the same as far as that regard of draining the
fuel and sitting? I let my 58 sit these past winters with no problems.

No engine should be started and turned off repeatedly. It just creates condensation which causes rust. You'll also create blow-by gasses which cannot be expelled.

Engines should be run up to operating temperature as would occur during normal driving.

You're better off running the engine until empty on non-ethanol fuel.

If I were able to go out to the hanger( an old military single aircraft hanger converted) and run the engine
to operating temperature at least once a week, would that suffice?
Hell or high water ,I plan on being around for awhile and go down there often.
But... all my engines I don`t use during this time , the fuel gets drained
and run dry.
thanks Otto for your help!!

Took that 235 for a spin. The 58 panel is just fine. Clutch , rear end
steers good. All the things I have not been able to check since I got it 3 years ago.
Pretty much a basket case then. Good to see it rolling.
Red letter day and banner year for the 58/59 panels.
First the 327 and now the 235. Don`t let health problems hold you down.

So glad to hear of the positive progress!!!

How about getting some pics and posting in the Stovebolt Driving Report thread???

I might be awhile before I can actually legally drive it.
I will for sure then.
Who needs turn signals? Everybody knows I live down that road.

Turn signals weren't mandatory on vehicles sold in the USA until 1968 so you're good. Hand signals are legal in every state.

Legal? Yes. Understood? Probably not.

Guitplayer,

Pictures of you "driving down your" driveway count for "driving" - LOL!

Don't quote me on this , but I think turn signals became mandatory in 1955...side marker lights were 1968.

Mike B

I don`t trust distracted drivers on cell phones to use hand signals much.
I did this year with the 59 when I had no turn signals.

Let’s not go down this road. We need to keep this thread on track.

Congrats on getting her driving, it’s truely a milestone!

I think I will have one or both of these rebuilt.
Then and now has a couple rebuild kits. I am wondering which one of the two
will work for these 2 pumps. Both are Made in USA .Off of a 1957 and 1958 235.
The larger one is a dual action? With the vacuum ports. Also the cam is pretty well worn.
https://www.then-now-auto.com/product/fpa-244-fuel-pump-kit/
https://www.then-now-auto.com/product/fpa-245-fuel-pump-kit/

Ok, no help with the fuel pump. I just bought a new cheap one. The 235 is prepped for the winter.
Gas tank drained and gas run thru the carb. New anti-freeze. Hopefully it will
sit fine over the cold. Might get 20 below.
Invested in a car dolly to move the other panel over so I can store
3 vehicles in the hanger.

Doing some research I came across rocker arm oil tube location and wondering if my
engine is more a 1958 than 1957?
http://1954advance-design.com/Web%20images/1958-60-rocker-oil/1948-63%20rocker-arm%20oil%20tube.html

The small pump seems to be the AC model that superceded the glass top model back in the 50's and used until the crimped model came out. I have one that still pumps just fine. Tom at Then and Now told me the only difference between it and the glass top one is the glass. The larger one was probably used on larger trucks that needed greater volume of vacuum for brakes etc.

I think I got real lucky on this 235. I`ve been in touch with the previous owner,
I asked when he thought the last time the engine was cranked.
Its been at least 20 years . It knocked some when I first ran it.
But now it sounds smooth as silk.

Otto is right on here. The fuel pump that came with the motor is a
Made in USA fuel pump and works fine. I was just afraid to put it on when
everything else is brand new. After a new one failed, I think I may use the original
and keep the Chinese made one for a backup.

After about a 3 month sleep, the 235 is awake and running!

I am going to change the oil for the first time since the engine has run in 20+years.
What weight would be best? 20-40w? or 10-30w? I put new oil in it when I cranked it last year.