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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 15
C
Junior Member
Junior Member
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 15
So far I have figured out that this truck is a 1955 chevy (#2550004068) with a 261 (#3837012) and a Gar Wood Hoist (#290363). Using the number off the frame I was unable to figure out what model it is, so if any one has a guess let me know. It has the two speed rear end and the drive shaft parking break, both of which work!

So far I changed the engine oil, but couldn't find a replacement filter.
Added 1.5 galons of hydrolic fluid to the hoist cylinder (no reservoir, just a fill plug on the side of the cylinder). I was able to pump fluid in with the bed down. Now it works great!
I checked the rear differential oil and it looks OK. I was nervous about opening it up since the rear diff cover is pretty bent up and I didn't know how easy it would be to seal it up again. I left it the way it was.
The tranismission oil looked horrible... like thick whipping cream. I drained/filled it two times and it still looked like light cream. Finally I decided to take the cover off the transmission and wash it off. I got the cover off (the hardest part was sliding the E-brake lever off the side of the cover) and things didn't look to bad - of course I don't really know what it was supposed to look like... but most of the gears still had square corners etc. I flushed it out and filled it back up with fresh oil and then tried to get the cover back on. I had messed with the gears a bit with the cover off and it took me three tries to get the yokes in the right place. The first two times it seemed like things were shifting OK, but when I ran the truck it was stuck in first gear the whole time! Finally I arranged everything so it was in reverse and it all went together fine. I have no idea why that worked, but it did.
I also found an "extra" gas line that had been tucked between the cab and the chassis. I found it because it was leaking gas all over the road! I traced it back to a small lever under the seat that must have been a switch for a second gas tank. When I turned the lever it stopped leaking, but I cut it off and pipeclamped a bolt into the end just in case. It would have been nicer to remove that line all together, but the other end looked like it would be difficult to get to and it was fairly rusted in place.
I just got back from a test drive and everything seemed to be working as it should! There is still a slight metal-on-metal sound at about 35-40mph in 4th gear, but I probably shouldn't go that fast anyway. I will probably take a little break and actually do some work with the truck for a while, but at some point I will try to address a few of the leaks. The worst of which is on the PTO - in the last picture.

Here are a few pictures:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/ccogg/front.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/ccogg/side.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/ccogg/inside.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/ccogg/engine.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/ccogg/transmission.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/ccogg/pto.jpg

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 15
C
Junior Member
Junior Member
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 15
O'yea, I think I found the source of the water that contaminated the transmission oil. There were three press fit "plugs" on the front of the transmission cover (one at the end of each of the three rods inside). The middle "plug" was long gone. I replaced it with a new one and crossed my fingers that I did the right thing!

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 482
O
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
O Offline
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 482
Oh yeah. Really nice truck! It's actually in much better shape than mine was when I first got it. Sounds like you are on your way to getting it going. How are the brakes?

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 15
C
Junior Member
Junior Member
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 15
The brakes are actually pretty good. I haven't run it loaded yet, but it stops real well. The previous owner said he had to top off the brake fluid a few times a year, but they feel fine and I have my eye on the fluid level. The e-brake doesn't grab super well, but it does slow the truck down...

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,233
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,233
If the steel and rubber brake lines are original, do yourself a favor and replace them ALL. Even if they look good they will rust from the insind out...don't wait till it's fully loaded to find out you have a problem. It's not hard to do and only takes a day or so to get it done. It will be the best thing you invest your time a money in.

Also, send your E-brake band out and have it relined. That's all you have as back-up if the main brakes fail.

Be safe.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD

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