I recently obtained a 1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3100 that had a partial restoration done to it (body and paint, interior, rebuilt engine, but no frame work).
The frame is partially rusted out where the front portions of the rear springs attach to it, so I'll need to address that, and the rear right spring is weak/sagging compared to the left rear.
The cab/front end seems to be tilted on the frame to the passenger's side quite a bit (sits 1.5" low on passenger's side compared to driver's side when measuring from the cab to the frame; very noticeable when looking straight-on at the front and seeing the relation between the bumper and grille). From what I can see (on the lift), there are only 3 points the cab/doghouse attach to the frame: 1 central point under the radiator core support, and two (one on each side) under the driver's and passenger's floorboard just ahead of the battery location. Am I missing some other body mounts somewhere?
This truck belonged to a farmer and some things were painted non-stock colors on the engine; the under-hood wiring is also a mess. Does anyone have any pictures of a 100% stock appearing engine compartment they can share so I can try to put this truck back to stock-appearing, at least?
Last edited by Peggy M; 09/28/20238:30 PM. Reason: added more info to the title
1948 Chevy 3100 Thriftmaster pickup Old skool engine swap ('54 pass 235) Four on the floor 12v conversion
As far as cab mounts, there should also be two cab mount shackles at the rear of the cab. The two toward the front of the cab tend to rust out. Mine were completely gone. That may be the issue with our cab.
Someone may be able to help you out with some pictures of the engine compartment, but you'll likely need more than just pictures to put it in order.
Welcome to the Stovebolt forums.
Last edited by klhansen; 09/28/20238:07 PM. Reason: removed MBA reference
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Welcome to Stovebolt and owning a piece of history! Luckily things for AD pickups are pretty much avail3. I'd suggest you get a factory assembly manual from one of the vendors. Fyi...ask questions in the most appropriate garage forums and we'll do the rest. We're here to help.
It appears you're located in Indiana which would put you in the Great Lake Bolters region so a "Mini-meet" with someone in the Midwest Bolters Association (MBA) might be a bit of an extra drive. Like all Bolter's from near or far, all are welcome any time as they may drop in to the "MBA"!
Maybe reach out in the Great Lake Bolters forum and let folks know you're new and might be interested in connecting with other local Bolters.
I will also 2nd Achipmunk's note about getting your self a copy of a 1947-54 Chevrolet Truck Factory Assembly Manual. Just use these words in a web search and you will find lots of vendors offering them.
Oh yeah, and ask specific questions you need help with in the Shop Area forums that best match up with your topic. You will get the best answers and help by keeping questions to a single topic to avoid any confusion on whats being discussed.
BTW - got any pictures of your "new to you" truck to post???
Dan
PS - Post your above asked questions again individually in the related Shop Area forum and folks will chime in soon to offer help and assistance.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Thanks for the replies. I have a 1947-54 Chevrolet Truck Factory Assembly Manual on the way as well as some other misc parts I need for this truck.
Concerning the wiring, the previous own(s) replaced the factory under-hood wiring with modern wiring which isn't taped up or wrapped with anything (it's a mess). I would would like to restore it to stock-appearing which is why I asked for pictures (thanks, papas52).
Here's some pictures of what I'm working with:
1948 Chevy 3100 Thriftmaster pickup Old skool engine swap ('54 pass 235) Four on the floor 12v conversion
Moving your post to the Electrical Bay, which will help with your wiring issues.
A 47-51 Truck Shop Manual will also have a wiring diagram for reference.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
That junction block on the firewall isn't stock. That's where the voltage regulator should be. Has it been converted to alternator? It should be 6 volts but who knows if it's been changed to 12v.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
That junction block on the firewall isn't stock. That's where the voltage regulator should be. Has it been converted to alternator? It should be 6 volts but who knows if it's been changed to 12v.
The truck has been converted to 12v and a modern GM alternator has replaced the factory generator. I was given a generator and voltage regulator with the truck; no idea if they are stock to the truck (6v) or 12v parts as I haven't examined them that closely (they are still in the box of parts I got with the truck).
1948 Chevy 3100 Thriftmaster pickup Old skool engine swap ('54 pass 235) Four on the floor 12v conversion
That junction block on the firewall isn't stock. That's where the voltage regulator should be. Has it been converted to alternator? It should be 6 volts but who knows if it's been changed to 12v.
That "junction box" is actually stock for "48. It is the fuse box. It is just missing the cover.
Last edited by 52Carl; 09/30/202311:48 PM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
That’s where my 47 fuse block was located. Just left and below the harness grommet. My truck had all the cloth covered wire still intact when I bought it. Although very stiff and bare in some spots. As you can see there were no other holes in my firewall. I mounted a new fuse block where the old one was.
That’s where my 47 fuse block was located. Just left and below the harness grommet. My truck had all the cloth covered wire still intact when I bought it. Although very stiff and bare in some spots. As you can see there were no other holes in my firewall. I mounted a new fuse block where the old one was.
You are correct fine sir. I stand corrected, and have edited my previous post to reflect that.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
