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Joined: Sep 2023
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'Bolter
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Hi All, new to the site and to the older inline 6. I have a 1946 Chevy 3100 truck project that came with a running engine and shifting transmission. When I researched the casting numbers on the block(3769925) and the head(3836850) I see that I have a 261 cid manufactured between 1958 and 1962 if all the charts are correct. Further research shows that the 261 has a fully pressurized oil system and should have an oil filter on it. Long story short, this engine doesn't have an oil filter on it but has a 1/2 NPY fitting to the right of the exhaust(oil filter return) that is oily and has the ports and dowel hole left of the exhaust(full pressure to the filter) but doesn't look like they have been used. Looks like the engine has been running this way for awhile(by the looks of the plug being eroded) so am I okay to keep running it or will it trash the engine because of lack of oil? I will try to attached some pictures. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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1946 Chevy 1/2 ton
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton donor
Early 1947 GMC 1/2 ton long bed donor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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The port with a dowel in it (red arrow on your pic attached) is the vacuum port in the intake manifold. That would be routed to a vacuum wiper motor (assuming you have one), not an oil filter.
The port indicated by the yellow arrow is the pressure port for the gauge in the instrument panel and a filter if installed.
The port indicated by the green arrow appears to be the return port for an oil filter, but plugged with a recessed plug that someone tried to remove (unsuccessfully) with pliers or a pipe wrench.

But a filter connected to those two oil ports would be a bypass filter, just filtering a portion of the oil being sent to the engine. So running without a filter wouldn't kill the engine. There are lots of engines that are running around without filters. You just have to change the oil on a regular basis to drain the crud out.

Welcome to the Stovebolt forums.
You should go over to the Welcome Centre and tell us a bit about yourself and your truck (how you came to own it, etc.) Post pics of the truck as well.
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Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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Thanks for the response.
The vacuum wipers were disconnected by the previous owner. Thanks for the heads-up on the dowel port use. Was wondering where they were to be connected.
Being that the engine is much newer than the truck, I wasn't sure its original oil filter configuration. The serial number on the block flat by the distributor is not there. The surface is ground flat with no paint. Thinking that may have been done during a rebuild or the install into the truck. Not sure.
If I wanted to install an oil filter, it would need the green arrow port opened up by drilling it out. Guess that will need to wait for the next rebuild.
Thanks again klhansen.


1946 Chevy 1/2 ton
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton donor
Early 1947 GMC 1/2 ton long bed donor
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Renaissance Man
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No Numbers on the block usually indicates that you have a GM manufactured replacement engine. They did not stamp those.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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If you scrape the crud out of the hole just above the green arrow in the third pic you will find the end of a dowel pin just below the block casting. If that pin was driven in at the factory it would have had large lines going to a full flow filter in canister mounted to the intake manifold.
This engine was not set up for flow flow filter. If you have the pin driven in you Must have external line to bring oil to the galley.


BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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You can always just not install a oil filter a change your oil more often. Thats the way they did it when these trucks came off the factory floor. The oil filter was an option.

Last edited by Phak1; 09/19/2023 12:05 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by Phak1
You can always just not install a oil filter a change your oil more often. Thats the way they did it when these trucks came off the factory floor. The oil filter was an option.

Was there a high-pressure 261 that did not originally come with an oil filter?
(a full-flow filter?)

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'Bolter
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Yes. I have a 55 1st design 261 (high mount coolant pump) that is not set up for filter, no provision for one.
All later 261 have the ports, the determining factor is if the pin (above the pipe plug the green arrow is pointed to in last pic) is driven in it blocks the galley passage in the block so oil must come out of the hole that plug is in, out to filter & back to block via port with yellow arrow in 2nd pic.
If the pin was driven in no oil would get to galley without external connection between these 2 ports.


BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
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Posts: 11
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Thanks for all the comments.
I am going to put an oil pressure gauge in the port with the yellow arrow of picture 2. If logic is correct, with the dowel not diverting the oil flow to the green arrow hole of the 3rd picture, I should have good pressure there because otherwise that hole would be getting return oil from the oil filter. Going to take a few days to get to that point of cranking the engine over again.
Picked up some original 41 Chevy 2 piece windshield glass today. Will try not to crack it.
Thanks again all.


1946 Chevy 1/2 ton
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton donor
Early 1947 GMC 1/2 ton long bed donor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,363
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'Bolter
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I'd pull the distributor & turn the oil pump to prime the system.


BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 854
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'Bolter
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If you plan to use the truck for any length of time, I'd install at least a bypass filter. With one, and regular maintenance, engines stay relatively clean. Without one they get pretty dirty inside. There are hydraulic-oil filters that are suitable for bypass duty that do a pretty good job. Then there is the Franz toilet-paper filter that works well too. Either is better than the elements available for the factory bypass filter. Those are too coarse to do much but bleed off oi pressure.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
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'Bolter
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Thanks for input. Been gone camping w/o internet so couldn't get any posts. If I was to install a bypass filter on my engine, I would need to remove the plug and move the dowel in picture 3(green Arrow), correct. Or is there another place that I could dump the oil back into the engine? Thanks


1946 Chevy 1/2 ton
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton donor
Early 1947 GMC 1/2 ton long bed donor

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