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| | | | Joined: Jun 2023 Posts: 25 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2023 Posts: 25 | Howdy!
I have an odd issue noticeable when starting my truck (1955 3100, 235 engine, 6 volt negative ground system). Upon pressing the starter button, I may turn the engine a few seconds and it will not start, then as soon as I let my foot off the starter it starts up. This seems to indicate that not enough voltage is getting to my ignition circuit when the starter is running. The battery is charged sufficiently, the battery cables are of proper size for 6 volt. Where should I look for remedy?
Thanks! | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,031 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,031 | Check the battery posts for cleanliness and also the connections to the starter, ground, etc. The load of the starter running is dropping the voltage too low to fire the plugs. As soon as the load drops (when you take your foot off the starter pedal), the voltage pops up high enough to fire the ignition system.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 2,445 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 2,445 | Kevin is probably right, but if doing his cleanup does not fix the problem connect a #12 wire directly from battery + to the + side of the coil and see if it "fixes" your problem. If so, problem is in the primary ignition wiring.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,771 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,771 | Have someone else crank the engine while you check the voltage at the + side of the coil wiring. It should not be below 4.3 volts with the starter turning. Then check the battery voltage at the posts (not the terminals) while cranking. If the battery voltage is below 4.5 with the starter turning recharge or replace the battery. The voltage at the coil should be within .1 to .2 volts of battery post voltage. If it's not, find the high resistance connection(s) between the battery and the coil- - - -ammeter, ignition switch, wiring connectors, etc.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Confirm you have an on/off original key switch and no dash push button.....and no wiring or replacements have just happened.
As Jerry and Bill indicate and are checking with you..... The key switch sends 6V to the coil and the foot switch turns the starter. I would first turn key on a check voltage at coil pos. No cranking on that test. If you have battery voltage there, proceed with Jerrys tests.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2023 Posts: 25 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2023 Posts: 25 | KLHansen was right. Turns out, though my battery to frame ground strap was very clean, frame to engine ground strap was very corroded. Cleaned everything up there and now the starter turns AND truck starts. Thanks for the input all!
Last edited by G.Curtis; 09/17/2023 10:03 PM. Reason: Typo
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