Got my cab back from paint and need to take old cab off frame and put new cab on it. Need to know how many friends i need to make this month. cab will be bare no seat ,no doors no gastank. but engine stillin frame and bed is on also. Think lift and steep over frame to get it off and same to put new one on. any ideas would be appreciated.
If you have an engine hoist you can do it singlehanded. You can rig a 2x6 on the end of the hoist arm and lift it through the foot openings.
Like this:
Last edited by klhansen; 09/13/20232:41 AM. Reason: added photo
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Here’s what my set up looks like. It made setting the cab a one man job even though I had several guys drinking beer and giving me “pointers” as I worked.
interesting. wonder if i put eyebolts thru the mount points if it would work. or a 2x4 frame to lift from. Thanks for the idea.
If you mean eyebolts thru the floor, that might work, but the higher the lift point the better, for stability. The upside down "U" beam that LAJones48 used is overkill IMO, but more stable than my single 2x6.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I wonder about it tipping. first was gona loop straps thru cab and lift from roof. the old cab is Very rusty and am afraid of ripping the roof of. new cab hate to hurt paint. still thinking of a plan
I wonder about it tipping. first was gona loop straps thru cab and lift from roof. the old cab is Very rusty and am afraid of ripping the roof of. new cab hate to hurt paint. still thinking of a plan
I doubt it's that rusty that the roof would come off. If it was, the roof would probably be laying on the seat already. Lay some carpet on top of the wood beam to protect your paint under the door opening. You'll notice I put a ratchet strap over the roof to secure things. You could do that with some padding under it. I used that piece of cardboard just under the ratchet itself to keep from gouging the metal. With it supported from the top of the door openings it isn't going to tip. You can adjust the position of the beam to get it level, and it will stay there.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
In 1957 a conventional cab weight is given as 650 lbs, this is from the salesman hand book section 12 page 44. The LCF cab is given as 634 lbs. Since the 58 and 59 cab is very similar the weight should be very close to this.
The cab will not tip using the 2x6 set up, just make sure to have boards attached so the lift boards stay centered. Lifting at the mount points not a good idea.
Last edited by Truckrolet; 09/29/20238:17 AM.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins