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Haha.. thanks, bartamos. I will take your advice

My nature is to also be quite cautious. Most of the time anyway.

I'll work on it again tomorrow and maybe install it when time permits.

I'll keep you posted with anything that turns up or ultimately how it goes.

Just a quick reply that the casting code pictured "3837004" is noted to be a 1955-57 235 with the large water pump hole according to my "US" engine data. Can't confirm if Canadian 235's used the same casting number???

The "C252537" serial number would indicate a Canadian made engine, as that format wasn't used in US 235's. Hopefully someone with more Canadian engine knowledge will chime in and provide more details.

As you are indicating a "Victoria, BC" location, it would make sense that you have a Canadian 235.

If you look for the "casting date code" info on the side of the block directly above where the starter mounts, that may better pinpoint when it was built. Maybe post another pic when you get the chance.

Hope this answers your question.

Dan

Nice truck. Nicer dog.

Thanks ..but it's an old pic. Sadly, Polly passed some years back ;-(

Thank you for following up, Dan. It was rebuilt up-Island in '86 from what I was told.
Those numbers were on the block, right behind where the starter mounts onto the bell housing.
But I will look some more...

So Dan, I scanned both sides of the block. The only other detail I came up with is what looks like the letter "M"..

Well well well ....success!

The 12 volt starter was reassembled today and installed in the truck (as per bartamos suggestions).
After running some test runs with the plugs out it engaged well. And retracted as it should.

After connecting the battery, I gave it a full start and ignition check and it fired right up.

Bartamos, I did forget to polish up the end of the pinion gear. But it seems to engage ok regardless.

Hopefully this will be the end of base starting problems.

Sure was a good learning experience re: the engine vintage -- 6v vs 12v ring gear.
Looking back it now seems logical of what the previous owner was trying to accomplish some 25 years ago.
Perhaps he knew that the engine was not a 6 volter. Only wish I'd known

Thanks guys for your advice and challenges to my questions



**

Now, while the hood was open and the sun shining of the front of the engine, it reminded me of another issue ..but not serious.
Have a look at the second pic ...

Notice that the fan is not centered to the radiator, the blade tips actually fly below it.
Does this have something to do with the engine being a later edition than the rest of the cooling system?
Obviously, all 235s and not the same, huh

I can imagine that overall cooling is affected. Although I've never experienced any overheating.
(I realize this is not the right forum for this new issue, but thought I'd ask anyway)

If it cools it cools. The lower area of radiator is cooler anyway. Fan only good a low truck speeds. Put the dip stick back in. Nut missing on front of manifiold. All is good. Nice work.

Yes. There is a water pump relocation plate you can use to raise the fan. But if the system works, why mess with it.

Makes sense about the overall cooling. (which reminds me, with Winter coming I gotta look at fixing the heater core -- it's leaking a tad onto the PS foot mat)

You have eagle-eyes there. I snapped the shot just before replacing the dipstick
Manifold ...it is a short location stud (no threads).

Now I think I recall some mention of a kit for the readjustment of the waterpump and fan. At the time I guess I didn't think it important enough as a daily driver.

The guys who installed my engine lowered the radiator instead.

...and it happened ..sort of unrelated: while waiting to install the starter, our pond 'fencer' had packed it in and a heron or otter went after the biggest goldies.
And raccoons got to our lumber pile: it was uncovered and got soaking wet.

But at least the success of the truck starting saved the day. Now it can be moved out of the weather.

I think my is at it's limits to the lower welded cross support.

Never- - - -ever- - - - -bolt down the ends of a stovebolt exhaust manifold- - - - -the hole around the locator pin is oversized to allow for heat expansion. Bolting it tight will make it crack.
Jerry

Couldn't even if I wanted to ...not long enough and no threads.
That must have been my hint at the time.

The "M" in the side of the block indicates it was cast in Canada by McKinnon industries in ST. Catherines, Ontario, a division of GM Canada

Good confirmation of country of origin -- thank you.

Now if I can just determine when this engine was originally built..

The pins are threaded into the head- - - - -some people replace them with bolts. Bad idea!
Jerry

You guys are drifting off into the weeds here. Please start a new post for a new topic. Thanks!

Meh, perhaps I should start a new short thread regarding engine numbers inquiry..??

I think that would be a good idea and please start that thread in the engine section...you'll get more (and better) attention than in the electrical bay.

55 started a new thread HERE as suggested by Jon G.