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Bond Villain
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Can someone send me a picture, or describe, the correct/factory way to connect the throttle cable (not the accelerator linkage, but the dash throttle button/cable) to the carburetor? I have the cable clamped in the holder and trimmed to fit, but am not sure how to actually connect it.

I could figure out a way easily enough, but I wanted to do it factory correct. The original cable broke from fatigue failure and the end that was connected to the carb is gone.

This is for my '49 3800 with the 235 splasher/Carter W-1.

Thanks,
John


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Not sure if original or not, but I've simply passed the throttle cable wire through the cotter key hole in the throttle linkage. Then use an adjustable cable stop, the little brass thing with a screw in it, on the end.
This way the throttle linage is free to travel as needed, and the throttle cable can tug on it if you pull the knob out of the dash.

Grigg


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'Bolter
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That is the original method, I believe. I couldn't find a suitable cable stop so I used the inside of an electrical connector.


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Bond Villain
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Thanks for the input.


~ John

"We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"

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That's it Jon! Looked kind of bogus to me John when I first saw it but that is correct and it seems to work just fine that way.

dg


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Originally Posted by kingisomer



this is the same way my 3100 is set up and the 3800 that are both the original set ups. although both my trucks have a clip that secures the throttle linkage to the carb linkage without the use of the cable, that way if the cable were to break there is no chance of the linkage coming apart.


Last edited by Yelostn78; 02/25/2010 3:48 AM.



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I know this is a really old thread, but I have a similar question.. My existing linkage from the floor throttle doesn't have a place to attach the dash throttle cable... how can I modify this to hold the cable?
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Throttle.png (79.25 KB, 128 downloads)

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Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator)
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Can you take a pic from further away? It looks lile you might have a cable connection on the edge of the image.
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There's supposed to be a bracket at the top of the carburetor- - - -the same one that holds the choke cable- - - -where the throttle cable is anchored. Then the center cable goes down to the bellcrank and threads through the hole in the linkage where the cotter pin is now. Call me.
Jerry


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The linkage bracket on the carb is there to hold the cable in place, but I have no place to connect the cable on the throttle arm (I dont believe there is any hole in the piece (shown in the picture ) where the floor throttle arm attaches. I am assuming I need to use one of those NAPA add on brackets with a cable stop?

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As Jerry said, remove the cotter pin and replace it with the throttle cable and cable stop. It's really the only way the cable can be attached.

Place the cable stop about 1/8" below the hole so there is no pressure on the throttle when the button is pushed all the way in.
Attachments
IMG_20211013_165322.jpg (90.3 KB, 110 downloads)
IMG_20211013_163436_1CS.jpg (67.82 KB, 110 downloads)


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
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Buds53,

Can you provide more info on what truck/engine/carburetor you are working on please??? headscratch

Would also help if you provide a little larger picture of the carb and linkage.

Using your Bolter title, I figure you may be working on a 1953 truck and from what can be seen in the pic, possibly a 235 with a Rochester B?

The throttle linkage in your picture seems to be from a later truck/engine (maybe a later 230/250/292???) as it doesn't match with diagrams found in this later on-topic conversation thread that show a 235 with a Rochester B.

Hopefully with more input from you we can figure out what you have/need. thumbs_up

Dan


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Is there suppose to be a washer between the cable and the carb arm? I don’t recall ever seeing a washer on the throttle linkage in that position in any documents or any of my trucks.
Only the throttle rod through the carb arm with the cable.
-s

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I put the washer there to keep the cable stop from hanging up on the shoulder of the throttle rod, which it did occasionally causing a higher rpm at idle.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
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Yeah I’ve also had that problem
And considered doing the same as you did

But for now instead I have only increase the gap between the cable stop and the throttle rod and it seems to be okay now
Also make sure the cable stop is rotated to minimize hooking up
-s

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I kept repositioning the stop but it always seemed to find its way back. I was afraid to keep messing with it for fear of weakening or breaking the cable at the set screw.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Its a 1953 3600, but you are right - the 235 engine was updated with a later year 235 - casting indicates from 1958 to 1962.... but my problem is that the throttle rod is attached to a barrel sort of connector, and from what I can tell there is NO cotter pin to connect the cable to... look at this picture below. Unless the hole is being hidden under the part where the linkage attaches to the carb?
Attachments
Throttle pictiure.png (84.3 KB, 77 downloads)

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You need to eliminate that clip and drill a hole as close to the end of that shaft for the cable wire to pass thru and set it up like Otto described

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Looks like there might already be a hole for the cable to pass thru. Just need to do it and add a cable stop. Is there a cable housing bracket above? Here’s my setup.
Attachments
IMG_0417.jpeg (212.1 KB, 64 downloads)


Craig

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Buds53,

As others have mentioned, there may already be a cable hole in that throttle rod connector. Should be easy enough to disconnect the clip, pull the rod connector back from the carb and see if it's there.

If no hole, the connector can be removed form the rod and one drilled towards the outer end of the pivot post. Just make sure the drilled new hole is parallel to the existing rod hole as the cable needs to "pull" straight up in alignment with the rod movement so it doesn't bind.

Let us know what you find.

Dan


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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