The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 35 Chevy Fire Truck

I just recieved all the wood for the old beast. Man, what a job this is turning out to be. I can appreciate those of you who have been doing this for awhile.
Anyone have a contact for the fasteners/hardware that will be needed to reassemble this project. J. Rodman suggested Rex Weber, but the phone is always busy.

Most all the fasteners are standard hardware, wood screws #8 & #10, carriage bolts, and machine screws. If you want to invest in stainless steel find a good boat shop for hardware. Some of the wood tee nuts you won't be able to find (make your own). The most difficult part of putting in new wood is the doors. You will have remove the steel bracket on the internal hinge side by drilling out two rivets and many spot welds. This necessary to install the fasteners on the pieces of horizontal wood above and below the window. Jim Rodmans wood pieces are not the same as the original pieces when it comes to installing fasteners. The holes in the floor for the rear cab mounting are for the 1/2 ton and not for the 1.5 ton; you will have to drill new holes. There are many tricks to installing. I am in the process of writing an instruction manual for rewooding the 34-35 trucks.

John Boy the first thing you will want to do is to seal all the wood pieces use a sealer you can paint enamel over. Seal all sides and end grain. It it easiest to assemble if you do it in sub-assemblies. Do cab back first assemble that to the rear door posts and floor sills use the seat frame to get the right spacing. Assemble the front door posts to the cowl upper cross piece before installing into the cowl. Door front posts are inserted from the bottom to the top of the cowl panel. Atttach cowl to sills, mount doors after assembly to frt door post. Align door with frt & rear post before installing top panel. The resrt is in the details.

John boy the rear corners of the cab must fit the wood correctly before fitting the cab back pieces you will have to use a belt sander to make them fit on the curves keep trying until the back panels overlap correctly. Lots of fun!!!

35 trucker
You are good info. I wil continue to need your experience. What sealer did you use?

I have used DEFT clear wood sealer, 3 coats, and I have painted over it with both lacquer and enamel auto paints.

Thanks....I am still trying to learn how to put photos on this system. I will prevail :o

35 Trucker
I wasn't able to save much wood due to decay. However, both bottom cab sills are intact enough to HOPEFULLY, craft the new wood so as to keep the same curves. I assume this is what you refered to above?

John I can send you pictures and /or some patterns for yoour wood parts. The sills are the long floor pieces on the outboard sides that run from the cowl to the rear of the cab. I would make sure that all the wood in the cab are sealed on all sides & ends. All the floor pieces were painted black on the top side in the cab floor and seat frame. Door posts were body color on the door opening edges.

35 Trucker
Pictures would be great!! I will send you my address via email.

There was a very recent thread about Wood Finishing in the How to build a Bed forum.

John Boy I hope you got the pictures OK? Let me know if you don't understand them or need more info!. Jim

They came thru loud and clear. Now all I have to do is get-r-done.

Mike E....thanks, I will follow it up.