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| | | Forums66 Topics128,012 Posts1,055,317 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 483 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 483 | Hey Everybody,
Got a quick question. Working on the Gray Ghost (1953 3100) and am prepping the driver side inner and outer cowl panels. Since this is a later model AD truck, there is no vent on the driver side and consequently, there is no access to the inside of those panels once they are welded in place. So, now's the time to protect that new metal! My question: is primer and paint enough or is there something else that I could/should do? Once it's welded, it's all over but the crying.... Suggestions? TIA! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2020 Posts: 438 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2020 Posts: 438 | The welding in process will compromise part of whatever you put on the inside beforehand, you might just prime/paint the areas that won’t be welded on, or…. In the British car world Waxoyl has been the go to product forever, after welding pop small holes as needed from the interior to introduce in the product.
Chuck
Hank: 46 Chev 1/2ton shortbed 2023 Miata RF Club | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 10,997 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 10,997 | I would definitely epoxy primer before welding together. Although it wasn't done at the factory, and lasted (mostly) 70 years without anything on the interior of the parts.
Chuck's suggestion is a potential solution to future rust, although even without that, it'll likely last your lifetime.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 483 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 483 | So...I may have jumped the shark, this time.... I've actually already primed and painted the inside areas that won't be welded. I'm assuming that applying epoxy primer over that primer and paint wouldn't work. So I either grind it off and use the epoxy or roll with basic primer and paint. I'd never heard of the waxoyl product and looked it up. Turns out there are kits for enclosed areas like I'm dealing with. A little pricey, but designed for my application. Accessing the area through the hinge pockets would be super easy! I am wondering if the wax ultimately migrates through the seams and weep hole? If so, do you have to reapply the waxoyl periodically to maintain the protection? I'm still a couple of days away from permanently mounting the panels, so any other suggestions are still welcome! Thanks, everyone! | | | | | Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 1,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 1,351 | I do not know how it will work in the long run but I coated the areas that were going to be welded with weld through primer. I figured that it would protect the areas that are not actually welded.
For several other areas that can not be accessed I have used an Eastman product that is marketed for the inside of frame box sections. It comes with a long flexible tube and multi-direction spray nozzle. The product is pretty thin and seeps out of every crack and crevice. I had not thought about using it in the cowl area but it may not be a bad idea. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 483 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 483 | WI,
I use the weld thru primer where the actual welds go. I haven't gotten that far in the panel prep yet, but I'll grind off the EDP that comes on the replacement parts, coat that area with the weld through primer, then mark and drill the holes for the plug welds. My hope is that the weld through primer won't completely burn away and offer some protection surrounding the weld site. I use the SEM Copperweld and am pleased with how it works. OBTW, you have to coat both pieces that will be welded, per the manufacturer. Marking and drilling first also works. I'll look into that product for the cavity. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 10,997 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 10,997 | You could use Robert's (MPandC) method for doing plug welds. He uses epoxy primer on both parts, the drills holes for plug welding in one panel, clamps the panels together, then uses a drill bit ground flat on the tip thru the holes to take the primer off the non-drilled panel. MIG welding needs clean metal, and the burn-off of the epoxy is minimized.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 |
Last edited by Peggy M; 09/02/2023 7:30 PM. Reason: fix embedded YT video :)
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 483 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 483 | | | |
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