The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1949 Chevy Panel Truck

Drip Rails

Saturday I knocked out the drip rails. It was a straight forward install. I fit it in place using sheetmetal screws and trimmed it to length. I had to split the rail slightly in the front where it went over a body line and then re-weld the split. After fitting it up and trimming as required I removed the screws and drilled additional holes along the perimeter to plug weld it to the cab I ground the plug welds down and shot some primer on it. Next up.... dialing in the door gaps around both doors. I figure it will take a day for each door....knock on wood.

Door Gaps

Lately I've been chipping away at the door gaps. First I needed to pull out the door skin on the RHS a little where the weld on the lower patch panel shrunk a little. A few spotwelded studs and I was able to get it hopefully within a thin coat of filler.

Then I moved on to the LH door gaps. I went with a 3/16 target gap all around the door. For the front and rear door below the window I had to slit the cab along the edge and re-weld it back with spacers opening up the gap to where it was under 3/16.

Next I had to deal with the gaps along the window frame which were a little more sporadic. With the drip-rail installed that limited the modifications to be on the door instead of the cab. I spent some time identifying where the door needed material added and where it needed to be trimmed by running the 3/16 spacer along the gap to identify the transition areas. Then I added material needed in the areas where door needed extending by tack welding along the edge as required. Once I had the material added and ground down then I went along the edge marking the edge with a line to be trimmed to achieve the gap. Once the edge was cut then in a few areas the folded edge was separated into two pieces (since I removed the area that wrapped around) so I had to weld that area and file the edge back to the intended trim.

Then I moved on the RH door. The fwd edge of the door required half of the cab to split and the other half needed the edge of the door built up. On the aft edge all the modifications were done by grinding the door edge down and welding the edge where it broke thru the pinched area. I still have to do the upper window surround on the RH door but it looksto be about like the LH side..... a little welding and a little grinding.

Good lookin' stuff!

Thanks.... just trying to push the ball toward the goal bit by bit.

Door Panels

I wanted to keep the look of the stock door interior panels but I really dislike the cardboard panels. I decided to try and fab a door panel that was somewhat like the stock panel but a little more durable. The mounting a fitment needed to be the same so I went ahead and bought aftermarket cardboard door panels and the stainless trim that goes around the perimeter. I wanted the cardboard panels to use as a pattern and my plan is to use them later as a replacement on my tattered ones on my '48.

I also decided to try and use aluminum sheet for the base paneland covering it with some type of vinyl. Since I had screwed up one set of seat covers on an earlier portion of the build, I dug out the covers and figured I would try and use them. After miking the groove of the stainless trim and the thickness of the seat material it looked like the aluminum sheet needed to be .062 or so thick.

First I checked the cardboard panels to the doors (because you never can assume anything will fit out of the box) and once I received the .062 alum sheet I traced the outline on the sheet. I then cut the sheet and drilled the holes to dry fit them to the door and checked that the trim would indeed fit around it.

Next I bonded the vinyl from the seat cover to the panels using 3M Super Trim spray adhesive and let it dry. Then I used a razor and an Exacto knife to cutout all holes in the panel. Then I shoe-horned the stainless trim around the panel assembly. I have to add that getting the trim around the panel was a little bit of challenge without peeling off the cover. I was able to get it installed but I ended up having to fab a new splice clip (the stainless clip at the bottom of the trim) that was a little wider than the stock one since the trim was constantly slipping out from under the clip as I attempted to install it on the door. If I had another set of hands to hold it while I installed the screws then I might not have needed to fab the wider clip but it was the route that was easiest at the time since I had the stainless on hand.

With the panel installed I quickly discovered that repro panel didn't have the holes for the armrest so my new panel didn't have them. So I took two 1/4-20 hex bolts and ground a point on the end of the threads. I then removed the panel assembly and installed the pointed hex bolts in the armrest holes, with the pointed end out, and re-installed the door panel assembly. With the panels in place I took a 2x4 and put it on the door panel to protect it and hit the panel with a dead-blow hammer to pierce/mark the hole locations on the backside of the alum panel. Then I removed the panel and drilled the holes necessary for the armrest and re-installed the panels.

The panels fit nicely but I did notice that the door mechanism is a little bound up by the panel. The door latches, exterior and interior, both operate but the latch handles do not self-return. My guess is that the interior door link (Altman aftermarket) is rubbing on the back of the aluminum panel. I assume the cardboard panel would just flex out of the way but the rigid aluminum panel does not. I will need to remove the panel and see if I can identify where it is rubbing. I may need to add some type of local spacer to the door frame to form or guide the panel around the link area or use the old knee brake to tweak the flat panel a bit to clear ...but that will be for another day.

Another quick thing to note, the aftermarket interior door latch handles fit like garbage. It is so loose that I don't think that I can make it work. The splines do not agree with the aftermarket latch mount. I pulled an original handle off my '48 to see which aftermarket part was the culprit and it fit quite well. So I will probably buy some original handles and have them re-chomed on down the road.

Looks to be something missing. Or do you plan to leave the window in one position.

The hole for the window crank is cut in the aluminum and I slit the vinyl but the mechanism is not installed yet.

Running Boards

I never really cared for how the stock running boards interfaced with the lower cab and bed. I always felt that the top edge of the boards were way too low, leaving too a large gap that was filled in with a rubber filler. Since I have cut this truck up so much then maybe I could address this area by doing a little more metallic surgery. The interface with the rear fender also needed a little tweaking so I decided to fix it.

After taking several measurements along the running board it looked like raising or extending the boards by about 1” would leave a gap of 3/8 to a half an inch between the cab and boards. So I cut a 1 inch strip of new metal the length of the board and then split the board along a straight line. I also had to split the rear of the board vertically so I could kick the mounting surface back a little to match the rear fender. Earlier I had to fab the lower fwd portion of the fender so it may not be 100% to the stock contour but the easier route was to mod the running boards to match. I will also need to go back and massage the left rear fender a bit to clean up some gas on it but that will done later.

Once the strip was tacked into place then the slow process of filling in between the tacks was the next step, being careful not to overheat the running board and warping it. It was about 10 linear feet of welding per board and patience is not one of my strong suits but I was able to weld a bit and work on a few other things between welds to keep the heat down. Then I had to grind down the welds while keeping the heat down. I finished one board on Saturday and primed it and tack welded the other one. I'll have to finish the welding on it another day.

You attention to details is impeccable!

Back to the Future (Doors)

During the dog days of summer I have been tinkering with a few small things on the truck as well as a big pain... the doors. I had the doors all mounted and decided to pull them back off and go thru them again and refine them a bit and fix a few ankle bitter issues. I had a few stripped bolts on the door hinges that I oversized to 7/16 fine threads that ended up working about as well as I could have hoped....now I just have to remember which ones are oversized.
While the doors were off I went ahead and Ospho'ed the inside that had some surface rust after I had hit it with a wirebrush to knock it down as much as possible. I then painted the inside with some rust inhibitor using a 360 degree wand. I also added a few drain holes at the bottom of the door since the bottom section was replaced with all new metal.

I also thought the return spring on the Altman latch wasn't up to par so I then cut a slot on the inner door panel and added an additional tension spring to the door latch lever. I still think I need to tweak it a little more...the spring needs to be stretched a little more than what it is in the closed position. I will cut the tab I welded onto the lever and reposition it to increase the tension a bit before I button up the door further.

I then fiddled with the felt channel around the window. It was “all clamps on deck” and I was able to work the felt into place by slowly clamping it and straightening the kinks as I went. I couldn't really get my arm down into the door to mark the length so in order to cut it to the proper length I worked it from one side to the next with one end placed into the channel clip and worked it to fit the door curves with clamps and put a piece of tape on the felt that aligned with the upper window seal. Then I removed the felt and measured from the same spot on upper window seal to the channel clip at the bottom and then transferred that measurement to the felt (minus 1/8 of an inch just because). That seemed to work out ok or at least better than trying reach into the door and mark it blindly. My arms already look like I had a fight with a bobcat reaching in and out of the inside of the door so anything that keeps me from needing to do that will be the path I take.

I got the RH door mounted back in place and then went ahead and mounted the inner trim piece around the window. I had already welded up the existing small holes in the door for the trim earlier and ground then down flush so I had to re-drill new holes for the trim because they didn't line up with the new aftermarket trim.

I hope to get the final adjustments done on the latch return spring and get the LH door up to the same completion level (mounted) so that I can finally move on from these Rubik's cube doors. I've spent 2 months working on these doors so I need them done and in my rearview mirror so I can move along to the next task.

I have been following along for a while and now it’s time to add my two cents worth. Your determination to get everything “just so” is admirable. Your attention to detail and ability to not accept “pretty good” or “good enough”, elevates you to heights most of us can only dream of. To return to something that you have done again and again until it’s satisfactory is something we should all be able to do. I have learned a lot from you and am looking forward to seeing the finished truck.

Thanks for the compliments. I just try to keep moving the ball closer to goal each week or so.

Door Assembled & Rear Wheelwells

This past weekend I went ahead and assembled the cab doors and rehung them. I still have to add the glass and the felt channel but I'll have to do this after it is painted. I also pulled the inner window molding and then bonded the fuzzy strip on the bottom of it with some panel adhesive that I had left over. I used some spring clamps and some wire ties to hold it in place until it cured.

Earlier in the build I had patched the rear inner wheelwells with new sheet-metal that I had rolled a bead to match the existing factory bead along the edge. Unfortunately the brake calipers hit the patched wheelwell so I had to do some local butchering of the area to clear the caliper and the increased travel of the rearend on the airbags.

I had already made a cardboard template of the area a little while back so I could fab a new panel with a matching stiffener bead. So I cut out two new patch panels out of some sheet stock and then broke out the bead roller to make the panels. I left the periphery a little large so I could trim it to fit the hacked openings but it will have to be installed/welded when I remove the body from the chassis and have better access. I have a few more small things to do and then the huge task of dialing in the wonky hood.

Body Gaps

Before I started tweaking the body gaps I went ahead and installed the rubber wiper seals in each of the doors. I started out attempting to slide them in place but quickly found out that it wasn't going to work so I ended up sliding the bottom groove in place and pressing the top groove with a blunt screwdriver. I then took a plastic trim tool and gave it some small taps with a hammer to set the top groove completely in the channel. Took about 45 mins per side but they are now installed.

On the back portion of both rear fenders there was a gap near the bottom where it fit to the bedside that bugged me. After thinking it over for a bit, I decided to massage the body panel instead of massaging the fender. To get a better fit I slit the body panel in the local area of the gap just behind the body-line on the bedside. I then took a body hammer and closed the gap between the fender and body panel by tapping on the bedside panel, which opened up a banana shaped opening within the body panel. I then made a piece to fill the area and welded it into the opening and sanded it down and shot it with primer. I had to do this on both rear fenders/bedsides.

Another area that bothered me was the top of where the two barn doors come together. When I capped them several years ago the two doors ended up with a slight point between the two doors as opposed to a smooth curve like I was looking for. I show a pic of the area with a stainless scale held against the area and you can see a subtle, yet noticeable, point. So I marked where I thought I needed to slit the top and slit down the sides of each door so I could tap the contour down a bit in the local area. I slit it once and tapped it down so the gap was basically gone, then checked it and I had to re-slit it a few times and tap it down to get it where I wanted it. I then welded up the gap and sanded it (relatively) smooth. Hopefully with these slight tweaks a quick wipe of filler and some block sanding will make it all look better when it comes time for the bodywork.

Rear Hood Edge and Door Sill Plate

I got a little sidetracked of late but I have managed to eek out a few small tasks on the truck. I bought a TIG and have been tinkering with it....so why not jump off the deep end and weld some thin metal. The back edge of the hood, where it meets the cowl, bugged me just being a single piece of metal instead of having a folded edge so I decided to cut a piece of sheet to weld onto the hood and create an edge and an 1/8 dia rod to weld to along the “bend”. I took my time and just welded along the back edge (jumping around) where I had a rod. I ended up welding both sides of the rod and grinding it down then planishing the welds to counter the shrinking. It turned out ok. I will need to dial it in once I get the cowl edge straightened out. The 1/8 dia rod should allow me to trim the edge to match the cowl as needed without breaking thru the two pieces (knock on wood).
I also bought some 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 x 1/8 stainless angle to fab a door sill plate but for inexplicable reason I only bought one angle. So I went ahead and made the sill for the LH door to see how it looked and then ordered another piece of angle. I decided on the stainless since most sills I found on the market were aluminum and would easily get scratched. I trimmed it to fit and match-drilled the floor. It turned out pretty good but once I get the other side fabbed then I will need to sand them both down to remove the mill finish. I plan on giving them a brushed finished. Next up...time to take the body back off the frame (ugh) and finish some welding on the body (trans tunnel etc) and the frame (complete boxing the frame).

Wow! I thought I was anal about fitting things together. I also wondered why the edge of the hood was just single thickness, but didn't go to that effort to add a double thickness seam to it. Looks like you've done a great job there.

Thanks. The back edge already needed some shrinking and stretching due to some work by the previous owner(s) so this seemed like the thing to do...plus I never liked the sharp edge. It appears to hold its shape a little better than relying on the seal to form the thin metal.

Disassembly

It has been awhile but I'm finally back on the truck after chasing a few other projects. I've been dreading this part so maybe I have just been putting other things first to delay it. It is time to pull the body back off the frame so I can do some welding and other things that I could not do due to poor access with them together. It is tough to pull things back apart after you have spent so much time getting them together....but it must be done. I have been keeping a list of items that need attention when I got them separated so that I don't miss anything but the odds are pretty good that misses will happen anyway.

So first I pulled off the front sheet-metal and removed the dummy engine & trans and then removed the body bolts and started jacking up the body off the frame. Once the body was up high enough I then sistered three 2x6 boards to make a beam, built it up locally to clear the sides of the body and built up my shoring blocks on the floor to fit accordingly. I then bolted the body thru the beams with 3/8 dia all-thread rod so it was fairly stable while I rolled the frame from under the body.

With the body and frame apart, I then had to strip the frame. Once the frame was bare then the first big job was to finish boxing the frame as well as completing some of the areas where the pieces were just tacked in place. I did the top side first and I then ground down all the welds on that side. Once the top side was complete then I went ahead and flipped the chassis over so I can get to the bottom side easier. That is where I got to on Saturday. Tomorrow the plan is to finish the bottom side which will mean that the frame is about 99% complete (knock on wood) minus the final primer and paint. Then I'll hop over the body to do the same sort of thing on it.

Glad you got back to it. I was missing your updates! Wow that frame looks great. When you “hop over to the body”, do you plan on flipping that too?

Thanks. I don't plan on flipping the body. A majority of the work on the body is on the trans tunnel at the firewall and in the rear wheel wells where I had to cut them out to clear the disc brake calipers so it should be easy to access without flipping it.

I was happy to see your back on your project again. The attention to detail on this build is unreal, I love watching your progress.

Rear Wheelwell - Take 2

When I initially reworked the rear wheelwells I didn't have the rear disc brakes so I failed to provide adequate clearance for the brake calipers so they clashed. So I had to hack up the wheelwells locally to get the truck into the lowest position to proceed with the build. Some time ago I had made some patch panels with the stiffening rib in them for each side but they have been sitting on a shelf until I could get better access to the area. With the body removed it was time to get most of the work done on fixing the issue.

I took the patch panels and located them in the wheelwell so that they would envelope the hacked out area and clamped them both in place. I then marked the periphery of the patch panels on the wheelwells and removed the patch panels. I did this so I could determine where I wanted to re-cut the wheelwell. The wood bed is still installed on the body so I had to be careful not to get too close to it or the support structure on the other side so I had to cut somewhere between the marked periphery and these obstructions.

Once I determined where to cut it, I then cut the wheelwells (and deburred) and used the remaining periphery outline on the wheelwells to re-clamp the patch panels in place. With the patch panels in place, I then back-marked the newly trimmed wheelwell edge onto the patch panels so I could re-trim them to fit. I then trimmed the patch panels and tweaked them here and there to better fit the cut-out on the wheelwell.

Last thing to do was to weld them in place and grind down the welds being very careful not to overheat the metal and damage the wood bed behind it in doing so. I was able to weld and grind the wheel side but I will need to wait until the bed wood is removed to finish the other side. My plan (right now) is to use a black spray bedliner, like Raptor Liner, on the wheelwells and underbody. So hopefully a quick swipe with some body filler, some light sanding and the thick bedliner will hide some of the flaws so it looks more “factory-like”. Knock on wood.

Trans Tunnel – Take 2 and Frame Rotisserie

Several months (years?) ago I had to cut out the trans tunnel to further clear the 700R4 transmission. I went ahead and tack welded the new panels in place back some time ago but I still needed to weld the entire perimeter. With the body off the chassis I was able to finish the welding in this area. I then shot some black primer on it to keep the rust at bay.

I'm hopping back and forth between the body and chassis and with the chassis stripped and basically completed, minus the primer and paint, I decided that I needed to put it on a rotisserie, So I pulled out the one I had made about 17 years ago for another project and spent a day modifying it to fit the frame.

The plan is to have it sandblasted and then prime it with epoxy and then use some black Raptor 2K bedliner on it. I have already contacted a mobile media/sandblaster that will come out and strip it once we get a break in all the rain. While waiting for that to occur I am working refinishing all the other parts...suspension, rearend, etc that attach to the frame.

Frame & Suspension Finishing

A week or so ago I loaded the bare chassis into the back of the longbed Silverado and took it to get sandblasted. The mobile sandblaster that I had talked to earlier didn't return my call to confirm the scheduled date we discussed and didn't seem to be organized or very interested in the job so time to consult the ol' internet and choose another company.

The mobile guy wanted $800 min for 4 hrs of blasting and $200 per hr for anything after 4 hrs and the other company said it could do it for $300-400 so I decided it might be worth it to try and take it somewhere instead of going the mobile route. Luckily the chassis did barely fit into the longbed with about 5 ft sticking out the back with help from my tractor bucket but it did fit.

While waiting on the chassis to get blasted I started finishing the suspension parts that attach to the frame. I stripped them down and then used some 2k rattle can black primer and then followed it with some 2k rattle can Hot Rod black on them. The parts really came out well and once the frame gets back then I'll start reassembly after I get it primed and painted. Hopefully it will be done shortly.

I also took the opportunity to refinish the gas tank. I scuffed it up and then shot it with 2k rattle can gray primer and then followed that with 2k Raptor bedliner. I selected the Basalt Gray Raptor bedliner and I was pleased with the results. I plan on using the Raptor black bedliner on the frame and possibly the underbody areas of the body so using it on the gas tank was a good test without getting too deep into it. It sprays very easily and has a pretty consistent texture and seems to be fairly durable...which is what I was looking for.

Frame & Suspension Finishing (Con't)

I got the frame back from the sandblaster so it was the next focus on getting finished. Since I don't have a spray booth and I didn't want to build a temp one, I went with Eastwood's 2K brushable primer (Opti-Flow) to try and hold down the overspray. It mixed up a little thinner than what I would have thought and the rollers that they provided in the kit disintegrated during the effort but all in all it worked out ok. It is really intended for larger panels (quarter panels, doors, etc) so I figured on some issues with using the rollers so I had also bought a few cans of the 2K rattle can primer that I used in very tight areas.

I was able to coat the frame pretty good but I ended up with a few runs that you might be able to see in the pics. I let it dry and then sanded down the runs and scuffed up the primer to get it ready for the bedliner. I once again went with the 2K Raptor bedliner in rattlecans so the surface didn't have to be pristine. I ordered 4 of the Raptor cans in black but I ended up using 8 total. The Raptor sprays pretty good but it is a little difficult to get used to holding the nozzle about 2 ft away from the part but that seemed to yield the texture that I was looking for. The only other thing that you had to watch was the spray slightly clipped the can lip so I had to wipe it clean every few minutes to keep it from dripping a glob on the surface. I think it turned out well and since it sprays very heavy I only had to place plastic locally around the chassis on the floor to contain the overspray.

I still have to remove the tape from the masked off areas and paint the areas blocked by the rotisserie but it needs to dry before I do that. I also plan on spraying some Eastwood cavity spray inside of the frame once it is dry to try and keep the rust from progressing inside of the frame. I also need to chase all the threads and then I can start reassembly of the chassis.

I have also used and like the Raptor bed liner system.

When you use the cavity spray try to seal any holes in the area you will be spraying as the material will run out all over your new bed liner if you don't.

Yeah, I was planning on taping off all the holes. There are a ton of holes and I doubt I have enough rubber plugs that would fit all of them.

Frame & Suspension Finishing (Con't)

Before reassembly could start, I had to fill the rear differential with oil and that was a task. I had a few small leaks that I had to tend to and the oil was so thick it took forever to fill but I did finally get that completed. I then chased all the threads in the chassis since the bedliner is kinda thick and will cause some issues.

Then it was on to reassembling the front suspension. It went pretty smoothly since I still had the instructions. Next I installed the rear suspension, which also went smoothly but I suddenly decided the pole barn was just going to be too hot and humid in the very near future so I pumped up the airbags, rearranged some things in the workshop (with A/C) and rolled the chassis into it. Once inside I finished up by installing the fuel tank and a few other odds and ends.

Since I'm back working again and the grass seems to grow overnight with all the rain we've had then the progress is going to be a bit slow. I plan on getting the chassis finished up and mated back to the body so I can do some more fine tuning on the body panels. In the meantime I have decided to get the exhaust system ceramic coated while the chassis is moving along slowly. Maybe by the time the chassis is reassembled the weather will be a little cooler for the body placement (fingers crossed).

Oil Bath Air Filter

Back on the project after working some massive overtime of late. I bought an oil bath air filter off of Ebay several months ago with the intention of turning it into a paper filter air cleaner. I think it is an old Ford air cleaner but it had the look that I wanted to put on the small block that I am going to use and the price was right. A few days before starting, I placed it in a vinegar bath to remove some of the slight rust in it.

The first order was to buy a filter and work around that geometry. I ordered a K&N filter but it didn't seem to fit very well in the old canister so I ended up finding two paper filter that we are a little smaller diameter to use. Once I had a rough plan then I gutted the old filter and cut out all the areas that I didn't need. On the top/lid I decided that I didn't want the filter visible when installed so I had to build a recess in it. I don't have a sheet roller so I build a simple wood buck and then I used a worm clamp to hold it while I welded it in a hoop and to the internal cap. I later cut the wood buck down further and used it to form the hoop that mounts to the carb.

I also thought I needed to increase the air flow so I drilled some holes around the perimeter of the base. Once I drilled the holes then they didn't quite look right so I determined that they needed to be flanged so I took some scrap aluminum and I bought a steel bushing and made a quick hole flange tool and flanged all the holes. I then drilled some holes along the bottom mounting plate (outside the filter perimeter) to give even more air flow.

Once I had it all welded up then I went in and roughed up the surfaces with some 120 grit and some scuff pads. I then shot it with epoxy primer (not shown in pics). I still have to do some dent removal and tapping and some bodywork before I shoot it with some hotrod black paint but it turned out to my liking.

Oil Bath Air Filter (Con't)

Additional Pics

I love your flanging tool! Great job on the overall design and fabrication!

I'm using a small after market air filter, but now I want to modify my original oil bath filter housing to use a modern day filter. Yours looks great.

Transmission - 700R4

I got the 700r4 transmission back from a rebuild and before I install it in the chassis I wanted to clean and paint it. I decided to try the Hirsch enamel engine paint that can be brushed on. I want to eventually use it on the engine as well but the transmission would be a good test to see if I like it. I wanted a machine gray so I went with an old Packard color.

I first cleaned it real well with some brake cleaner and some lacquer thinner and let it dry. Next I had some roll-on or brush on 2K Eastwood epoxy primer left over from the chassis so I used it. I don't think it was necessary to primer it per the instructions but I did anyway. Once it dried then I scuffed it up with some Scotch-brite pad that I had around.

I wiped it down again and then brushed on the paint working from top to bottom. I used a foam brush to keep down the brush marks and it seems to level out nicely. It goes on pretty thick and you have to keep an eye out for runs as you go and level them out on previously painted areas but it went on very easily. The key seemed to be to brush 90 degrees to the direction the runs would occur. Any brush marks that do happen to form would fill in by gravity.

Next up is to reassemble some of the components, Lock-up, dipstick, governor cover and TV cable. I still need to remove and paint the trans pan and paint it.

Your brush job looks like you shot it. Nice job.

Thanks. That paint levels out nicely if you lay it on fairly thick and keep working on any runs. I knicked it up in a spot when I was installing the shifter and it touches up nicely as well. Can't really tell it was touched up. Painting the Edelbrock intake now. Plan on doing the whole engine trying to keep it looking like a 1950s engine.... or as close as possible

Engine Assy and Paint

I ordered a Chevy 350 from Summit for the project late January. I had instructed them to hold it at the shipping depot so I could just have them drop it into the bed of my truck with a forklift...like I have done multiple times. Welp, I came home and the engine was sitting in the middle of my driveway...ugh. I don't have any equipment to move around an engine at my house so I had to drag the crate just inside of my garage doorway.

So I had to bring home the cherry picker and engine stand so I could move it around. While it was at my house (and stuck in an ice storm) I went ahead and primed the intake manifold I had ordered as well and after the ice cleared, loaded it up in the truck to take it to the workshop.

After it was in the shop, I spent a day or two removing the old paint on the engine block (which had the same adhesiveness of black shoe polish) and taping it off to paint it to match the transmission. I also painted and installed a few of the peripheral parts (water pump, timing chain cover, etc) and was ready to install it into the chassis.

Engine & 700R4 Installation

I had my BIL come over one weekend to help me get the engine situated in the chassis. The first order of business was to mate the transmission with the engine. To make that happen, I had to put in the torque converter.... 2... hours... later (as the internet likes to say).... I discovered the rebuilder gave me the wrong spine torque converter. I was being very careful to make sure I got it properly mated to the pump (2 or 3 clunks) that I was sure that was the problem until I counted the splines. So we were dead in the water for that Saturday.

I ordered the correct converter and it is amazing how easily it installs when the spline counts match. During the week I also ordered the from pulleys and alternator so we could get a little more done the following weekend. My BIL came over again and the engine and trans went together and into the chassis easily but I did notice the converter was flush to the flexplate... more on that later.

With them in the chassis, we worked on getting the front pulleys and brackets installed. I ordered the brackets and pulleys from Alan Grove for the short water pump. The alternator bracket fit but the power steering pump bracket had to be modified extensively. It did not align with the water pump and crank pulley and I discovered those two didn't align as well. So I had to order a spacer for the crank pulley and after a cutting up the power steering bracket, they all aligned.

The engine & trans was in so I wanted to put on the radiator so I could see what clearance I had for an electric fan. I have a little over 4” clearance which I think I can work with. Like I said earlier, I noticed the converter was basically flush to the flexplate and you really need to pull it out about 1/8” to allow for thermal expansion and such.... so I did some research on how to handle it. The following week I backed the 700r4 back out of the chassis and double-checked some dimensions and made sure (again) that I had the converter engaged in the ump tangs. I measured everything and came to the conclusion that the converter was a little thicker than normal so I ordered a 1/8”spacer to go between the engine and bellhousing to bring it into spec.

This weekend I put the trans back in and installed the starter, carb, air cleaner, distributor, header and temp routed the spark plug wires. I also measured for the belts and ordered them. I had also discovered another issue with the power steering bracket. The lower run of the belt as it goes from the alternator pulley to crank pulley clipped one of the fastener heads...so I had to pull it off and modify it to clear.

I started working on the fan shroud and that will be one of the next jobs and I need to buy the AC compressor and get that bracket dialed in.... then pull them all off and paint them. It is coming along but everything seems to be fighting me in one way or another. I'm sure more “Easter Eggs” are out there to be discovered.

Engine & 700R4 Installation Con't

More pics....