Install a piece of brake line on the outlet, run that back to the fill port and push the pushrod multiple times while the master is secured to a bench (vise).
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You don’t need to bench bleed it first Do you think the factory would be messing with dripping brake fluid? And if you bench bleed it Do you think you can install it without air bubbles in the master or the lines? There are two holes in the master between the cylinder and the reservoir You will not be able to trap air in the cylinder unless something is already wrong Put the thing on dry and save a mess Then bleed it on the truck Just like the factory did I’ve done this many times It works every time Do not over travel the piston Do not install it from the wrong end Just follow the instructions in the manual And everything will work out perfect like magic -s
As explained above just fill the MC with fluid, push the plunger as many times as it takes to purge the air--- until there's no more bubbles. Pictures below show a dual reservoir setup but the principle is the same. You'll just have one return line/hose instead of two.
Then put lid on MC and make sure you keep it level until installed.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
