There are removable plugs (could be metal or rubber) near top back side of the rear backing plates that you must remove to get a flat bent brake adjuster tool into the inner drum area and back off both adjusting wheel caps on the wheel cylinder. See Figures 2, 5 & 25 in Chapter 5 for pictures that show the wheel cylinder and adjusters to know where to look on your truck.
You will need to back those off to release the brake shoes away from the drums. If the shoes haven't moved in a substantial time period, you may need to rap on the sides of the drum to cause the shoes to free up from the drum, then proceed with drum removal per the instructions in the Shop Manual.
Before all of this though, make sure you have done what you can to release the parking brake mechanism. You may even need to disconnect the cable clevis on the side that you think is seized up to free up the cable and in drum mechanism.
Let us know how it works out.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
You might find this handy, as well. Its a diagram I made while working on my '49 3804's Huck brakes. The diagram assumes you are seated with the brake mechanism directly in front of you. Hope it helps.
~ John
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
HERE IS the Tech Tip that John posted in the Driveline Tech Tips section that goes with that image.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery "We make a living by what we get; we make a life by what we give." -- Winston Churchill
Your 1 Ton rear brakes have external adjusting bolts, the 2 bolt heads protruding from the backing plate on either side of the brake line.
Below is a screenshot from Pg 5-13 of the Shop Manual that displays the bolts and how they interact with the geared adjusters on either side of the rear wheel cylinders inside the brake assembly. The diagram shows a "cut-away" of the backing plate and drum so you can see how turning the wrench on the bolt causes the adjusters to function.
To release or draw back the shoes, you will need to turn the bolt heads "counter-clockwise" to back off the settings (the description with the adjuster diagram says you turn them "clockwise" to increase drag of the shoes against the drum when setting the adjusters).
Hope this helps clear up any misunderstandings.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Those might be Bendix brakes. The wheel cylinder is on the top and the adjuster is on the bottom. Is there a single slot below the axle tube? Check the figure on this page. [on edit] Nevermind. Dan has the right answer.
Last edited by klhansen; 08/27/202311:50 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The bolt heads with the springs behind them to the left and right of the brake line are your adjustment bolts. If memory serves me they are righty tighty, lefty loosie regardless of which one you are adjusting.
If the wheel you can't spin by hand is at least free enough to allow the truck to roll, all hope is not lost.
I would suggest generous fluid application and gentle persuasion, giving some time for the fluid to migrate inside and hopefully work it's magic.
You may also need to try and give those bolt heads a few raps with a hammer as strikes could cause rust to break free and allow for movement again.
Hopefully some useful suggestions to help the process.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Judicial use of a 2lb hammer around the drum and a like amount of prying with a large screwdriver and a large amount of patience will usually be successful. Good luck.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Haven’t gotten the adjusters to release so I’ll try pull the drum
Don’t see where I can get anything in to pry between drum and backing plate
Plate wraps around drum pretty well
How bad of an idea is it to loosen nuts on axle shaft tube so they cover the end of the tube to protect it and put a plate to cover the tube to have something to push against and use a harmonic balancer puller to pull on the flange where the axle shaft bolts to?
Vice grips Do you have a brake spring tool? A plier like affair with items on the ends of the handles that help remove and install springs.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Check out the picture in Figure 36 on Page 5-17 of the Shop Manual.
Those nifty "brake spring removal pliers" can be found just about anywhere, even your local Harbor Freight, if you have one.
Dan
EDIT: Kevin beat me to the punch.
Last edited by Gdads51; 09/12/20232:00 AM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
As has been said somewhere along the way, there is more than one way to get a job done.
Congrats on getting the spring off!
On to the next steps, yes?
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)