The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline New FW and clutch kit! Big difference!

I just installed a new 168 tooth flywheel and clutch kit in my 1965 C10 with a T5 transmission. I am really enjoying the new parts. The clutch engages smoothly. For years now, the clutch I had would shudder occasionally when taking off from a standstill. Apparently the pressure plate was not doing the job properly.

Last week I damaged my old pressure plate. I had removed the pressure plate and clutch disc when I changed transmissions and accidentally installed the clutch disc backwards when I put everything back on the fly wheel.

I realized my mistake before trying to drive the truck, but the damage was already done. I then removed the pressure plate and clutch disc and installed everything correctly. However, the pressure plate was damaged enough that I was not getting complete release of the clutch disc. That meant the transmission input shaft stayed energized even though the clutch pedal was depressed. If I wanted to change from a forward gear to reverse, I needed to shut the engine off, shift the transmission, and then restart the engine.

All new parts now and it’s a lot better than before.

Lunutz, still sorting my clutch out. 1954. Can you describe how bolting down the pressure plate with the disc
reversed damages the pressure plate?
I think mine was that way when I got it, and I am experimenting with re-installing it correctly.
Will it be ruined? Well, I will find out soon!
Is it that the diaphragm springs get bent?

Yes, I think the internal springs of the pressure plate were distorted enough that the clutch disc couldn’t effectively move away from the flywheel. Reinstalling the clutch disc in the proper orientation didn’t undo the damage.

At first I was convinced that the pilot tip of the transmission was binding in the pilot bushing. The symptoms would be exactly the same. So I removed the T5 transmission and checked for burrs. Didn’t find any but I ran some coiled 120 grit sandpaper inside the bushing just to be sure. Then I checked to be sure the ID of the pilot bushing matched a brand new one. It was in tolerance. Then after installing the transmission again, it had the same problem so I knew it was the clutch disc not being released.
New clutch package solved everything. I thought a new clutch package deserved a new flywheel. Flywheel was very reasonable and about the same as getting my old one resurfaced, but without the running to a shop and waiting a week.

Did you get your driveshaft out of a Astro / Safari van? Looks like mine!

My DS came from a 2WD Chevy Blazer. I had to search for the correct model and match the number.
The first time I found one (currently in my 1963 C10 short bed) it was just laying on the ground at the salvage yard. It measured close enough that I brought it home and was delighted at how well it worked. I searched the web and found info suggesting it was used in 2WD Blazers.
This last DS is one I personally removed from a 1999 Blazer. Not every Blazer I checked had the same length DS. I compared things and documented my findings.

Please note that a T5 is about 3” longer than the 1963-66 factory 3 speed MT, so the comparison pics should make sense as to why the Blazer DS is the correct length for my C10 with a T5.

My rig was a factory 3 spd, original owner had a sm420 installed at some point before it was traded back to the selling dealer from whom my Dad purchased it in 1973.
I put a 4 speed car trans in it many years ago. Then also many years ago now I put the T5 in it. Lots of fun to drive, really happy with 261.

Thanks for the response on the clutch, Lugnutz.
I’m sure I am going to order the whole enchilada, as well.
But I, also, like to experiment so that I know exactly what is happening.
I’m trying to condense a lifetime of experience that many have , with all the mistakes,
into a much shorter time frame( not too short,I hope) 😉