The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts '35 Chevy Fire Truck 1 1/2 Ton

That should be solid L shaped bracket on the 1.5 tons.

35 trucker
The L shaped bracket you are talking about, does it attached the bell housing to the crossmember?

The L shaped brackets look like a cube cut diagonally across the corners or an L shaped piece with webs down both sides. Two bolts into the clutch housing and one down through the crossmember. It is a solid mounting with no rubber inbetween. I have some spares if you need one or two.

No thanks on the spares. That is what came with the rig but because CDF added a pump to the stocker in order to make a fire truck, I wasn't sure what is stock and what was an add on. The crossmember was cut before me and they kept the L brackets and what appears as the stock bellhousing. I need to get the number of the BH number for Rick. I keep forgetting.

Rick
I finnaly remembered.....the bellhousing number is 839257 GM, there is a B2010 on the left side. Does this work?
Thanks
John Boy

John Boy,

Your bellhousing started life as part number 605669 and was later changed to part number 3847361. It fits 1938-47 ALL Commercial & Utility. The B2010 looks like a date code, but I don't have information telling how to read it. My best guess is B = Feb and the last 0 = 1940...maybe others can fill in the 201 gap?

Mike B

Mike B, thanks for the info. You and your fellow "Bolters" have been a wealth of info. Clutchead was correct. A '35 bellhousing WILL NOT bolt up to a mid '50's 235. However, it appears GM kept the clutch/break side mount for a while after '35.
Sometime before my ownership, a latter version of the bellhousing was put on a '53 235 PG engine.
Mike B, how did you remove 70yrs of greese? :hammering:

JB,

It took lots of putty knife scraping and a wire bruch with kerosine. Not a fun job... After I got most of it clean I sand blasted using a rented commercial compressor with sandblaster. It had a BIG tip and unlimited air which made the job go real fast. It would have taken me many days using my 5hp shop compressor to do what I did in just one day with the rented unit.

Mike B

JB,
Try using Picasa to store your pix. It's not that hard. Heck, if I can do it, anyone can. We want to see pixtures.

OK, Orchidskip,I will give er try. darn, Mike B, the rented air supply/sandblaster would work for me. I have been dredding having my 5hp go thru that exercise.
I expect the wood kit I ordered from Atwood to show any time!! What is some of your the pitfalls of the NEXT STEP? Where did you get your fasteners?

I finally recieved the wood for the Cab. Man, what a feeling. Does anyone have a suggestion on where to get the fasteners. The fella I purchased the wood from suggested Auto Hardware Specialties?

Does anyone have any idea when GM went to free floating rear axles? I have a shop manual which I purchased off eBay for '35/'36 Chevy. It discribs how to handle the floater but no mention of the tappered axle. :confused:

1936 was the first year for the full floating rear axle.

Most all the fasteners can be purchased at a local Home Depot or by internet from Carr-McMasters. I could tell you what fasteners you need if you tell me what piece or joint your puttting together.

I saved exampels of ALL the fasteners that came out of the old hide. She has more than just a #8 and #10. I would really like to use phillips head due to the power equipment available. There were many nails used in this application. This could be long spring time operation!
I am sealing the wood tomorrow. I just started on the engine with camshaft bearings etc, piston rings and the like. VERY EXCITED

John Boy be sure to pre-drill all the nail holes first so you don't split the wood.. The replacement wood you get from K.C. Wood or Jim Rodman are pre-drilled for a lot of fasteners and are not the same as the original. Also the tee nuts in the wood you need are diiferent than the originals, they don't make them like they use too. You can use anything that fits unless you want the original appearance on the exposed fasteners Most of the guys use stainless steel nails to reinstall the sheet metal.

I picked up the Deft and will be starting the process. I am also picking up the head to the 235 this am. Good advise on the fasteners. I was wondering on the nails.
The pics you sent will be very helpful. It looks like many clamps will be very helpful. Seems like the structures will be flimsy when driving nails when starting.

Put all your back wood structure together with the rear door opening posts and mount to the floor sills first before installing any sheet metal then fit your cab rear corner panel on first using your back panels to make sure the corners are in far enought to overlap the basck panel correctly. This structure should be strong enough to nail on all the back panels with no extra clamps needed.

Well, I hope I don't sound to thick, but it sounds like I build a little wooden structure out of the back/door frame and floor BEFORE I put any sheet metal on? Once you have me in the correct direction, I should be able to geter done.

I have found that is the best way to start. The rear cab corners have to fit or everything gets screwed up. The cab top is the last to install. You will probably have to use a belt sander to taper the wood parts to get the corners to fit especially the bottom sill corners.

I just finnished the Deft sealing. All the pieces appear to be there and after trying to fit a few, looks like maybe they fit.
The pics you sent will be a big help as I did not take pics or make notes as I was tearing things apart. I guess this is a common ROOKIE mistake :mad: I have bearings in cam and crank. Will be putting head on and the rest of the engine stuff. Got behind on painting the frame, but now that the weather has warmed up, MAYBE

35 Tucker
How long will it be before you have a "how to put it back together manual"?

I'm so slow it will be many months. I trying to learn how to use this pagemaker program and how to include digital pictures at the same time. I'm finding it's almost impossible to teach an old dog new tricks. I'm looking for some outside help now.

Did you sand blast your sheet metal? I am in a quandry as to how much effort to put into tha old Fire Truck, as it will not be a show piece. It will be a vehicle which will provide my grandaughter transportation to and from the bus stop when she goes to his shcool. I am almost afraid to admitt here that I do not want to
CHERRY it out

I need king pins/bushings for the old '35. The Filling Station has parts, but they have any specific info on "Q" 11/2 ton.
Anybody have a suggestions :confused:

I had my cab corners sand blasted. My cowl, roof top, back panels and doors dipped as I didn't want them stretched and there are so many hidden areas. The place I have them done at also with elpro prime them (electrostatic primer applied in a dip tank just as the new production cars are done. If you are careful the cab corners being such high crowned panels can be sand blasted. King pins 1931 thru 1940 1.5 tons are all the same; cars and 1/2 tons are different. Try ChevyB for parts.

I finnished the bottom end of the six and so far everything looks good. I just have a little more to go on the frame and install new king pin bushings before painting.
Thanks for the advise will follow-up on Chevy B