The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1957 235

After looking at the Speedway parts specs, I'm guessing you used an adapter to fit to your Carter carb inlet???

The filter housing specs show an inlet diameter of 2-5/8" (2.625) but the Carter flange is 2-5/16" (2.375).

I do see that Speedway offers an adapter ring that provides a solution to that mismatch.

Did you use the adapter ring, or something else???

Dan

I did have to take a small amount of plastic from around the adapter ring with a grinding stone
mounted on a batt drill so it fit snug on top.

Here is the throttle linkage return spring configuration.
Part of a Holley manifold mounted return spring (Springs and used the catch on the oil pan bolt ).
Works fine. Should clear the exhaust flange.

Before pic is with the original carb. Also you can see the original blue paint
on a truck 235. Panel truck.

Looks like I am ready to try and crank this old thing.
Is there any things I should do before? Its not been run in years.
I`ve heard its good to remove the plugs and dist cap and wait for some oil pressure to
register first. I am open to all suggestions.

Just curious, have you done everything in this Tech Tip Bringing a dead engine back to life with this engine already?

I couldn't tell as you have been discussing both of your Panel Trucks and the engines in various threads.

Give a run through the checklist, with the addition of making sure you check for stuck/sticking valves when you hand turn-over the engine as those do tend to stick from long term lack of movement/lubrication.

Oh yeah, does it have fresh gas with all the old stuff purged???

Dan

Thanks. I`ll give that a good read. All info is good info. Sorry to be all over the place with the 2 panel trucks.
I am trying to get them in the same mechanical shape. The 59 lacks reaming the spindles
for new and different tie rod ends and its done. The 58 is close. After this and it cranks.
I`ll finish the front brakes.
I reached out recently to the previous owner and confirmed it ran good.
The gas tank has been gone thru by me and in great shape.
58 is an off frame.

This morning I got the engine to turn over and pull gas from a gas can.
But not to crank. Charging BATT now.
Check spark?

Did gas actually make it to the carburetor?

Assuming all ignition parts are new. Yes, check to see if you're getting spark at the dizzy and then at the plugs.

Yep, gas to the CARB. Checked voltage to DIST and COIL. Both at 12.8 with key on.
Plug check next.Those are new and correctly gapped.
Thinking new condenser ,maybe points. Might try a test light. Check things while cranking.
Will need a friend to help.
Howabout that thru bolt in the bottom of DIST? It seems a little squirrely.

If I may ask, what fastener are you referring when you state "thru bolt"? Any chance you are referring to the fastener that secures the point spring and condenser wire on the inside of the distributer and extends to the outside of the distributor body to which the coil wire attaches?

Yes

You can buy that insulator and bolt from old tractor parts houses. Many old tractors used Delco-Remy distributors.

Ok, does the delco remy part number on the point plate end in 2403? This is the internal hardware and layout of the parts for the 2403 distributor which is the correct distributor for a 57. If you have a different distributor, you may have a mismatch in distributor and cap, as in early distributor and late style cap, which will not work.

Sure is....thanks

Dan Timm rolled in this morning and had a look. www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCqOqTFpQzk

Did a few test and observations. Points are there but corroded. Loses spark.
He thinks new points and condenser will fire it up.
I`ll have those tomorrow. Coil on order too. Those are parts I did not replace.
But no need for a fire extinguisher. No terrible sounds upon initial start up.
Which makes me happy to know all that new stuff I put on was right.
Hunting season is open and soon I`ll be in the woods for 2 weeks. These Paches will have to wait.

consider using a set of Blue Streak Lubripoints, DR-2227XP Standard Motor Products

Thanks, I have this on the way. ACDelco Professional D111

What a good coil?

I know they are Delco, they are not that great.

I have heard that about AC delco. Hey ,live and learn.

"AC-Delco" is not the same as the older "Delco Remy" stuff. Most of it is made offshore now, with questionable quality control. There's still a lot of Delco Remy stuff available on Ebay if you do some careful shopping. It's mostly "old stock" from closed-down auto parts stores that the wholesalers buy and flip.
Jerry

The DIST insulator and bolt looks like it has been rigged with a small stovebolt.
So the crimped end is a slot head. I will look to replace that. Coil arrives.

Replaced condenser , points and coil. Put in the insulator and bolt off the other 235.
The crimped end was still there. Some plastic I used off this 235.I have the gap at .019 The resistor is brand new.
Sounds strong when trying to crank. Getting fuel.
Still not acting like it wants to start. I think still no spark.

Anything to check?

It's either getting a spark or it isn't. Have you at least put one of those spark plug lights on the end of the wire or checked for a spark at the top of the dizzy?

Those rudimentary tests will at least tell you if spark is getting to the wires or the plugs. If it is, you need to make sure timing is set to spec and that the voltage is high enough to fire.

Are you 100 percent sure the distributor is set up so No. 1 spark plug wire is at Tdc for firing?

Ill have to get Dan back over here. He set TDC .

I need a dwell light? Looking for one.

I think I have a dwell meter but it has been so long since I used it I cannot be sure.

To check for spark I typically just use a timing light, if the light fires you have spark in the wire.

WICruiser's idea is a good one.

I was thinking of those inline testers that connect between the plug and the wire and have a light encased in plastic. It flashes when the plug fires.

I have a timing light. I`ll check with that. Wish I had a windshield to reflect.LOL

Thanks Dragsix ,Otto and Wicruiser.

Forget the timing light. Trace the no. 1 plug wire to the distributor cap. On the body of the distributor use a silver sharpie and put a verticle line under the center of the cap tower for the no. 1 plug. Now, remove all the plugs and use a remote starter switch to bump the motor a bit at a time, keeping a finger over the spark plug hole for No. 1. When you feel compression, stop. Then look at the pointer on the bellhousing and use the fan belt to rotate the motor until you see the bb that is embedded in the flywheel meet the pointer. That is Tdc. Now, remove the cap. Is the rotor pointed at the sharpie mark? If it is, the motor is correct timed at tdc. If not, loosen the screw on the octane selector plate/distributor hold down. Not the bolt on the selector plate, loosen the screw. Turn the distributor so that the pointer is pointed directly at your mark. Tighten the screw. Put the cap back on, install the plugs. See if it will start.

Also, can you post a photo of the distributor insides as you have them now?

Thank you very much Dragsix. I will try that today!!!!
I`ll post a pic as well.

Dragsix is right on if you are trying to confirm the timing but I thought you were just trying to confirm that you have spark going to the plug. If you do not have spark correct timing will not mean anything.

I think he's first trying to determine if he's even getting a spark to the plugs. If he is, he'll then have to verify that his engine is timed correctly.

Let me ask you guys. Without removing the plugs as I have no remote starter, can I
rotate the engine and line up the timing marks on the flywheel?
There is 1 mark left of circle and 2 right of. I assume those are degrees?
If I line the circle up on the flywheel and remove the DIST cap, should the rotor be pointed
at #1 ?
I am by myself with this mostly and a little ignorant on engine matters. Thats why I am here.

First determine if your ignition system is even working by checking for a spark as mentioned earlier.

You can turn the engine with a socket wrench on the crank pulley or with the the fan if the plugs are removed. It should be easy to do with one hand while your thumb is over the #1 plug hole.

Lining up the BB with the pointer without doing what Dragsix said will tell you nothing. There would be no way to know if #1 piston is at TDC during the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke.

Ok, thanks. I have no spark when I ground a spark plug to block.

Did you see any flashes on your timing light at all on any of the plug wires while cranking the engine?

If there is no spark getting to any plugs, you have to work backward to the dizzy, cap, rotor, etc.

Is your ignition switch hooked up? Hooked up correctly? Is it any good?

Points grounded correctly?

Working backwards from the plug wires, cap and rotor have not been replaced but appear
clean and new. Rotor button on top is pronounced. New coil,points condenser. Not sure about if its grounded correctly or
not. I have 12.8 v at the DIST and the coil.
Wiring is all new and switch.

What is the voltage at the coil + and - when the points are closed?

Here is the pic. This is what I ran into doing this procedure. Spining the fan with finger over #1, I noticed
air compression out at 3 different degrees and 1 degree of nothing out of 4. All at quarter intervals.
I hope this kinda make sense .It hard for me to describe. I did the octane selector moving 3 different times.
At times I thought it was TDC. I did everything you described, down to the silver sharpie.
It is hard for me to decipher what "compression" means in this application.