The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1957 235

WD-40 isn't a lubricant. PB Blaster is much better for the job you're trying to do. Liquid Wrench is another similar product.

I've used a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF for years and it's better than both. The disadvantage is that it isn't in an aerosol can. if the manifold is off the engine you can probably get it into whatever cracks and crevices necessary.

WD-40 is virtually worthless for freeing up rusty moving parts. PB is only slightly better. Most people are just too timid to do what's needed. Get the thing HOT and use a very aggressive penetrant- - - -liberally. A 50/50 mix of acetone and the cheapest generic automatic transmission fluid you can find (bottom shelf stuff at Walmart) will make half a gallon of really good penetrating oil, for a fraction of the cost of the same volume of KROIL. Last time I checked, Wally World also had the acetone in quart cans. Just be sure to store the stuff in a metal can- - - -it will dissolve most plastics.


Jerry

I`ll try some PB next.

Guitplayer... the key word is... Patience.
Tap, wiggle, spray, forget. Spray it every time you look at it looking back at you... then go back to Tap, wiggle, spray, forget.
Took me 3 weeks. Mine was frozen as tight as Uncle Pete's hatband. All of a sudden one day IT MOVED! Then it was wiggle, sray, wiggle, spray, forget.
Gotta give the penetrant all the time it needs. Now it works like brand new.

Ill let it soak. Thanks fellas , Patiance ..
That blaster might be helpful with those frozen mounting flange bolts.

Blasted it and that helped. The heat riser is freed up enough to move by hand.
I`ll continue to let it soak after paint cures.
Looking for the correct water pump gasket.

Rock Auto lists the gasket

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1957,bel+air,3.8l+235cid+l6,1326147,cooling+system,water+pump+gasket,2148

Thanks Otto!! That was the right one.
here is the alt. lined up with the original pulleys.
I measure and came up short. I measured 39 inches with a string.
40 inch was too short. Will need a 43 inch.
Pic of fan that I left the original color/paint.

43 inch ,too long. 41 inch is perfect

Little help on what the chances of the dist and coil are good or not.
They supposedly were. New condenser, points? Id like to save as much
money as I can.

The chances are pretty good that they will be just fine - there's no reason why the condenser or coil would go bad from just sitting (well the condenser more chance, but still more so would be good)
On the contacts, if they are pitted badly, replace them - otherwise just clean and/or pull some FINE wet/dry through them in the closed position.
That would be the limit of what I would do right now - just get it in and timed and run it!

Not sure how much originality you want to retain - personally, I'm going with an HEI which are not a huge outlay, but waiting until it's in and running before doing that

I see you have the dizzy out. Pick it up, flop it left and right and see if you hear the weights clack back and to. If not, then take the points, condenser and plate off and soak the head to remove the old dried up grease and crud from it. Dry it, flop it back and to and hear it go click, clack. Clean and grease the grease cup and reinstall. Be sure you don't lose the bakelite plug under the spring. Pitted points indicates a condenser problem.

Thanks guys, thats encouraging. I `ll try it.
HEI ,I thought about.

Save that oil cap from the stuck 235... it's an original late 50's AC breather cap. Clean it like you would the oil bath air cleaner. Getting hard to find. Thought I had lost mine when it came off going down the road... durn near cried. Found it laying on the manifold up against the firewall. Stovebolt Angels were with me that day!

I still have the old cap. Right now its just a rubber gasket and breather cap.
That should work?
Engine`s new home.

Where to find the gasket that goes between the manifold?

Jim Carter ME3671

Happy 4th of July

Dan

Thanks Dan!!!

Ok, a few questions... I have now the resurfaced flywheel.
Is now a time, before assembly to find and mark TDC?
I was hoping it would be easier than finger plugging # 1 spark plug
and turning the engine over after initial install.
I need to know this before dropping DIST.
2nd there is a pilot bushing there in the engine now. Appears in great shape.
But I have a pilot bearing that came with one of the throwout bearings that would work.
I guess its a choice of old or new + bushing or bearing.
I am going to assemble + install the engine like this with bell housing attached.
Unrelated but still the same engine. Does anyone recall if the oil cap was painted or left metal?
I was thinking of just a clear coat for that and keep some patina since the valve cover is original.

Here is my take on your pilot bushing question. You have a fresh cut on the flywheel, new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing, but you are going to leave the old pilot bushing in place because it sort of looks ok? Don't do that. You have gone this far, go a little further. They are easy to remove, easy to install a new one, and then all your work is new and fresh parts.

To remove, forget packing the hole with bread or grease and trying to hydraulic it out. Instead, use a 5/8 NC tap. It will thread in, bottom out, and then the old bearing will walk out as you keep turning. Once its out, use some brake cleaner or solvent to clean the cavity all out. Next, I dont know the type of bushing you have, but make sure its bronze and preferably made of oil lite material. Do not grease this bushing, oil maybe, but no grease. You will seal up the pores and the oil in the oil lite bushing will not leach out and do its job. Oil the OD of the bushing and use either a spare trans input shaft or a real install tool, lol, to install it.

For the trans, dont forget to make up a pair of install studs. Cut the heads of a pair of bolts that have a sufficient amount of unthreaded shank so that you can install the headless bolts. Grind a taper on the shank end to aid in starting the trans on the bolts. Then slide the trans in on the shanks instead of running the risk of damaging the input shaft by having too much weight on it while installing it free hand.

... and cut a slot in the outer end of the stud so you can use a screwdriver to remove the stud.

Thanks!! yes, bronze for the bushing for sure.
The new one is a bearing type. I`ve used the bronze before, and will again.
I`ll try the tap removal.
The idea of all new is appealing.
Finding TDC? Now or later?

I borrowed a slide hammer with2 fingers on the end to remove the pilot bushing.
Waiting on a bronze bushing to replace.
Looks like it will be fun installing flywheel and clutch with the bell housing
on. Any tricks?

Lightly lube o.d. of bushing & bore in crank, tap in place making sure it's going in straight. I use an old input shaft & a brass hammer.
As for flywheel & clutch, if the floor pan can come out it make it makes things easier. Use a small amount of thread sealant (gm pipe sealant w/ Teflon 12346004 or equl) on the flywheel to crankshaft bolts as they are not blind holes. An old input shaft is the best alignment tool imho. Tighten all bolts small amount at a time. A couple of 1/2" threaded stud makes transmission alignment easier. Another trick is to adjust the clutch to the point where the release bearing is snug, helps keep bearing from getting knocked of fork during trans install.

Thanks. I like the snug throwout bearing on the tran install.
I`ll do that.
Plan on borrowing a torque wrench. Flywheel bolts to 60lbs.
Using blue threadlock.
Can I use a small amount of engine oil to lube the OD of the bushing?
Or some kind of grease?

Let me try this again, lol. As noted above, an oillite bronze pilot bushing, which is what the better bushings are made from, is an oil infused bushing. It leaches oil. If you grease the id, you seal the pores and the oil cannot leech out and lubricate the tip of your input shaft. So use oil, even if you don't know if your bushing is an oilite type bushing or not. On the od, it does not matter, just the id so use grease if you want on the od.

Thanks, no one said anything about the ID , so I was not doing anything with that.
Just the OD , the 327s ,I did not use any lube there on the OD of the pilot bushing.
Same bushing fortunately, as the 235.

I used an old input shaft with its bearing for clutch line up. Using the studs, the tranny slid in sooo easy it was scary. I made one line-up stud an inch longer than the other so I didn't have to line both studs up at the same time.

Pretty good idea.

You're not as dumb as I look.

That looks sweet!! Nice idea

Since it's hard to get the clutch lined up exactly with the pilot hole even with an old input shaft, if I run into resistance in that last half inch I have somebody disengage the clutch so the disc can slip around a little. That usually does the trick.

Will I run into trouble setting the flywheel bolts and the
crankshaft moving? I am about to get started and
I have blue thread lock and borrowed a torque wrench.
Spectre bolts with star lock washers. But if that moves with me ,how is the
best way to stop it from spinning?

Use C clamps or vise grips where the flywheel meets the bottom edge of the bell housing. One will do, but one on each side will be a little more secure and prevent movement either way.
Jerry

It's also possible to leave the pressure plate bolts a little loose, and torque them after the transmission is installed. That lets the clutch disc self-align and makes it a one man job. Sliding the trans in on a couple of long headless bolts is also a good idea.
Jerry

Jerry, so I am clear. Vise grips on the flywheel or bell housing?
I would guess BH.

You're trying to keep the flywheel from turning while tightening things up, so put the clamp on the flywheel close to edge of the BH so it can't turn...

Mike B

Thanks, makes sense. What I ended up doing was using a 5 inch carriage bolt
same threads as the clutch pressure plate in the flywheel.
That caught on the underside of the bell housing.

Lots of ways to skin a cat- - - - -at least according to the local oriental restaurant owner! "Filet Meow!"
Jerry

Thanks guys. Good stuff!!