The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Looking for some help in WV

I have had this truck for several years now and have gotten it to the point here I need to start rebuilding the driver’s front corner where multiple panels have rotted away. I need to replace the floor panel, outer rocker, inner/outer cowl, rear cab corner and so on.

I am a little tentative on HOW to start the process, i.e. which is the first domino (panel) to fall.

If there is anyone within spitting distance of the 25430 ZIP (Kearneysville WV) who has walked this path already I would appreciate some input. Maybe come over and provide a few pointers that will enable me to get going. I will provide beer/pizza or whatever other fuel you need. I think once the project is underway things will be simpler but it is those first few steps I am faltering on.

I have the tools, workshop etc but am conscious that a slightly misplaced outer rocker panel or cowl panel will screw up the whole thing.

Full disclosure, I am a stage 5 kidney patient, on dialysis. So, my stamina isn’t great and I tire easily but I am confident I can get through this.

I just went through much of what you are planning. Mine was almost as bad as yours. I can walk you through and send pics showing what I did step 1,2,3 wise.

Wish you were closer I would come help in a heat beat. I was scared a couple times and needed a experienced friend to bail me out. Once he did I understood, and can explain it forward.

Thanks, NH is a little far but I really appreciate the reply. The issue is that the cab has sunk to the point the floors are off of level. I need to get the cab back to specs and am working out which panel has to go in first. I suspect the sequence is uber important.

Looks like your truck is a later model where the outer rocker panel is structurally quite different. I suspect the issues are similar but not identical.

Thanks again for reaching out. If you have any input on the sequence I am all ears.

Paul

paul65,

Just for clarification, you are asking about how to do this on the '51 3100 with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed that is showing in your signature line???

Confirmation will help others provide the answers you seek.

Dan

Great point! Yes, this is for the 53 3100. I potentially am looking at a Code 504 build but that might take me away from the 'original' looking truck I am aiming for. Regardless, the first issue(s) are just getting the cab in order which is the same 'original' OR Code 504.

Thanks for clearing that up Paul.

I am sure others will come along and chime in with some helpful info on your question soon.

While you wait, you may want to go and look at this previous thread on the subject that you participated in last year that seems to provide much of the info in question.

I think member "klhansen" will most likely chime in here later as he has the chance to try and offer further help.

Dan

PS - If you are looking for a fellow local Bolter that may be able to come help in person, I would suggest you post your "ask" in The ODSS Forum as that's the Stovebolt region that WV is part of.

Paul

I would get the floor supports and floor in place first before tackling the cowl itself. Before you weld the floor/rocker panel (the one across the bottom of the door opening) in place to the hinge pillar, double and triple check the horizontal dimensions of the door opening and the height of the floor reference to the hinge bolts (I believe you can get those dimensions from the FAM - look at Section 1, Sheet 1.07 and Sheets 63.01 and 63..02.) I see that you have the cab braced, which is definitely a good thing.

It might also take a lot of jet fuel to get me there to help, as I'm a little ways from WV.

You might also take a look at my photos on Flickr (the link in my signature.) I've definitely been where you are repair-wise.

Feel free to ask specific questions as you get into it. Good Luck.

Thanks for replying, I recall you were most helpful the last time I asked questions. If I can get ONE panel in place this weekend I will be happy...it is progress. I spent some time sitting on a stool staring at the truck and think I have a plan. The floor is not level BUT that is when measured towards the front. You can see from the shot of the passenger side that the floor has risen sharply near the front mount. I guess the cab has sunk in that corner causing the floor to rise, with respect to the more rearward floor which IS still level all the way across.

So, I have a decent reference in that the floor is level near to the seat riser. I can hopefully therefore install the driver's side floor pan, keeping it level (at the rear) left to right, across to the passenger side, and front/rear to the B pillar. The grooved contours in the floor pan allow me to gauge how far forward it needs to be. I will ensure the groove @1-2 inches in front of the seat riser blends well, from the new panel to the original part in the center of the cab. Hopefully that is easy to visualize. Once I have the floor panel in place I should be able to lift the cab of of the frame and insert the floor support which includes the front cab mount.

It seems the next best step is to get the floor panel linked to the firewall, thus allowing the installation of the parking brake bracket, which I can in turn use to help me locate the outer rocker panel. Once the rocker is in place I can turn my attention to the inner/outer cowl, and finally the rear corner.

I know the door 'hole' is critical but at present the A pillar which includes the door hinges is flapping in the wind so as soon as I hang a door on it it droops. I guess I can move it ot the right location using measurements, do a couple of tacks to hold it and then mount the door...

Paul

Some current shots of the cab.

Second photo shows the raised portion of the passenger side floor.

4th and 5th photos show a straight edge across the floor just in front of the seat riser.