The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Frame Cleaning and Painting

Getting ready to start on the rear of the frame as I had planned a while back. Been researching more parts and what to do with the frame. I'd like to blast the frame clean but my homemade blaster is not ready yet as well as limited time to work on it. So I figure I'm going to start by removing the axle, springs and few other things so it'll be easier to work on.
May have the blaster ready by then or plain wire wheel cleaning.
Have a couple issues, there is a set of helper springs on it. Cannot find anywhere that it was factory and decided I am going to remove them and also take apart the stock springs to rebuild and paint them. Assuming the removal of the helper springs shouldn't affect much of anything? The bump stops are bolted.

There are some welded plates on the frame, wanted to know if I can cut them off to make the frame smooth? Appears to be used for something, nothing wrong with the frame such as cracks. Can I grind them off without having any issues?
Last, what is a good primer or paint for covering the bare metal from rust till I actually do the real painting?
Photos of the springs and metal onto frame:

I used a acid converter on my frame, but it was not as bad as yours. Then I used Eastwoods encapsulator with multiple coats brush and spray.

What is on the other side of the frame from those plates? Those look pretty intentional, which makes me think they are there for a reason.

I agree with Fibonachu. No one welds on a frame just for giggles (and shouldn't weld on it at all unless absolutely necessary).

As far as rust removal, sandblasting is probably the best, followed by epoxy primer. But since you won't be able to reach all the nooks and crannies with a blaster, Some sort of rust converter paint as Ferris suggested would be appropriate. Be careful using acid products, as they need to be completely neutralized before coating.

Post your questions about overload springs over in Driveline. Those type of overloads were used from the factory on bigger stovebolt trucks. No reason you couldn't remove them if you're not planning on carrying a big load in it.

On the welded plates, looks like backyard welded job, not very good and scrap metal. Nothing on other side of the frame. Used to have a wood flatbed, even the "U" bolts were made with 2 bolts, 1 bent other welded to the bent bolt creating a "U" bolt. Guessing was a farm truck. Assuming the plates were for the flatbed or something else.

The helper springs are bolted onto a plate onto the frame, see last photo. Not planning any large loads, just a nice driver in town.

Just got a job requiring sand for a filter, gives me an excuse to go pick up filter sand, sandblasting sand and a hose that will complete my blaster. May just blast away.

Will post the overloads on Driveline just to be safe. Maybe someone can give me ideas.

Thanks Again

Given what you say above, I would *cautiously* say you could remove those plates.

That said, inspect the area under them *very carefully* to make sure they were not covering some kind of damage that is not visible from the other side.

If someone is adding plates for strength (to go with the overloads) they would typically be a fair bit longer and better attached. The quality of the welds aside, it doesn't really looks like a strength plate.

Edit: thinking about this again, the low quality of the welds would concern me even if they are to fix some damage. Pulling them off and inspecting/fixing it properly might be prudent.

Thinking that's what I'll do is take the plates off, look under it and clean. If there is any damages, I can weld back on a better plate with better welds. I am dreading seeing how much rust/dirt is under it as the welds are not completely sealed.

Just remembered some old photos before I picked up the truck, where the plates are is also where the bed U bolts were. Guessing it was there to keep the frame from being squashed by the U bold bracket? Kind of makes sense now. Glad I still have the photos.

That is plausible and would explain the poor welds.

I think your plan is a good one. Remove/inspect/repair as needed.

RP14 Did you know that our frames are made of A 36 frame steel ?? It is a special steel made to flex,any frame repairs should be done with A 36,when you look at old riveted frames that you know have been used and twisted yet are still fine. I learned from the old welder who always used 7018 lo-hi welding rod,he said it gives and flexes just like the frame. I once extended a 72 1-ton 2 feet used A-36 years later it was just fine been flexed a lot.

Got half the rear frame blasted and cleaned. Disassembled and cleaned the springs, removed the worn sleeve bushings. Installing the leaf spring bushings, one set fit in there snug, the other set of springs the bushings dropped right in with no effort, slightly loose, maybe a piece of paper loose. Will this be a problem? Not sure how to get the bushings tighter/ snug around the leaf "eye". If not a problem then I'll leave alone. Be a few years before being able to drive it.

Any suggestions on tightening leaf spring "eye" or add a shim, locktite?

That one bushing probably seized up on the shackle pin and spun within the spring. You might try clamping the leaf spring eye in a BIG vise and squeezing it a bit. Since it's spring steel, it will take a lot of movement to bend and stay enough so the bushing is tight. Another band-aid would be stud and bearing mount type locktite. But I predict that fix is probably not going to last.

The correct approach would be to replace the springs with new. They'll come with new shackle bushings installed. The originals are likely sagged a bit anyway.

Its a just me thing, I feel what ever paint is used with a primer will be way better than what the factory did. Even something like rustoleum, and if it is fully cured then for protection over it a 2k clear. I have a friend that has done that on wheels, the 2k clear gives it the protection to make it last. Just remember most all modern autos are painted with water base colors, then a 2k clear coat over that.

Well, just an update. Got the rear section of the frame sandblasted to just behind the cab, cut the ugly welded plates off the frame and ground smooth. Looks a whole lot better and cleaner. Took the springs off, disassembled and blasted clean. Painted and reassembled with new bolts/bushings. Cleaned the axle up real nice as well, just now replacing the gaskets and seals before putting back on truck. Hopefully by this weekend. Used Rustoleum paint on the parts as I will be redoing probably in a few years when I pull the cab.
My goal right now is to get the truck running to drive back and forth to work which is a mile away on a dirt road, gas station couple miles away across highway, so I should be fine.
I want to get a feel of how the truck rides and go from there. If I can find the 248 engine parts, I may just put it back as stock as possible.