Just finished up this DIY with tips to make rewiring a classic vehicle go smoother. Every vehicle will have its own quirks, but these tips might encourage the first timer and take away a lot of the stress. The photo is a teaser. Suggestions are always welcome. DIY Wiring Tips
Nice job, especially the details offered at your link.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
This is an excellent DIY Tech Tip you have provided here Lugnutz!
Although there isn't currently a "Tech Tip" sub-forum for the "Electrical Bay", this would definitely get my nomination/vote for posting there when HQ gets around to creating one!
Your explanation, tips and very useful pictures are a great resource to those of us planning or doing a wiring harness replacement.
Thank You Sir!
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I would suggest 2 things. 1) find an alternative to the 3M zip tie anchors. Even with epoxy, they tend to only last through a season or two. After while, you'll have a harness with unstuck squares attached to it. Could just be regional as my area will go from the 30's to triple digits year round. The heat is usually the killer. And 2) it might be extra work, but try to run your always hot large cables where things can't fall on them or where rocks and road debris can't hit them. Dropping an AC compressor or an alternator, or even letting the auxiliary battery hot wire get pinched between the cab and frame, creates quite a mess that usually involves replacing all body grounds, a parking brake cable and other hidden items that let the smoke out. Sad to say, I've had to make those repairs more than once in my lifetime.
I'll second Dan's nomination for a Tech Tip here. Shoot a PM to Phak1, who's working with John Milliman on tech tips, if you're willing have that excellent article here on the site.
Good work! Thanks for sharing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I would suggest 2 things. 1) find an alternative to the 3M zip tie anchors. 2) it might be extra work, but try to run your always hot large cables where things can't fall on them or where rocks and road debris can't hit them.
What might be a good alternative to the 3M zip tie squares?
All of my positive (always hot) wires follow a fairly standard path. What path are you suggesting?
I’m always open to suggestions. I can add/delete/update/modify my DIY at any time if needed.
Rewiring my 66 C10 is next on the agenda. I've got your link bookmarked on my computer. Thanks, Lugnutz ! I've got an AAW kit still in the box waiting patiently for me to open it. I've not even cut the packing tape on it yet, less the can of worms escape LOL.
1966 C-10 Short Stepside HiPo Step-by-step ~ and on-going resto build in the Project Journals
Great write up Jay! I would love to turn this into a “Tech Tip” and will proceed with your permission. I’ll PM you and we can discuss.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
What might be a good alternative to the 3M zip tie squares?
All of my positive (always hot) wires follow a fairly standard path. What path are you suggesting?
I’m always open to suggestions. I can add/delete/update/modify my DIY at any time if needed.
The "P" clips you show would be one. They would take more effort to mount, screw and nut, threaded plate, etc., but would never come undone. Pre-planning with weld in wire clips would be another. But that really requires planning your wire run pre-paint. Or more hole drilling for the plastic clamp type. Pic attached. Or the slide on metal clip type which can grab a frame edge, body pinch edge, etc. Second pic.
Modern cars have gotten away from mounting battery to starter wire on top of the frame. For reasons I mentioned previously. Mounting to the side of the frame or even inside a protected plastic or metal run would be a better solution. On some of my projects, I have run them inside of the frame tubing, even though it is more labor intensive to attach. A lot of OEM runs are inside the C channel of the frame where it is protected.
I'm the last guy who would tell anyone how to do anything. All I'm offering are suggestions for a better or alternative way. In my career, I my oldest fleet equipment I maintain was built in 1939 and also the newest that 2023 has to offer. After doing this stuff day in and day out, you see why the OEM's changed things the way they did. I'm not saying they always get it right, but they do eventually settle in to a safe standard. You just got to keep in mind they do it all, while trying to maximize profits. I always feel we can do better since we have the time and typically, aren't worried about profits.
There's a reason gas tanks aren't mounted in your lap anymore, ala Model A's.
The "P" clips you show would be one. They would take more effort to mount, screw and nut, threaded plate, etc., but would never come undone. Pre-planning with weld in wire clips would be another. But that really requires planning your wire run pre-paint. Or more hole drilling for the plastic clamp type. Pic attached. Or the slide on metal clip type which can grab a frame edge, body pinch edge, etc. Second pic.
Modern cars have gotten away from mounting battery to starter wire on top of the frame. For reasons I mentioned previously. Mounting to the side of the frame or even inside a protected plastic or metal run would be a better solution. On some of my projects, I have run them inside of the frame tubing, even though it is more labor intensive to attach. A lot of OEM runs are inside the C channel of the frame where it is protected.
I'm the last guy who would tell anyone how to do anything. All I'm offering are suggestions for a better or alternative way. In my career, I my oldest fleet equipment I maintain was built in 1939 and also the newest that 2023 has to offer. After doing this stuff day in and day out, you see why the OEM's changed things the way they did. I'm not saying they always get it right, but they do eventually settle in to a safe standard. You just got to keep in mind they do it all, while trying to maximize profits. I always feel we can do better since we have the time and typically, aren't worried about profits.
There's a reason gas tanks aren't mounted in your lap anymore, ala Model A's.
I had to change the placement of a few of the 3M zip tie squares. They stick pretty well but if the surface is textured they can be pulled off if you pull straight up. The sheer pull strength is better. Notice that there are 2 small holes that could be used for screws.
Your suggestions are helpful. The AAW Classic Update kit included 2 malleable metal hooks that bolted through the 2 original holes in my 65 cowl. Those cowl holes are where the harness anchors “buttons” pushed through. A potential leakage point after the plastic anchors broke or rotted.
I appreciate all comments that are intended to help the hobby, yours included. Thanks.
