Finally got the engine bay cleaned out. I can actually get to my engine now. Put new plugs,wires,points,condenser, rotor button and cap on. New coil, oil change, pcv filter cartridge, carburetor rebuild kit should be here today. Ready to fire her up. Had to trace down about 20 lbs of cut (hot) wires that were left hanging when fire truck equipment was removed. It's time consuming running it all down but had to be done. Really can NOT wait to hear the old 401M talk!
Ed that is for sure! I hauled the old wiring off today. Lol had 28 lbs of wire scraps. Most of them went nowhere. When I first checked the truck out it wasn't getting fire. Thought no big deal I was good with engine turning over. Once I tore into it got under it found out why there was no fire. Someone cut the wires going up to the coil and they were literally laying on the frame. After seeing that it made up my mind and EVERYTHING came out. Like you said easier and safer to start from scratch.
Cool truck, congrats. Im actually running a 63 fire truck\water truck 1ton chassis with a 305e motor that looks identical to your "big brother" version. I have it under a 66 cab with a 9 ft stepside bed. What are your plans with the truck? Flatbed? Tow truck? Etc? Keep posting your progress. And keep the pics coming also. ðŸ‘
Thank ya sir! I would love to see the pics on yours. I'm planning on shortening the frame probably 3 Ft and building a homemade flatbed. I'm heading with a rat rod ish look with it. One of the last storms that came through took down a large pine at my parents so I'm going to get my chainsaw mill on it and use those for my wood bed. Well after drying and sealing them anyway. Working with one of our mechanics at the truck yard I'm going to get the air ride and cab shocks off the back of the sleeper of a old wrecked freight shaker to go on the back of my 67 cab. Long way to go but thoroughly enjoying it.
When shortening frames, it is relatively easy to take a piece out behind the cab, rather from the end which involves drilling all new holes for the suspension. Cutoff wheel in hand held grinder makes a cleaner and more accurate cut than a torch. Flange bolts spread load and are handier than using washers.
One item to consider when shortening the frame, expansion cracks on concrete roads can cause more bucking without adjusting the suspension! Bucking is a function of wheelbase and speed, and of course amplitude of cracks. little can be accomplished by lightening suspension!
Ed
Last edited by EdPruss; 03/30/202312:33 PM.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Ed's comment about bucking brings to mind a 1 1/2 ton Non-Bolt I use to have. It just so happened that the short wheelbase on it was almost exactly the same as the distance between those expansion cracks on one of the roads near my house. If you went much over 35 mph, it would bounce you right out of the seat and bang your head on the roof! So it can happen. They've since re-done the road. Plus, I don't have that truck anymore.
Working with one of our mechanics at the truck yard I'm going to get the air ride and cab shocks off the back of the sleeper of a old wrecked freight shaker to go on the back of my 67 cab. Long way to go but thoroughly enjoying it.
If your truck wasn't originally designed for Cab shocks, be careful adding it as this will put stress on things that were never meant to flex...steering, pedal linkages, front clip etc.
