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#1490427 03/03/2023 5:20 AM
Joined: Sep 2015
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'Bolter
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With this new thread I'm asking about the placement of the rubber door seals. Been too many years since I tore down the car. Don't have any AD trucks around to look at. Am I anywhere near right about the placement of these seals? Which one is correct, or neither one?


Thanks, Richard
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20230301_113923.jpg (59.16 KB, 251 downloads)


~ Richard
1952 GMC Army Ambulance
"Building the Dream"
The story begins here in the DITY Gallery
Follow the build in the Project Journals
(If you can't wait, the "final pictures" and details are in Panels & Burbs)
First vehicle-1967 Chevy short bed pickup. Sold when got married frown | 1953 Chevy pickup restored-sold to purchase Toy Hauler trailer | 1964 GMC long bed Pickup 305 big block V/6 bought to restore with son and his 14 yr old son
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
Here’s how I installed mine.
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C8EB94A0-22D4-4B38-BE15-6D02282A4F95.jpeg (143.14 KB, 236 downloads)

Joined: Apr 2012
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NJC Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Sir, Mine were gone. Intuitively though, think about how these suburban carryall doors shut. What I mean is that the driver's door goes shut first & then the passenger door sorta helps seal the entrance up. Having that knowledge, I would put more rubber facing out on the passenger door than I would on the driver side door. Don't take my logically reasoned approach though without checking with seal experts that make rubber seals. That would be Steele Rubber, Denver, NC. Hope this helps. Thanks Richard. V/r, Nick

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NJC Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Sir, A Steele Rubber Products Catalog, which is 3 yrs old. I plan to: 1)buy my rubber products from them; 2) install them; & 3) become an expert. Thanks Richard. V/r, Nick
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20230304_032833.jpg (146.42 KB, 211 downloads)
20230304_033317.jpg (186.52 KB, 211 downloads)

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,100
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,100
I don’t think either one of your samples is correct. I mounted my door seals with the thickest part against the the door and the thinest and shorter lip contacted the body, so it would compress easily.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Bondo Artiste
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Here is mine.
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C3E53498-4CE3-4434-A713-0E450EAF9570.jpeg (113.95 KB, 205 downloads)


~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver
1946 Chevy COE - Might restore one day...
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
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Posts: 775
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Bondo Artiste
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Posts: 775
Here’s a pro tip from Tim L.

Don’t make the same mistake I did. On the left barn door, extent the weatherstripping past the door edge on top to allow it to bridge the gap between the doors to help create a waterproof seal. I didn’t do that on mine and it lets water in.
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5050DC0F-0AD3-4155-8341-70DAABBD5E48.jpeg (119.72 KB, 201 downloads)


~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver
1946 Chevy COE - Might restore one day...
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Another very stupid mistake I made - after many years of opening/shutting my 1954 Chevrolet Suburban's rear door:

Without thinking about what I was doing, I shut the right door first and then I shut the left door (and then I used words that I cannot post here).

This incorrect/unnatural "rear doors closing procedure" took a substantial chip of paint out of the right door.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
The way I posted in my picture was how it came from the factory. Shorter leg near the door, longer leg away. I might have a picture somewhere.

Something else to know about Steele. They make a thicker seal that they say will work better on the rear doors. They usually don't list it in your custom catalog, but they list it in the main catalog.

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NJC Offline
'Bolter
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Sir, Very good to know, regarding purchasing rear door seal material from Steele Rubber, Denver, North Carolina. That is, order from the main catalog & specify it is for the rear doors for a 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall. Thanks Mark, V/r, Nick

Joined: Sep 2015
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'Bolter
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Okay, now I'm totally confused. smile I will go to Steele and check out their thicker seal for the rear doors. That makes sense to me seeing that there is quite a gap there. Will revisit this thread when I have a clearer idea.

Thanks again all.


~ Richard
1952 GMC Army Ambulance
"Building the Dream"
The story begins here in the DITY Gallery
Follow the build in the Project Journals
(If you can't wait, the "final pictures" and details are in Panels & Burbs)
First vehicle-1967 Chevy short bed pickup. Sold when got married frown | 1953 Chevy pickup restored-sold to purchase Toy Hauler trailer | 1964 GMC long bed Pickup 305 big block V/6 bought to restore with son and his 14 yr old son
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
I don't have the time right now, but a search of this forum will find the discussion on the thicker rubber.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
Okay, I found a minute. From previous forum discussions, some say that this is the correct rubber.

Steele Barn Door Seal

When I did my doors, I used the same rubber as the side doors. My rear doors leak. I wasn't too concerned because I have already painted the interior and the rubber is going to get replaced when I paint the exterior. The rubber listed above is what I'm going to buy to reseal my doors after I finish the paint. All this info comes from Tim (tclederman.)

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'Bolter
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Posts: 96
Thanks Mark
Steel created a catalog specific to the 52 GMC Suburban for me. It has that same seal listed. Not cheap though!! They also had the whisker strip for the glass pull bars. It fits real nice. Also not cheap.

Richard


~ Richard
1952 GMC Army Ambulance
"Building the Dream"
The story begins here in the DITY Gallery
Follow the build in the Project Journals
(If you can't wait, the "final pictures" and details are in Panels & Burbs)
First vehicle-1967 Chevy short bed pickup. Sold when got married frown | 1953 Chevy pickup restored-sold to purchase Toy Hauler trailer | 1964 GMC long bed Pickup 305 big block V/6 bought to restore with son and his 14 yr old son
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 390
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NJC Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 390
Sir, So you did buy your rubber components from Steele & are quite satisfied. Correct? Please advise. Thanks Richard. V/r, Nick

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
There is no supplier with better quality or better selection than Steele Rubber.

If that statement is incorrect, please post a link to that valuable competitor.

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 96
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'Bolter
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Posts: 96
I bought the side sliding glass wiper/whisker from Steele. The solid square rubber spacer and run channel and u-channel rubber around the fixed glass from Jim Carter. Had purchased them before looking into Steele. I may go with the cargo door seals from them tho.

Richard


~ Richard
1952 GMC Army Ambulance
"Building the Dream"
The story begins here in the DITY Gallery
Follow the build in the Project Journals
(If you can't wait, the "final pictures" and details are in Panels & Burbs)
First vehicle-1967 Chevy short bed pickup. Sold when got married frown | 1953 Chevy pickup restored-sold to purchase Toy Hauler trailer | 1964 GMC long bed Pickup 305 big block V/6 bought to restore with son and his 14 yr old son

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