The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Hand Crank Starting

Did the crank handles to manually start the engine on AD trucks automatically come with the truck when purchased or were they an extra cost option?

Does anyone sell them? Where were they meant to be stored on the vehicle when new?

As far as I know, they were supplied as original equipment. My truck has one. They were probably stored under the seat. Some sort of padding would be good if you're going to do that. 70 years of rattling around under there might wear a hole thru the floor, helping the rust do that. I have no idea if new ones are available. If you really want one (potential arm breaker), I could measure mine and take some photos for you.

They aren't listed in the Vehicle Info Kit as standard equipment or options, but neither is the tool kit that was provided with each truck.

I don't really need one but it would be interesting to crank start the truck. If one was available for cheap I might buy it just to have it. What other tools were part of the kit?

Have you ever started your truck with the handle?

I think the tool kit included a couple open end wrenches, a pair of pliers, a screwdriver, and some more stuff I can't recall. I think Brad Allen has photos of an AD tool kit on his Flickr account (sorry don't have the link). Found the link Tool Kit Brad says they were discontinued as standard equipment by 1950.

I haven't started my AD with the crank, but have on my Model A that I used to own. Have the scar on my chin to prove it when it kicked back and I hit the radiator cap. I don't think I'll try starting the 216 with a crank.

I started a 1959 Humber Super Snipe with the hand crank provided. It was a 3 liter inline six. British cars still supplied cranks up into the 1970s. Not surprising, really.

Did the hand crank have "Lucas" stamped on it anywhere? Probably not- - - - -then it wouldn't have worked on a rainy day- - - -or even in a heavy fog!
Jerry

The Model A has much larger cylinder than the 216

Now I want to do it just to try it.

Compression test on this engine shows all cylinders around 120psi.

I think it would start pretty easily.

You're right about making sure the key is on. I've forgotten to turn the key on the truck and Packard on several occasions. Then I sit there wondering why they won't start until I notice the dash.

And there's only 4 of them. A 6 cyl might not need as much cranking because there are 3 compression strokes per revolution instead of 2. If things are in good shape, and (on the Model A) the timing is set right, it only takes getting one cylinder past TDC compression to get it going. Other than my one episode (where I probably had the spark advanced), I was able to start that Model A with the crank fairly easily.

Otto Skorzeny In the olden days my Dad said you would jack up a rear wheel put it in gear then crank. As a school kid my class mates would come to school with a cast on a broken arm from cranking (I think Case tractors) that happened to brothers 2 different years. I don't think the tractor kicked,it was because it went on thru.

Make sure someone is available to drive you to the ER (not to mention video the event for all of us).

Thanks. It looks just like the Humber crank handle.

I'm sure it would be easy to hand crank my truck. At least when it's already warmed up, such as after pumping gas, all the starter requires is a light bump, and she's running. I'll never do it though because the replacement radiator doesn't have the recess in the bottom to access the balancer.

I'd be more worried about banging up a nice grill with the handle.

I've seen experienced Model A owners start the engine without using the crank to do the actual starting. With the ignition switch turned off, pull the crank through a couple of turns with the choke closed to prime the cylinders, get one cylinder just past TDC on the compression stroke, then turn the ignition on and move the spark lever from retard to advance. One spark plug will fire and the engine will run.
Jerry

My 47 full dress Harley would start on it's own if you turned on the ignition and retarded the spark once in a great while.

Wouldn't one have to drill a large hole through a lot of front end sheet metal and maybe the radiator and/or frame to get the hand crank to engage the front pulley?

The truck is designed and delivered from factory to accept the hand crank
I’ve started my 1950 1 ton Chevy with the crank (after it had been running, cold is probably not within my physical abilities)
The bottom of the original radiator has a raised center clearance just for the crank that slips in between the grille bars.
-s

On an AD, there's a space thru the lower grille bar for the crank, and the centerline of the pulley is above the front crossmember. The original radiators have a tunnel in the lower tank to clear the crank. I haven't inspected my radiator to see if that's there, or if it was replaced at some point in it's history with a radiator without that tunnel.
The attached pic shows the notch in the lower grille bar toward the back of the pic. That's the one that attaches to the lowest grille bar.
That link that buoymaker posted above to another thread has some discussions about the crank provisions.

Chevs of the 40's still sells hand cranks.

Pretty neat. $63 is a bit steep for a novelty item, though.

A piece of steel round stock and a rosebud torch would be another option.
Jerry

Agreed. With the dimensions that were posted, it'd be a pretty easy fab job.

Yes, it would be if I had a torch. If I get some 3/4" dia stock I'll have my muffler shop friend make me one.

Otto I made a crank for my Farmall,soon learned that you need a tubular handle on your crank to prevent slipping the hyde around on your palms. V-4 Wisconsin crank is made that way, works fine. Even an easy starting 216 would take it's toll I think. need to get a groove turned into the crank before you bend it to key this tubular handle on it.

Why use one?
Same reason as why girls watch Harley owners kick-start their bikes.
Modern H-D don't have kickers, so you can buy a kit that looks like one, but it's totally non-functional.

The size of the cylinder (and to a lesser degree, it's CCP) is more important than L4 vs. L6: the ratchet's mechanical advantage can make as many rotations vs. crankshaft turns that appear to work.

There is one item you will need to find or fabricate.
It is a stamped metal hand crank bracket which attaches to the bumper by the center bumper bolt.
It has a hole in it for the hand crank to pass through. It is designed to prevent one from destroying the grill if one were to lose control of the hand crank when it is force out of the damper and found its way back in again once the engine starts.
Denny Graham has diagrams to go off of to fabricate one of these brackets.

Anybody who makes more than 1/2 turn with a hand crank is an idiot- - - -and always pull UP, don't ever push the handle down. Keep your thumb alongside your fingers- - - -don't grip the crank handle!
Jerry

I have a hand crank. It came with my truck. Anybody want it, just pay the freight. I know this should go in the want adds but, I'm not advertising it, just joining the conversation. My 59 235 does not have the damper to accept a crank. It was under the seat or what was left of a seat. LOL

What happened to the link to the picture of the handle with the dimensions? It seems to have disappeared.

One of the AD trucks I've owned had the original tool kit (was sort of a plastic coated heavy canvas that reminded me of the old VW tool bags but larger). No crank was in there. I asked at the parts dept of one of Dallas first Chevy dealers and the guy told me the cranks were only provided up until 1950 or 1951 and he wasn't certain they were ever provided with the 235 engine. I mentioned my 235 had the crank provision on the harmonic balancer and he said somebody probably swapped the original for the 216 balancer when it fell off or something.

My Canadian build 1953 235 engines all have the hand crank balancer on the front of the engine
But that doesn’t necessarily mean the USA models do
Also I’m not sure if the gmc truck has clearance for the crank like the Chevy does
But our Canadian gmc trucks have the Chevy engines with the hand crank balancer installed
Likely it was because to limit skews they just all got the hand crank capable pulley?
I have to check next time im at my truck if the hand crank fits through the gmc grille.
-s

Attached two photos
The stock 235 ballencer with narrow belt for a 53 model year Chevy engine in a gmc truck. And the stock radiator in a gmc that blocks the center access

The 53 gmc cannot be hand cranked
The grille and radiator do not allow it.

This engine is number matching to the door tag
And is the only configuration I’ve ever seen, all 216/235 engines up to at least 53 have the hand crank pulley mounted.
-s

Yep, that's a hand crank pulley but no way to use it.

Just curious, how can a Chevy engine in a GMC truck have "engine is number matching to the door tag"?
By the way, GMC door tags did not have an engine number.

Canadian GMC's used Chevy engines. It's possible the ID tags were different than USA production, also.
Jerry

Canadian production all had a body serial number and the engine number stamped
And all but the largest gmc trucks used Chevy engines
All Canadian trucks and parts were made in Canada with rare exception so many small design details were unique for the smaller market
Example Canadian serial tag image attached
-s

Ahh those darn canukdrums.

Oooooppps! I forgot about Canadian GMCs.

In the old highschool days dad had a 1960 Datsun with a 4cyl engine, I'd warm it first and then hand crank start it, other kids loved it.
I have also in years past hand crank started a 14 cylinder aircraft engine.