The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Clutch Linkage

Here is a pic of how my linkage is setup at the moment.
It appears that it might be better suited with the end of the
fork cut off so I can get the linkage closer and more parallel
What do you guys think? 1959

Guitplayer,

I think your actuating rod pivot link needs to be flipped 180 degrees and mounted so the threaded stud goes through the pedal hole pointing towards the center of the truck (securing nut should be on the inside of the pedal arm instead of the outside).

That will change the rod position to a better parallel alignment and make your setup operate better.

The pic from the '55.2 series Shop manual attached below doesn't really show it but the pivot attaching nut should be on the inner side of the pedal mounting hole.

Dan

The clutch release fork shown in your photo is from an early to mid 60's truck. it is not correct for a 59 and below vehicle.
It should look like the one Dan posted above.
Fred

Yes, its on a 327. Flipping the rod pivot put the rod to
close to the crossmember frame and rubbed.
So I am fitting the clutch linkage on a 59 to a mid 60s 327.
This bell housing...

From Fred's comment that you are using a later model clutch release fork, will the correct year clutch release fork for the originally available 265's/283's work with the shown bell housing???

I have no personal knowledge on that clutch release arm, so can't say yay or nay.

What do you think Fred???

Dan

NOTE: See added snapshot of clutch release fork parts data

This is the one I am using. Its a replacement of/for what was there.
My 58 ,also with a 327 has a shorter different arm than what I have here.
Not like anything for a 58/59 originally.
Its looks modded some.

It doesn't matter what year the bellhousing came from or what engine you are using, that is not the correct release arm
for a 58 truck. (Or any TF truck)
It needs to have the correct offset arm as I indicated previously. All TF trucks regardless of engine size (v8 or 6) or which manual
transmission it has, all used the same fork.
That one is for the later trucks.
Fred

Guitplayer,

FWIW, after some further delving into the GMpartswiki search, the following info relates to the "clutch fork" noted by Fred above that you can use to get everything back in alignment:

Parts Group 0.795 Clutch fork, release GM# 839240

Used in applications:

1940-54 All Passenger cars *
1947-55.1 All Commercial/Utility Truck (1st Series)
1955.2-59 All Trucks (2nd Series) w/6 cylinder & 8 cylinder engines (except 322 and 348)
1960-62 C-20&30 Trucks Double Duty w/6 cylinder engines
* Included this info just as a potential source (same part) for acquiring what you may be looking for.

Hope this is of some help in resolving your problem.

Dan

Thanks!! I`ll try one out. 1940 — 1962 Chevrolet NOS Clutch Release Fork GM # 839240

Sounds good sir!

Would love to see follow-up pics and comments on how it works out if you can.

Dan

Will do.

Guitplayer,
I sent you a PM
Fred

Thanks

Guitplayer G dad may be right,have to try it,don't rush into cutting the arm off it will really stiffen your clutch action up. Saw one once where the guy used chain links so the engine could torque a little. I thought that was a pretty good idea !

I have a 64 327 in my 57 1/2 ton. It looks as though you’re going to be okay with the proper clutch fork, but I’ll follow this post in case anything else needs changing. Good luck.

Larry

Thanks! Are you using the stock clutch rod?
I have a threaded eye bolt with the pivot I can
adjust to any length. or is there enough adjusting at the clutch fork linkage.

Can I get to the clutch fork to replace without dropping
or backing out transmission?

I have the complete clutch linkage as shown in the Factory Assembly Manual RPO 408. I can take a picture and send it if that will help.

Here’s a couple of pics of my setup. The tension spring usually is hooked to an oil pan bolt, but I made a bracket off my steering box for a straighter alignment.

Here’s the stock picture for a 6 cylinder engine, but it’s very similar to the V8.

Thanks! That helps alot. I have my return spring thru the side of the frame.
next to steering box.

Glad to help.

This works well now.
Moved the clutch rod to stock length.
It was looking like I`d have to drop the transmission to remove the
fork. I put it together that way.
I made the mistake of thinking what I had bought at one
time all worked together at some point.

Well it looks as though you’ve got it for now. Maybe consider using the earlier model clutch fork when it’s time for a new clutch disc or TO bearing. Happy Trucking.

Yep. I was also concerned about the new throwout bearing
not fitting the old fork quite right and rattling.

I am using the same fork and bell housing with my LS swap in my 51. I cut the end off and have no problems with mine.

I switched out the clutch fork for the right one.
Made a big difference in shifting/pedal travel.
Seems all that back and forth linkage motion is working the way it should.
Lined up proper.
I had to back the trans off a few inches to be able to back out that pivot ball set screw
on the bell housing. Used those headless top bolts again. Valuable info there.