The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine Won't Start - What Now

After two months and alot of reading and help from this website I have the engine on my '53 3100 turning over, but I cannot get it to start and I am running my head into the wall trying to find next steps (this is first engine I have ever worked on)
1)I chased down a whole host of electric issues that resulted in new plugs, plug wires, coil, and a distributor cap as well as replacement of a random wire that was broken
2) Cleaned points in distributor and reset gap
3) Rebuilt carb

Engine turns over -- sounds smooth and oil is moving, I get a faint poof sound as it turns over... it isn't consistent, but it sounds like

My gut tells me I screwed something up rebuilding the carb, but a friend mentioned maybe the timing is jacked up.

After 2 weeks of tinkering, googling, and cursing trying to get past this point I am looking for advice on how to get past this hurdle and hopefully avoid a couple of weeks of wasted time

Couple of notes
1) Waiting on a fuel pump rebuild kit so I am gravity feeding out of a bottle into carb
2) Engine supposedly ran in 2008 was parked until I brought it to PA late last year first tried to crank it in January this year and two valves were seized and I broke rocker arms, everything in fuel line had to be replaced it was gummed up and gaskets decayed

All internal combustion engines need the same things to run- - -

Fuel
Air
Spark
Compression
Valve timing
Ignition timing

Any one of these going wrong will keep it from running, or at least running "right". Never, ever "assume" things are correct- - - -until you prove beyond any doubt that something's right, you have to suspect that it's wrong. Fortunately, each one of these things has a specific method of proving it's correct. Pick one item, check it out until you're sure it's right, and move on to the next one. Don't bounce around from one system to another.
Jerry

Just curious if it pops at all like it might start? Have you primed the engine with ether or fuel?

Have you checked to see if you have spark at the dizzy and then at individual plugs?

Go back to the basics. First thing I would do is confirm where in your distributor the number one cylinder is. I would then trace all you spark plug wires and confirm they go to the correct cylinder. A diagram will show you where the number one cylinder is in the distributor but that does not mean it is correct. If someone over the life of that engine had the distributor out they could have change the position. You will need to rotate the engine by hand with the number one plug out. Have someone cover the plug hole with a thumb and confirm when the compression pushes their thumb off the opening and that the cylinder is sitting top dead center. That should have the rotor pointing at your number one cylinder. Re-confirm you plug wires from there. I had mine running but it had a minor random backfire. I finally figured out I had crossed two wires even though I had checked them several times. It is easy to do. Harbor Freight sells a cheap spark tester. Confirm you have voltage/spark to your spark plug. Once you have done that you can focus on fuel.

My engine came from the "junk" yard. I suspect that they pulled the distributor in the process of painting and put it back in 180 deg. off. I got nothing but "pop-n-bang" when cranking. I went with the lazy man's method of switching wire 1 and 6, 2 and 4, etc., on the distributor cap, instead of yanking out the distributor all together. Problem solved.

William mangum Sounds like no spark,otherwise would pop and crack and backfire. Take your cap and wires off out of the way,hold the coil wire 1/4 inch from the head (ground) break the points with a stick it should spark each break, if not check coil,condenser,points,wire,key gotta be on,test for voltage at coil connections. Keep on till you get "fire" While your fuel pump is coming in can just put fuel in carb thru the vent to fill the bowl,wouldn't use starting fluid too dry I use chainsaw mix for some lube. It can run long enough to look for oill pressure and leaks. Be sure valves have clearence and are free to go,if the starter whips it over with the plugs out should be able to feel powerful compression with your thumb. Then check firing order like was said ,Once it starts blowing up your on your way !! BIG FUN !! Now your neighbors may not like this especially at night !! Good Luck Stovebolter...a disease you may never get over. 153624 clockwise

I think I would start with compression. Get a compression testor, not expensive and test the compression. Should be in the range of 100-150 per cylinder depending on wear. Anything less makes the motor suspect. If the motor comes up to specification for compression, then I am with the others, check to see that the distributor is set up correctly.

Trace your No. 1 wire to the distributor. Directly under the tower for No.1 wire, put a vertical chalk or paint pen line directly under the center of the No.1 tower. Remove all the plugs and put thumb over (not in, lol) the plug hole. Crank until you feel a puff of compression. Then look at the timing pointer and flywheel at the bellhousing. Rotate the motor clock wise by hand using the fan belt. Keep a very sharp eye for a mark on the flywheel that looks suspiciously like a little steel BB imbedded in the flywheel. Get the BB to line up with the pointer. Remove your distributor cap. the rotor should be pointing pretty close to, if not exactly on, the paint stripe you put on the distributor body.

If its not, loosen the screw on the distributor clamp, not the Hold down bolt, and turn the distributor so the rotor lines up with the chalk mark. Put it all back together and give it a go and see what it does..

The most common error in a "cranks OK- - - -won't start" situation is firing the spark plugs at the wrong point in the 4-stroke cycle. The pistons reach the top of the stroke twice (and the timing marks line up) on both the compression and the exhaust stroke. It's easy to get the timing "180 degrees out" if the distributor or the spark plug wires have been tinkered with. There's an idiot-proof way to get it right, but it involves removing the valve cover. Most people would rather guess about it than do that.
Jerry

I believe that he said that he solved his problem 4 posts ago.

Not according to the telephone conversation we had a few hours ago.
Jerry

Not the OP.

My bad. I did not notice that the post which I read was from a random interloper.

Random interlopers do have a place, Carl. Not that I have unconscious biases, but I do prefer systematic and methodical interlopers too.

I do hope that the solution to the No start issue is posted here.

dgrinnen Your instructions are right on the money,have helped others to "get one running " that way even over the phone. They were sure proud of there work too !!

I am certain that I have done more than my share of "random interloping" on numerous threads over the years. I meant no offence to the current interloper on this thread. Actually it was more like I was obfuscating my responsibility to pay attention to who was posting what, and attempted to pawn it off onto someone else who was guilty of nothing that I haven't done many times myself.
I am now going to stand, facing a corner, and think about what I have done.

52 carl Well said Carl... I too have "stepped in it" (and been called down for it) I sometimes almost fall out of my chair when others get their "cheeks"chapped from stuff said on stovebolt. I guess that's why I come here every day!! Cheeks are in fare shape at this time !! Now those Harley girls with those chaps that got no protection back there...don't know about them hmmm !!

Yes, Carl. An innocent story or comment can become quite a conflagration and public flogging. I’ll never measure up, I guess.

Nonetheless, fixing old engines, and finding solutions to these old trucks is much, much better.

I returned from a 6 month self imposed exile - the old cheeks got a good whooping awhile ago.

Back to the elbow grease and let’s see if this starting issue gets resolved.

Many of us have said this many times in the past, in many ways. But this is the best, short, complete statement anyone can initially make to someone with "crank but no fire".

"All internal combustion engines need the same things to run- - -

Fuel
Air
Spark
Compression
Valve timing
Ignition timing

Any one of these going wrong will keep it from running, or at least running "right". Never, ever "assume" things are correct- - - -until you prove beyond any doubt that something's right, you have to suspect that it's wrong. Fortunately, each one of these things has a specific method of proving it's correct. Pick one item, check it out until you're sure it's right, and move on to the next one. Don't bounce around from one system to another.
Jerry"

I hesitate to say much because we don't know what's going on with phone calls or PM's. Your lack of response says you may be getting it figured out with that help. I also like to go offline on electrical myself, to prevent endless posts back and forth. Electrical and no-start take a long time. The drawback is the group and the archive does not get manifest. I try and hope the OP"s do a recap.

In cases like this, YOU MUST FIRST check for spark. Spark does not care about valves, timing, fuel or compression. It's all electrical except for the odd distributor mechanical component failure. Like broken gear or you left out the rotor, bad points, wrong gap. Once you have spark then you figure out why it won't explode gas.

William hasn't responded since the 16th.

Reading his previous post and looking at his pictures, the rocker arms that broke are the ones that have new looking pushrods (#6 and #7). Looks like the previous owner was having problems. He did say, "I did soak the cylinders with penetrating oil and couldn't get the two stuck cylinders to move". Not good.

Everybody knows how difficult it is to help someone when the poster doesn't include vital follow-up information. It's like trying to play checkers when you can't see your opponent's move.

If it was me, I would make sure the engine will rotate (not run) and not hang-up for at least 30 seconds, using the starter motor. Once I was satisfied the rotation was normal, I would do a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) test. With the spark plugs removed and throttle open, see how much cylinder pressure is measured. This could be a situation of stuck and/or cracked piston rings.

"Engine turns over -- sounds smooth and oil is moving."

Locking this thread. The OP hasn’t posted any additional info since this first post on the 17th, and nothing but speculation has been added. If he needs further assistance, he can post a new thread.