The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Front leaf spring removal question

Hi all,
I need to get my front leaf springs out to get them re-arched. I want to make sure I do this correctly and safely! What is the proper order of steps to accomplish this?

Leaf springs are pretty simple. Unbolt the shackles, unbolt the u-bolts, remove springs.

If you are careful, you can lift up the frame to unload the springs and support the axles so you don't have to unhook the brakes/steering. Just make sure that the axle is well supported so it can't hang from the brakes/steering or twist on them.

That would be a good time to check all of your spring bushings and make sure they are in good condition. I personally recommend replacing the u-bolts while you have it out.

Doug,

Guessing that you have the truck supported on jack stands under the frame.

Once you place a jack under the axle to unload the weight off the springs to unbolt everything, maybe use a couple ratchet straps hung over the frame rails and supporting the axle to keep it in place and not stress brake lines/hoses and such as mentioned before unbolting the springs and hangers.

Safety 1st as the saying goes.

Dan

Dan,
That's correct. I will place jack stands under the frame to support the truck. That makes sense to use the jack to support the axle and unload everything. I want to be very cautious and not allow the springs to pop on me. That's a good call on the ratchet straps to add additional support for the brake lines/hoses.

Is there a proper order on removing the bolts for the springs? Front shackles? Rear shackles? U-bolts?

The springs are not “loaded” (like a coil spring might be), once you support the frame and the springs droop you can unbolt without fear of it biting you.

Doug,

Here is a snapshot from my '48-'51 Shop Manual on front spring removal procedure.

Pretty sure the '53 is the same as what is in here. Others that may have added info or insight will chime in at some point.

Dan

Hank,

Agree with your assessment. My point was to take the weight of the axle "just barely" off the springs and securing the axle so the springs can be dropped by their lonesome.

Dan

Just be aware that the weight of the hubs and the geometry of the spindles will make it want to flip over once you unbolt the springs. You want to make sure it can't do that because will stress your drag link and brake lines.

(That is assuning you take the wheels off for access, if you leave the wheels on the axle will hang flat-ish. Still be careful not to rotate it too far, but it won't try as hard on its own.)

This job is in my near future. Never thought about this. Good tip.

I surely wouldn't know that would add stress to the brake lines and drag link. For sure I will remove the tires to gain access to the springs. Thanks for all the tips guys!

I would leave the wheels on. Mainly to keep the front axle from flipping over as Fibonachu mentioned. Except for getting at the u-bolts holding the springs to the axle, there's no need to remove wheels for access to either front shackles or the rear spring mounts. The springs will have a tendency to flip over once loose, but if you're careful, that won't be an issue. Once the last fastener is loose, turn the springs over to pull them out the front of the truck. I think I'd get the u-bolts loose first, then the rear mounts at the frame, then go to the front shackles. Put them back the reverse way. Front shackle, rear frame mount, then u-bolts.

[on edit] Be sure to block both front wheels so the axle doesn't try to roll away (and probably the rear wheels for safety.)

This is going to sound like a really asinine question but am really interested as mine need to either be re-arched or replaced. What kind of shop would one take their leaf springs to to have them re-arched? What would be the price and would it be cheaper than buying new with shipping. With my 55 1st, I'm looking at $1300 plus shipping (new). If I can find a shop to take them to around here and if it's cheaper; well you know where I'm going (durn, I really get long winded ALOT).


S2

Stewart**2

Contact Eaton Detroit for spring re-arching or to obtain new ones.

Eaton Detroit Spring, Inc. New leaf springs and coil springs
1555 Michigan Avenue, Detroit, MI 48216
313-963-3839
http://www.eatonsprings.com/

Is this a half ton? I assume a 55 first has the same springs as a 54? If so, check Rock Auto. Springs shouldn’t cost you nearly that much.

I was going to have my top leaves reproduced by the local spring shop (Alaska Spring) as the eyes were worn thru past the bushings, but after inspection, found that the lower leaves had worn into the ones above it. They also said that reproducing just the top leaf would cost just as much as new springs, so that's the way I went. Here's a couple pics of springs that are way past useful (from another chassis I had.) Make that way past DANGEROUS!! Note that the rear eyes were completely worn thru.
Be sure to inspect carefully before you decide what to do.

Look at your springs for excessive rust and pitting while considering re arcing them, Jim Carter sells new perfectly matching original US made springs $250-$300 each, and they come with new end bushings installed (at least mine did).
Most of us have a local(ish) spring shop, usually truck related, that you can price re-arc, my springs were very flat so I saw value in knowing what I was putting in was best available, some folks have complained that re-arc settled back, but that can be as much who did it (and did they really re-arc every leaf)….
Btw: if you get new you can replace them sequentially, ie:one at a time, no issues with the axel rotating or running away…

Exactly why I went with new springs.

Ya, Rock Auto has them for less than $120 each which includes the bushings. Can't beat that with a stick.

Well guys I was able to get the springs removed without too much of a fight. The ratchet strap tip was great! Especially when removing the last spring. I ended up taking the tires off. I think the axle rotated about 10 degrees, so I don't think I did any damage to any brake lines or the drag link. They will all get replaced soon, so it's no big deal if I had.

I decided to re-arch because of the cost difference. I have a local shop that does pretty good work. The cost is $85 per spring. I'm putting all new hardware in. Since I had so much undercoating on my truck when I purchased it, there is very little rust on my truck. That's why I decided to re-arch versus replace.

Take your U-bolts with you and have the spring shop make you new ones...they are a one time only bolt due to them being stretched when torqued.

Mike B

Glad the tips and info helped out Doug!

Your springs and hardware actually look to be in very good shape, from what can be seen.

X2 for Mike B's comment about the "U-bolts". From a safety and peace of mind standpoint, you won't regret spending the little bit extra.

When you can, don't forget to let us know how the re-arch went and some "after" pics of the springs/axle reinstalled would be enjoyed and appreciated.

Dan

I will post some pictures up when I get them back from the shop. I'm definitely going to put all new hardware on the springs when I get them put back in. Thanks for your time Dan!

Just for a price reference, these are for AD fronts:

St. Louis Spring, which is a drivable distance for me, will make up new front springs with bushings for $150ish each. Or they will rearch and rebush for $120ish each.

The Dorman part # listed on RockAuto is available on Amazon with free shipping for $130ish. I’m quite certain Dorman is it making their own springs, but I can’t figure out if their source is offshore or US.

I suspect it would be very hard to come out ahead with the rearching approach if you had to ship both of ways. Even if you could find a shop that does it cheaper.

Thank you everyone. I apologize for partly stealing this thread. Yes, it's a half ton 3100. And that $1300 plus shipping was for both front and rear. My front springs look like they're arched the opposite way (or just flat) and the rears are almost flat. I also found out that the rear springs for the '55.1s are somewhat different than the ones for the '54s. I think the pin is in a different place? Living in southern Maryland, there aren't an abundant number of shops that do the re-arching and none that seem to advertise. But all the prices that have been sent seem quite a bit cheaper than what I've come across for new ones ($550 for both fronts and $750 for both rears). So, looks like more research is required on my astrology charts. Thanks again all and I, too, would like to see the finished re-arching endeavor before and after application if possible, please.

S2

Stewart

Don't worry too much about the flatness of the springs. They're pretty flat to begin with. Is there a specific reason that you think your springs need to be replaced or re-arched?

I assume you have new shock absorbers and good wheels and tires. How does the truck handle?

If anyone is interested, I can measure my new spring packs for the curvature of the front springs. But I'll need to wait till the snow melts off it.
It has melted a bit since that pic was taken.

Hi, Otto. The front springs LOOK like they're convex instead of concave; the back LOOK pretty much flat. Also, looking at it from the back end, looks like it's lower on the passenger side. And the right rear leaf springs LOOK more flat than the left. And this p/u has made 2 round trips down to Venezuela and Peru on the Pan American Hwy from Arizona back in the late '50s and '60s, pulled a mobile home all over AZ, been as far north as Beale AFB, CA and as far east as Tinker AFB, OK till now. So, it's had a long hard life. But, you said that the springs are pretty flat anyway, so maybe it's just me. Yes, it does have brand new shocks; the tires are OOOOOoooolllldddd tires (put on so I could load it on a trailer to get it out here to Maryland from the desert storage of 16 yrs in New Mexico). So It's not drivable yet because also have to replace/repair the engine and replace wiring and parts that someone thought they needed more than I did. Plan on making it my daily driver so want it to pass this @#$%$#@ road worthy inspection they have here (at least we don't have the smog testing yet). Anyway, that's why I was thinking I need new springs.
Again, sorry to be so long winded.

S2

Yes, Kevin. That would be great! We only had a small flurry and it didn't stick this winter. It's been absolutely GRAND!!!!!! As far as I'm concerned, definitely wait till it gets ALOT warmer.

S2

Stewart, it does sound like your springs are likely worn out if they are convex and the body is sitting at different heights side to side.

Front springs arching upward is definitely not the way they should look. I'll see if I can get a picture of mine. They don't have much curve at all. The truck drives and handles just fine so I don't think they're worn out. It spent its working life on a farm but it hasn't been used to pull a trailer or do any seriously heavy work that I can tell.

As you can see, there is only a slight arch in the front springs of my truck. Certainly they have settled in the last 73 years but they're still springy and the truck tracks true so I don't think they're shot.

Yes, mine are much flatter than yours. I was rreeeaaally hoping it was my imagination. But no such luck. Like I said lots more research for me. Thank you, Otto.

As the springs go flatter and flatter the shackles ( which are ideally vertical) will pivot to the point they touch the frame, which to put it mildly throws out how the spring should operate, with no pivot left to absorb the stretching spring, forces are sent to places they should not be…….

So, Hank, if I were to jack up the truck and let the front suspension hang free, presumably it would reach a point where that front shackle is verticle and would give me an indication of how much arch the front springs should have when new and sitting on the ground?

You can do much better than guesstimating spring length
Check specs at the old car manual website then verify what that will look like under your truck…

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/index.html

Front Springs on my 46 were so flat the shackle was fully up against the frame, huge ride and ride height difference when a new set of springs and hardware went in…..
Btw, my Jim Carter springs were from St Louis Spring, his have the eyes bent facing per the original design, which on my 46 is not how i normally expect see them…

Our closest spring shop is in Bladensburg (PG County)...here's their contact info. Note all three shops listed are under the same ownership, so you'll get the same info from them all.

http://rsleafspring.com/contact-us.aspx

Mike B

As long as you're looking for springs, find a source for tapered shims to get the caster right. It will be different with new springs if the front end has ever been aligned and the shims changed. Mine has 3 degree shims, for example. These can also be used for u-joint angle compensation.

NAPA has them around here.

Ed

Challenger Pilot In another life I done leaf springs on big fertilizer trucks. Our spring shop does all that,learned to always re-arch leaf springs cold,in other words just bend em. They had a press that would hurt em,they would get the main leaf bent to a certain hight then bend all others to just lay right on there...bolt it up,put on the wrappers. Be sure you go in there when they make your u-bolts,that 2 inch thick bench is there for a reason. My 7/8 ths. U-bolts bent like wire when the guy stepped on the button !!!

My front springs are back and now installed. It was a bit of a fight to get all the new parts (third party) to line up. The truck now sits totally different from when I first purchased back in November. Hopefully they'll settle in a little bit as I drive it.

Thanks for the help on this project. Next up will be the tie rod, tie rod ends, and king pins. Then I'll have a pretty new bottom end.