The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Dual Carb Issues

I didn't spend much time on this, went through about 25 percent of the W-1 stuff currently on ebay:

115647114670
115424715545
154606995498

Used cores, all

Didn't look for rebuilts, but I wouldn't look for rebuilts on ebay.

Jon.

Jon, a lot of stovebolters want quick, effortless fixes for problems they were probably instrumental in creating in the first place. Buying a rebuildable core carburetor and making it work correctly involves a 4-letter word that scares them. It's called "WORK".
Jerry

Rebuilding a carburetor (at least the Carter YF) is a 3 letter word; F-U-N.

It's quite satisfying when you re-install it and the vehicle starts immediately and runs correctly.

Thanks Jon.

I was interested in learning what I would have to do in a similar situation as Tom (replacing 2X YF with 2X W-1).
Looking for used carburetors, I noticed that the correct models you need don't jump out and bite you on the leg. Searching required.
First thing is to look for a rectangular ID tag. The first carburetor listed by Jon has a tag but the others do not.
Second is the stamped number on the throttle base (picture) which are not visible in the ebay pictures.
Third is to visit (https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/CarterChevroletW1.htm) and compare pictures and text description.
Look for 4-hole bowl covers, and 3-hole airhorns to quickly differentiate from the pre 1937 models.
I don't have a practiced eye for the W-1 but there is a visual difference between 1939/40 420S and the change in 1941 and after with the 483S/574S.
So looking at the carburetors Jon listed, visually they look like what I need but it's pot luck on their condition.
Buy 3 carburetors in hopes of having 2 good ones or maybe have one extra for spare? Couldn't hurt.
$85.00 + $22.00 Shipping + $80.00 + $13.00 shipping + $74.99 + $8.00 shipping = $282.99
Now I want matched carburetors. Both 483S and 574S parts are interchangeable. It sure would be nice to have two of the same model but...
I MUST verify that all components, jets, metering rods, air passages etc. are identical. Verify against my Carter W-1 spec sheet.

All of the above just to get to square one.

Next I have to check for worn parts especially the throttle shaft, check for warpage (shouldn't be any), buy more parts and repair.
Thorough cleaning.
Purchase carburetor 3 kits (Ethanol tolerant) and assemble.
Adjustments to spec (allowing for Ethanol gas).
Make modifications to the throttle linkage.
Adapt/modify fuel lines.
Attach manual choke and bracket.
Follow procedure for synchronization of dual carbs (https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Dual1barrelcarbs.htm).
Top it off with 2 new air cleaners or reuse the ones from the YF.

Screw that! Buy a single carb manifold and a Carter YF and call it a day!

I agree Otto. It's a lot less hassle.
It's like Jerry was hinting at, you can't just snap your fingers and make it happen.
The OP is probably long gone now but I'm satisfied that the questions have been answered.

Jerry - methinks you might be a wee bit harsh in this judgement.

However, every enthusiast must decide on their goal(s) for a given vehicle. After doing a few, it becomes obvious that these goals are best set prior to the beginning of the project. These goals can change during the duration of the project, sometimes by others. In my case, my wife of "classfied" years has never said "honey, when is that piece of xxxx going to run"!

I possibly have an unusual way of looking at these projects. (1) nothing is work, everything is fun, a time to relax, (2) time is not an object, it will be done when it is done, (3) do it once, and hopefully not do it again, (4) each solved issue is cause for celebration, and finally (5) the journey is much more important than the finished project.

When you were here, you saw the green coupe (no, not the John Deeres) in the storage building. It isn't a Chevy, and it isn't a truck; so will describe only as to goals. So what were my initial goals?

(1) Vehicle had to remain "stock" in appearance to all but the most knowledgeable enthusiasts.
(2) Power had to at least double from the original engine - accomplished 200 HP--->435 HP
(3) Body mass had to be reduced by 20 percent - accomplished 3685 pounds--->2750 pounds
(4) Car had to be streetable - accomplished, but only after modifications on a carburetor I have been told repeatedly is way too large for the engine (850 CFM on 350 CID)
(5) Body mass to be reduced by 30 percent - NOT quite accomplished (I never found anyone with an English wheel that needed carburetor work). This goal has now been eliminated.


Much of goals (1), (2), and (3) were accomplished with the aid of my son, creating lasting memories for both of us (more than fun)!

How long did goals (1), (2), (3), and (4) require? Only 28 years. There were delays during this time; as as example, it took 18 months to find the necessary parts to be able to use the exhaust manifolds of choice. The ellusive part? The steering drop link. During the search, other accomplishments were made.

This vehicle has never been to a show, and never will be as long as I own it. I built it for my own enjoyment.

Finally, my son has indicated more than once that he wishes to inherit this vehicle (more satisfaction).

I would sincerely HOPE that no one who frequents these forums really considers "working" on their vehicle "work"!

Oh, and some portions of the project are more fun than others; removing an old brake system is no where near as much fun as restoring a carburetor!

Jon

Jon, I agree in principle. There must be a sharp line drawn between a hobby, and putting beans and bacon on the table and a roof over the kids' heads. I spent a pretty good portion of my working career doing that from a practical standpoint by fixing cars and charging a fair price for the best quality work I knew how to do, while maintaining a practical approach to the whole situation. I had (and still have) no "brand loyalty" whatsoever- - - -they're all just parts, and the name some manufacturer puts on his product doesn't impress me. If someone wants to get anal-retentive about Ford VS Chevy, or Harley Davidson VS Honda, more power to him- - - -I'm probably going to ignore him and go on about my business.

Doing outrageously dumb stuff for people with more money than brains was the way I made my "play money" once the essentials of providing for my family was accomplished with a flat rate manual and an honest day's work. They paid for the privelege at rates far beyond what anyone with a few brain cells to rub together would tolerate, and they did it gladly because my work accomplished what they were trying to do more often than not. I was not above applying the P.T. Barnum rule to people with a deep pocket and an impossible dream. Like another great philosopher once said (W.C. Fields)- - - -"it's morally wrong to let a sucker keep any money in his pocket!"

LOL!
Jerry

Jon - Do English wheels use SU carbs?

Bill - I guess it depends on your definition of "wheels" !

The English wheel operator for whom I was searching would have fabricated aluminum hood, bumpers, truck lid, and maybe doors for me.

Jon

Jesse James remarked that an English wheel also causes blood to squirt out from your fingernails.

Well, I had to look up that citation. Thanks for giving me a reason to increase my learning.

Jon

Which 850 CFM carburetor that isn't supposed to work on a 350 are you running?

Carter 4846sa Competition Series

Jon

ThermoQuad I presume?
I hear tell that the upper secondary valve adjustments allow one to tweak when, and how they open, thus de-tuning to the point that they will work on a small block. So I have read.

True, however the carb was designed as race-only, not for street use. And it isn't on a "small block"

Jon