The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 45 Chev, 53 Chev cracked block

HI I was asked to post pictures and more information so I started a new thread.

I have a 45 Chev panel that I bought in 1968. I put a 53 chev engine in it about 1968, and rebuilt the engine. I used it throughout the 70's going to University and then again for several years after I was married in 77. The back story is, the truck ran perfectly until I moved and had to store it at a paid for storage lot. The lot changed hands and a fool put water in the engine in winter and tried to hot wire it to move it off the property. They drained the rad but not the block, and the block split on the drivers side just back of the front edge. So I will post more in the question area. I pulled the engine today and will repair the block with an epoxy method CAT uses on their blocks. It is a long way from when it used to run like a clock, but I hope to get it running again and use it.

Here are the pictures I just took showing the pulling of the engine, the bell housing bolt holes at the top of the engine and the long crack in the block.

Before I cleaned the engine or pulled it I thought the crack was about 4"long, now it looks like it could be almost 3/4 of the length of the block. Why the frost plugs didn't pop is a mystery, I thought that was their purpose. CAT uses an epoxy and drill and tap technique to fix cracked blocks. But I have to recheck and see if this can be used on a crack this long.

Iwill build a support for the front engine mount and attach it to the engine stand. I welded the engine balance and hoist plate so it is not that difficult. I want to start the engine on the stand.

I had hoped to fix the block and start the engine, now I am not sure of the amount of damage done.The engine had less that 5k miles on the rebuild before it was cracked. It has been in my garage for about 30 years. I bought it when I was 20, 55 years ago. I still love this truck. Everything is made to be worked on. a 1/2, 9/16 " wenchs remove about 90 % of everything, the rest are 7/16, 5/8". The whole system unblocks and there is lots of room to work on any part of the truck. The rear single acting shocks that look like a master brake cylinder were still working in 1995 and never had been filled or repaired. They have a plug like a master cylinder to add fluid. A pleasure compared to my F350 that I hate working on.

So any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Man that is a long crack!! Hope you can get it fixed. There's another crack repair process that uses overlapping threaded plugs, but that crack, going thru some of the reinforcement webs on the block, may be too big to dependably repair.
BTW, the "frost plugs" aren't really for that purpose. They're core plugs and used to hold the casting cores in place while the block is cast. It looks like the water (ice) level was below the core plug location, and they probably wouldn't have helped save it from cracking anyway.

I'd be nervous mounting that engine on the stand from the bellhousing. That puts a lot of weight forward of the vertical support. Please reconsider mounting it that way.

The "frost plugs" didn't pop because that's not their job. There are no such things as frost plugs or freeze plugs on cast iron engine blocks.

Those plugs exist to close holes in the block that remain after the sand casting process of constructing the block is completed.

Thank you... makes sense about the plugs.

I will make a front engine support. Holding all that weight like a roast on a fork seemed dangerous.

I think I am going to have find another block or a short block rebuild. Disappointing because I bought the epoxy kit thinking the crack was about 4". Are there any companies you could recommend for a short block or even a used block?

Thanks

Bob

216's are readily available, but not new. You might be able to buy a runner from another Stovebolter. Suggest you post an ad in the Truck Parts Wanted forum. Maybe someone is doing an engine swap and has one that you could use. Worst case, you'd need to rebuild it.

I wouldn't give up on repairing the crack. You have nothing to lose. Maybe someone can braze it if it can't be JB welded. If JB Weld will work on a 4-6 inch crack like people fix all the time, why won't it work on something larger?

I personally would only fix a crack like that if it was still running like a top. If it needs a rebuild, no dice. Too many good engine cores out there for next to no investment.

If epoxy will make lasting repairs on small cracks, why wouldn't it work on a larger one?

Since it's a zero pressure cooling system (or maybe 4 lbs), it shouldn't matter how long the crack is, should it?

Blewis if you know anyone coming through the Terrace area I have a complete 1957 235 I've been trying to give away. Block is fine, but it threw a rod. Assuming the '53 journal sizes are right then you could run your bottom end.

Have to wait another month or so for the snow to thaw, but...

All that said, I've repaired cracks in blocks with epoxy and Devcon like others have explained, so you might not need it.

Marine Tex is a lot more effective than JB Weld. Grind the crack into a shallow V shape and mix the Marine Tex according to directions, apply a generous layer over the crack and smooth out the edges. Then just before it hardens fully, press a piece of 40 grit sandpaper over the repair to duplicate the texture of the cast iron. It almost makes the repair disappear.
Jerry

Buoymaker Had one full length of the block,just below the head,epoxied by a previous owner never leaked.

With a crack pretty much the full length of the block, I would begin to worry about mechanical integrity of moving parts inside.

I have a little of the same concern as Carl, but it sure won't hurt to try and fix it. I doubt that the crank will drop out of the bottom of the engine. Cylinder wear might change a little, if there's misalignment, but older engines only had water jackets in the head, with the cylinder walls exposed to air. If the mechanical integrity of the block is compromised, the crack will likely open up and leak.

I think that particular green is normal for engines of that era in Canada
I have a 51 216 in the same or very similar color
And I know it is factory green like that
My grandpa would have never wasted time or effort painting an engine and he never had it out of the truck, when that engine died the truck was put in the farm bushes.
-s

In my teens I worked in a welding shop, ca 1965. The shop owner was a master welder having done that in the military and for a heavy construction company before he went on his own. One day someone brought in a 392 Chrysler Hemi engine cracked from freezing. I recall that he drilled a series of holes along the crack that went the whole length of the block. He used cast iron rod and welded from hole to hole, much like one does with sheet metal. In the end it was ugly but didn't leak when back in the car. I think it came out of a 58 Imperial so it was still worth some money at the time. Not saying that's what you should do but I saw it done many years ago.

Update: thank you all for the suggestions.

The epoxy I have is Belzona 1111, it was $328 cdn with tax and shipping and CAT recommends this product so I am hoping it works. I will phone in the morning and see if the crack length is a factor. I am concerned that the integrity is also compromised not just the water jacket sealing.

The engine is definitely a 235 block. I replaced the original 216 with a 235 I pulled from a 53 Chev, then a few years later I had the bottom end of the engine rebuilt at a machine shop after a rod bearing went.

blewis 9991 On your engine stand problem ,got a mig and a chop saw ?? Make some reenforcement to hold the front up securely. On that epoxy crack fix mine looked like 2.98$ walmart epoxy but that guy got it patched ,I drove it a 42 mile round trip daily never leaked.

Why is marinetex better? May need to try some.

It's specifically designed to work in a wet environment, even salt water. The boat repair guys in my area have been using it for some really innovative repairs, including freeze cracked engine blocks, for several years.
Jerry

I used Belzona extensively during my career in the “Nuc” industry, and it was considered to be the “tops in the industry” for epoxy repair products. It was an approved product by the NRC for coatings and repairs to heat exchangers and pump casings that were eaten up by electrolysis (salt water) or cavitation, that were structurally sound. It was also rated up to about 450 degrees which is more that adequate for our Stovebolt engines.

The key to a lasting repair was absolute cleanliness. After sand blasting or grinding anything exposed to salt, we would let it sit for 24 hours to let it leach out additional salt and repeat as necessary. If exposed to oil, we would heat the area with a torch to sweat out the oil and again repeat as necessary. Any cracks were drilled at the ends to prevent the crack from spreading further then vee’d out to create a greater surface area. After coating, let it sit for the the recommended amount of time to adequately cure prior to adding any fluids.

As “52carl” said, if the engine is running like a top,I see no reason not to attempt the repair.

i bought a rebuilt 54 235 from a guy. someone had bored it, new pistons, new cam and hyd lifters, new oil pump, water pump, and so on. NO head. i bought a head and had it rebuilt and put the engine together. installed it in a 52 hard top and went to put water in it ran out faster then i could put it in. cracked all the way down the side. my dad came home with a bottle of Bars Leak, he put a blanket in front of the radiator and got the engine real hot, then poured in the BarsLeak. i drove it for over 3 years then sold it to a friend who drove it for another 2 years. I RAN PERFECT AND NEVER LEAKED A DROP.
Jay D.

Check out Lock N Stitch, awesome work...

http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html

blewis9991 Carters offer re-buildable short blocks,suspect they're expensive. Best to find one in the weeds.Your block looks like a stich repair candidate,take some patience !

Thanks for the suggestions. I am reinforcing with a support at the front and will extend the front bar horizontally with casters. It doesn't seem safe to me either. I will post some pictures when done in the next couple of days.

Thank you for the procedures on Belzona. I will follow your methods and post the pictures and results. Right now I am reinforcing the engine stand. I had put chains into the floor of the shop when I built it years ago so I will tie the engine to these using the side engine mounts to start it on the stand. There is a bit of setup to get to that point. I have to also set up a cooling system, fuel connection and exhaust vent. Not that hard but it all takes some prep work.