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Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 51
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 51
Hello Stovebolters,

Looking for some potential options if there is any for the brake master cylinder.

I have a 51 3100 with a SM420 transmission. I have added the front disk brake conversion kit and I have a rear end with disk brakes as well.

I was hoping to find a dual master cylinder that would utilize the same brake pedal and linkage system.

I found one at the Fillingstation.com (DB-106-D) and spoke to Steve who said it was intended for use with an automatic transmission. The manual transmissions would supposedly interfere and so he said it would only work with modifications but did not know exactly what was involved.

Just wondering if anyone has used such a cylinder. He said I could use a power brake conversion kit that mounts in the engine bay but I was hoping to keep the engine bay looking more stock.

Thanks for the help.
Scott

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,204
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,204
My master cyl, booster and combination valve fits under the floor so I know that there is enough room. I made my own bracket so I cannot comment on the Filling Station bracket.

The clutch linkage didn't get in the way.


Gord πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 51
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 51
Gord& Fran,

Can you tell me what the unit was you used and where it is available. I have no issues making any custom brackets needed. Did it use the original linkages or did it come with the necessary parts to tie into the brake pedal.

Buoymaker,

That's a good idea to check with the company from the brake conversion kit. Will see what they say. Steve said I could use the master cylinder without the D so DB-106 supposedly would work with modifications.

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,507
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
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The only issue is with the power booster. No issue if your going to dual master without the booster. It it doesn’t fit as Gord say his does, Coilover, a long time member and owner of a custom shop for many, many years, recommends moving the whole assembly back along the frame and lengthen the rod. I plan on this exact upgrade on my β€˜52 3100 in the spring.

Last edited by Phak1; 02/23/2023 11:16 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: β€˜59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 51
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 51
I found a master cylinder on POL site.

Manual master cylinder for disk brakes and mounts to the frame.

Just looking to see what folks think and if it would work for me.

Thanks
Scott
Attachments
MCA4755_250.jpg (7.78 KB, 142 downloads)
POL manual master cylinder

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
I think that a booster is usually used because the disc brakes require a lot more pressure to operate and thus without the booster it requires a greater physical effort. By the way he has disc brakes front and back.


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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,204
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,204
I used a 7" booster from a 1987 Mustang. The m/c is from 1978 Camaro for disk/drum setup, but disk/disk m/cs are about the same physical size. Used the stock pedal and pivot. As mentioned above, the whole unit sits further back from the stock location so I needed a new access hole in the cab floor; it's now close to the seat support. The combination valve mounts in the usual place on a L shaped bracket under the m/c.

The booster allows you to use a larger diameter m/c which reduces brake travel. (I am using 1 1/8" dia bore Raybestos MC36306)

I have a Camaro rear axle with drum brakes and Camaro disk brakes on the front. Had to do a panic stop last summer; I was impressed how well the brakes worked.

Last edited by Gord&Fran; 02/24/2023 4:34 AM.

Gord πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
One certainly DOESN'T have to have the MC in factory position since it's just a pump that will work anywhere. We did a 1930 Plymouth that had the MC BEHIND the rear end and a 1940 Ford coupe that had the MC in the trunk. The Plymouth had a PULL actuator rod with a bell crank at the booster and the Ford used a remote mount booster like a 1957 Thunderbird. With long enough flex lines the booster/MC could be on a trailer one pulled behind. Try to have the unit where it easy to check and fill.


Evan

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