When taking pics of stamped or cast numbers, lighting from the side (with a flashlight) sure helps make them clearer. Just a tip. They need to be clean as well as buoymaker pointed out.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You would start to ID the displacement by getting better pictures of the casting numbers. There are some additional clues based on pushrod cover height and such, but the casting numbers are the first step.
Tak some pictures all the way around the next time you are with the engine and we can help out more.
Once you have that info you can use other sources to check to confirm what that info relates to.
Post more pictures and we can try and help more.
Last edited by Gdads51; 02/22/20238:50 PM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Those cast numbers look like "CON4" for the conveyor it was cast on in the foundry (this number doesn't mean anything to us now) and the date code "G247" (wild guess at your code).
As others have said you need to look at the stamped numbers located on the flat surface near the distributor. The block casting number (part number from the foundry) will be made up of 7 or more numbers.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
