The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Firing up, years later

OK,

So I've turned over the motor by hand several revolutions and lubricated cylinder walls with oil, but I may have overlooked the old gas in the system part......
Upon my excitement of things looking good on the engine I added some fresh gas in and started turning the motor over via ignition barrel. It cranks and cranks, but doesn't seem to want to attempt to fire.
I went back to verify spark when I realized fuel is dripping around the carb, not the fresh fuel. The odor of it is acidic and yellow/gold in color. HAVE I SCREWED UP? I was kind of expecting a new carb or at least a carb rebuild regardless, but am trying to salvage what I can to get her running and driving as most on here have suggested.

Where to go from here? Obviously don't want to continue this process if it will cause issues.

**I did put seafoam in fuel tank if there is a consolation prize**

Fuel dripping around the carb (fresh or old) is not a good thing but don't kick yourself too hard. You do need to get the old stall stuff (previously fuel) out of the system.

However, you also need to make sure that the valves are doing their thing. You didn't mention if you have compression (not a reading as its meaningless and hand cranking speeds). Stuck valves and related pushrod problems are not uncommon on engines that have sat for a long time.

Once you have verified that you have compression (valves opening and closing as expected), verify that you have spark, you can get back the fuel system.

If it makes 2 full revolutions, an exhaust valve may still be sticking, a sticking intake valve would have locked it up.

Drain all the old fuel from the system. When you're ready to start the truck, hook a rubber hose to the fuel pump inlet and place the other end in a gasoline can full of fresh fuel.

Once you verify that the fuel tank is free of rust and debris, you can hook everything back up.

Rovertech (Matt) You deffintly need to purge the old gas from the system. The easiest way to accomplish what you want is to add a clean source of gas, add a 5 gallon can to the pick up side of the fuel pump (bypassing the old fuel in thetank/system). Disconnect to fuel line from the carb, unplug the coil (you don't want the engine to start just yet) and turn the engine over until you have fresh gas at the carb.

If you can remove the carb and drain the stale fuel and rinse the fuel bowl out with either carb cleaner or fresh gas. Once you have everything cleaned up you can remount the carb and fuel line, be sure to prime the system and check for leaks. If your good and have no leaks you should be able to turn the engine over enough to develop oil pressure. If you have oil pressure reconnect the coil and try to and start the engine using the 5 gallon can as the fuel source.

You may find you have other fuel leaks as the cab gaskets have probably dried out. I would be normal to have lifters tapping once the engine starts, that should go away as the lifter get primed again. I wouldn't worry to much about running the engine very long, the point here is to see "If " it will run.

Keep us up-dated on your progress.

NOTE: In a previous post you mentioned turning it over by hand and hearing compression, I believe the valves are opening and closing correctly.

There is a specific Tech Tip for starting a long dormant engine. Please read it before you mess something up and cost you a lot of $.

Thank you as always, Gents! I will keep you updated on progress.

Do you have a link? Cant access tech tips in engine

Very top of this page to the right of the big forums word in red letters

Here is a link. https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/Dead%20Engine%20Start/index.html

You can access other very useful and interesting Tech Tips, by looking at the very top of this page and you will find a link for Tech Tips.

EDIT, Kevin beat me to it!

These are the Tech Tips in the static area of the website. Bunches and bunches of them.