Hi all, I'm looking for some help getting this outer sleeve out of my rear shackle hanger of my 53 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton. I'm afraid I've gone too far and boogered it up. My last effort was to try and drive it out with an air hammer with a sharp tip that slipped off the edge of the sleeve. Have a gone too far and messed the hanger up? Can I still get the sleeve out which may be pinned to the inside of the hanger now? Hopefully someone has been there before to help me out.
Thanks!
Last edited by Challenger Pilot; 02/20/20232:08 AM.
Slip a hacksaw blade in there and make a cut on the bottom and the top.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
What Otto said. You need to be careful not to cut too deep. If you cut ALMOST thru the sleeve, it will collapse somewhat and be easier to push out. Or a correct sized steel rod and a ball joint press can usually get them out.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I chose to make 2 cuts in the middle of the top (ie: between the mounts) 1/4” apart with a reciprocating saw (sawzall), it will collapse just fine, Should you choose to cut on the bottom and go at all into the bracket you would create a weak spot in the already weakest part of the bracket.
I think I like the draw bolt idea, especially if it can pull in the new one as well like Dave mentioned. I'll pick up the supplies and report back here.
Applying a little heat never hurts. Just don't get it cherry red. One or two heating to 300F or so and cooling with water cycles can help. Also some penetrating oil, even with the draw bolt technique.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The bracket is cast iron- - - -the sleeve is steel. A quick cut with an acetylene torch will blow a slot in the steel bushing without damaging the bracket. 30 seconds and it's out. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The bracket is cast iron- - - -the sleeve is steel. A quick cut with an acetylene torch will blow a slot in the steel bushing without damaging the bracket. 30 seconds and it's out. Jerry
I've used that method to cut rusted nuts off of bolts. Usually the threads of the bolt were undamaged and the bolts could be reused, but if overheated, the bolt would have a gouge in it. I'd be hesitant to use that method on the sleeve. If you damaged the bracket you'd be trying to find a replacement. Using a ball joint press is a much safer method.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Ball joint press works very well for for pushing the threaded shackle bushings out. I didn’t have to apply heat but I’m sure some mild use of heat would be helpful.
Guys...you are a great help!! I made my draw bolt according to the directions from Dave and his blog said, and it was genius! For an $8 investment in parts, I was able to get both sleeves out in about 20 minutes. I just needed a little persuasion with some heat.
Last edited by Challenger Pilot; 02/21/202311:50 PM.
I've used that method to cut rusted nuts off of bolts. Usually the threads of the bolt were undamaged and the bolts could be reused, but if overheated, the bolt would have a gouge in it. I'd be hesitant to use that method on the sleeve. If you damaged the bracket you'd be trying to find a replacement. Using a ball joint press is a much safer method.
My guess is that you have never tried to cut cast iron with a torch. It doesn't cut well even if you crank it way up past the level needed for steel.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
My guess is that you have never tried to cut cast iron with a torch. It doesn't cut well even if you crank it way up past the level needed for steel.
Carl, you are correct. I haven't tried that. Maybe I was being overcautious about Jerry's recommendation.
But at least the threaded rod setup got the OP's bushings out.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The trick is "quick" and HOT! Don't mess around- - - -get the sleeve hot and tap the cutter bar on the torch. It will blow a slot in the sleeve a shade faster than instantly! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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