Yes, it's a short rod with a Z bend on one or both ends. I'd have to dig mine out to look at it to be sure.
That applies to 47-54 trucks. You didn't specify what you're working on. They are available. Link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The wiper arms are held in place by a spring assembly. Here is a [LINK] It gets stretched between both posts the arms attach to.
Last edited by Phak1; 02/05/20231:27 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I have had nothing but trouble keeping that switch-to-vacuum motor connecting rod in place using the aftermarket rubber grommets. I gave up on the rod and the grommets and used a length of TIG feed wire (similar to coat hanger wire). It's a pretty simple matter of bending the ends all the way around so that the rod ends cannot fall out. Works fine, last long time. If it rattles, I cannot hear it over all of the rest of the rattles.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I have had nothing but trouble keeping that switch-to-vacuum motor connecting rod in place using the aftermarket rubber grommets. I gave up on the rod and the grommets and used a length of TIG feed wire (similar to coat hanger wire). It's a pretty simple matter of bending the ends all the way around so that the rod ends cannot fall out. Works fine, last long time. If it rattles, I cannot hear it over all of the rest of the rattles.
I put some heat shrink tubing over the end of mine (and shrunk) - with the speedometer removed I could access it OK. So far, so good haven't lost it since. The grommet still had a tight slip fit, but it would work its way up - tubing seems to have prevented that.
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
