Stovebolters, 1) Cleaned up the emergency brake bracket; 2) Ready to mount on firewall after removal of a broken bolt; & 3)will get some new bolts from local hardware store.
'The 1952 Chevrolet Suburban's stoplight came with: 1) missing lenses; 2) that shiney thingie that holds the red lens in place; & 3) a dent on the side of the stoplight housing. You will note in pics a clear glass lens & a red plastic lens with the box it came in. A VA stovebolter sold me the glass lens($20)& the OEM red plastic lens was bought on ebay ($25). If anyone sees that shiney thingie available could you please comment? I have seen on ebay a better condition entire stoplight that was expensive ($150). You will see I have done some clean-up on the stoplight housing thus far.
Switched in the garage the 1948 Chevrolet 3100 (hunter green) with the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban 3104 (windsor blue). Why? Because I will address the engine bay, hood, & the front clip.
I'll be using the factory assembly manual to put the '52 'Burb back together. You will see the emergency brake mechanism in the second pic & that is what I first need to address when putting the driver's side front clip back together.
I'm using a 12' by 18' shed to clean up the hood. Pics show the worst rust on the passenger side of the hood near the Chevrolet badging. The front badge is missing but at least I got 2 out of 3 when I bought it.
I recently: 1) removed dirt, grease, & rust from the radiator bracket; 2) used j.b. weld to fix a spot on the bracket; & 3) applied rusty metal primer.
I have: 1) finished the radiator bracket using rattle can rustoleum automotive black gloss paint; 2) determined the stabilizer "U shaped" bar needs to be cleaned up & new bushings applied; & 3) found Carters, Independence, MO carries them but are back ordered.
I used a handheld electric mouse sander & a electric drill with a wire brush on the end to bring the stabilizer bar to bare metal. I then applied Rustoleum rattle can rusty metal primer. I began to clean surface rust off a 1957 235 inline 6 cylinder engine block.
Refurbishment of the front stabilizer involved taking apart 8 components & the most difficult is shown in the pics. There are eight separate bushings & all will be replaced. I ordered the bushings ($110) from Chevies of the Forties, Vancouver, WA.
I have: 1) Cleaned up both front supports that provide structural integrity for the fenders; 2) applied automotive rusty metal primer rustoleum; & 3) applied rustoleum automotive black gloss. Pics show the results before & after. Also, some print details of the front supports is given from the assembly manual.
I have: 1) moved the hood from the shed to the front of the garage closer to the stored tools; 2) spent a good hour carefully removing rust from the underneath brace on the front part of the hood; & 3) used a 1/2 inch wide belt line sander. The metal is been thinned & some holes are prevalent on the passenger side underneath the hood on the brace. See pics before & after.
I framed pg 11 of a 28 pg original advertising brochure of 1953 Chevrolet trucks. Your looking at a 1953 Suburban Carryall being used by TWA with a young man moving what appears to be soft luggage. Windsor Blue is the paint color depicted & that is the color which I chose to paint my 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall. The front anti-sway stabilizer bar is finished & installed. Looks factory.
I used a drill spinning a wire brush, Dremel wire brush attachments, & black& decker hand held mouse with 80 grit sand paper to throughly clean up the underside support beam of the hood. It did clean up fairly adequate for wiping down with acetone & then applying Rustoleum automotive rusty metal primer. I did patch the holes with JB Weld. The worst of the hood is on the side as you see in the pic. I will address that problem in due time.
Addressed the underside of the hood by: 1) removing the rust with palm sander (60 grit paper), wire brush dremel, & 1 inch wide belt sander; 2) wiping it down with acetone; 3) applied rattle can primer; & 4) first coat of rattle can black gloss enamel. Pics show: A) taking it mostly down to bare metal rust removal; B) primer applied; & C) 1st coat of the black enamel.
Sir, Yeah, on that Windsor Blue paint color for the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall. How that choice & results came to be: 1) my wife & I looked at the original factor colors that were available back in the day; 2) we decided on that particular color; 3) I bought 2 gallons of acrylic enamel from Carters, Independence, MO & bought reducer & hardener separately; & 4) paid a gentleman to prepare the body,fenders, & 2 front doors then spray paint those items. I was left with preparing 2 rear doors, the hood & miscellaneous items. Thanks for following along on this build Possum. V/r, Nick
I have: 1) finished addressing the underside hood of the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall by using rattle can black gloss paint; 2) started addressing the right passenger side hood near where the "Chevrolet" badging is attached by: A) removing dirt & rust; B) using 60 grit sand paper on a palm sander & using 120 grit sand paper on a 3/4 inch belt sander; & C) sourcing sheet metal at Home Depot; 3) placed 1 of the spring hood hinges in vinegar to remove rust.
On the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall's hood: 1) I cut & bent a piece of sheet metal; 2) put it on the passenger side hole underneath existing metal on one side & one end; & 3) smother it with epoxy (jb weld). The passenger side front window: A) was cleaned with windex; B) shows the remnants of a 1967 New York State Registration Sticker with March as the expiration month; & C) confirms what the registration of the original owner had signed. A Maryland title was put in my name (Cavallaro) April 2011 prior to any restoration effort (time & $) getting underway.
I have: 1) secured the hood brace to the hood using a 5/32 diameter machine screw after drilling the piece of sheet metal set in epoxy; 2) begun removing rust & original green paint on the passenger side hood edge that sits on the right fender edge; & 3) used a small steel wire brush to assist in removing rust from the vinegar soaked hood spring.
I begun to address the top side of the hood by: 1) placing it on my pickup bed while siting on a rollable cart using a palm sander; 2) being outside as the wind blows the dust away from my breathing zone; & 3) spending only 1 hr on.the task to ensure the safety of myself, whether it be hand or shoulder soreness. I plan to work the hood over multiple weeks as there is quit a lot of effort needed to prepare the hood properly for primer and paint. Pic show the effort thus far. I located 2 other hood attachment pieces that I have put in vinegar for cleanup
After hardware that is used to attach the hood to the firewall soaked for 4 days in a gallon bucket of vinegar, you see in the pics that rust has dissolved. There is some final cleanup that I still have to do.
More effort put forth on removing rust & original paint on the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall's hood. I ran out of bright sunshine late this afternoon that, essentially, this hood job only can be done outside with the wind blowing away from my breathing zone. The hood is getting closer & closer to bare metal. See pics.
The metal strip that runs down the hood's center hiding the seam between each half of the hood was removed. The metal strip was missing 6 inches toward where the Chevrolet badging goes. Pics show details to include the underside & where metal tabs on the strip secure it to the hood. There is dirt. rust, & grime as evident after taking it off.
After hardware that is used to attach the hood to the firewall soaked for 4 days in a gallon bucket of vinegar, you see in the pics that rust has dissolved. There is some final cleanup that I still have to do.
My hood hinges weren't quite that rusty, but I zinc plated them after cleaning them up. I think they look pretty good, pic is of the plated hood support. If you're interested in how to do that, I can share the recipe and setup.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I did more sanding of the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall's hood. A considerable effort was done using 50 grit disc's on a hand held wiz wheel. See pics.
Nick, it looks like I've messed up your photo posting by putting a caption in mine. A software glitch keeps that caption for later pics in the same thread. To get rid of it, before you add a pic in the attachment manager, click in the white box and either enter a single space character or put in a new caption. You have to do that BEFORE you attach the pictures. But now that I've added a "how to" picture, you probably won't have to worry about it.
On your hood, you may need to either use a rust remover in the center or get it sandblasted. The pits there can't really be dealt with using a wire wheel or sanding disk. Looks good otherwise.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Looking great, Nick! Thanks for the excellent job journaling it!
~ John
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
I continued on the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall's hood by: 1) using a Dremel to remove hidden pockets of rust along where the 2 half pieces meet together; 2) protecting my lungs by using a 3M mask while applying the first coat of gray primer; & 3) wiping down the bare metal hood with acetone prior to applying the primer.
And I thank everyone who is following along on this project, particularly the recent commentary made by Kevin & John. V/r, Nick
A second coat of the rust preventative gray primer has been applied to the hood of the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall. Now it won't flash rust overnight which I had seen it had done somewhat, like on the edges where hood meets the fenders when closed. Pics show warts that will be addressed while doing the finishing work, like fiberglass putty or similar epoxy type material to smooth things out before applying different type primer, finishing sandpaper work, & then acrylic enamel base coat windsor blue color paint.
A quart of fiberglass jelly that you mix its hardner with was applied to areas of the hood where rust ate up the metal. I've used this stuff before & am happy with the price ($28/qt Cliffs Auto Supply, Rt 1. Darlington, MD) & how you go about using it.
With regards to the 1952 Chevrolet Suburban's hood: 1) the hardened fiberglass jelly was sanded with a palm sander; 2) the fiberglass did a good job filling in spots where rust had eaten the metal; & 3) a applied more rust protective gray primer.
The '52 'Burbs hood has been painted by: 1) using acrylic enamel windsor blue paint (Carters, Independence, MO) with reducer & hardner (Tractor Supply, Aberdeen. MD) mixed in; 2) keeping garage doors down (lots of rain & wind outside) using high intensity lights above; 3) using spray gun with the pressure hose hooked up to a large electric compressor (Lowes, Abingdon, MD); & 4) wearing a respirator (Home Depot, Bel Air, MD). I was glad to finally get some color on that hood because it is an awkward component of the project.
Several of key heavy duty steering pieces I was able to address by: 1) using a empty 5 gallon bucket holding the pitman arm & then the less heavier item in it. I removed the heavy packed soil & grease; 2) using a spray can of engine degreaser in the bucket did further clean up followed by wiping down with acetone; & 3) painted using rattle can black. More to follow with the butt of the steering mechanism which holds the bearings & what not. See pics.
Made a tad little bit of room to work between the already restored Hunter Green 1948 Chevrolet 3100 pick-up & the '52 'burb project by placing the '52 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall's windsor blue hood sideways in the '48 pickup bed. On the steering column at the base I first: 1) removed the shift linkage mechanism with the rods for the 3 on the tree; 2) I then began removing the caked on soil, grease & clay using putty knife, small wire brush, and lots of rags. It helped using brake cleaner rather than goof off. See pics. I have a bit more of that greasy job but there is always another day for pleasurable restoration work on our stovebolts. See pics.
Continued clean-up on the steering column in which I did notice: 1) if you have the column a tad down hill from its butt end you can observe a 🌽 hole grease (heavier grease) spot on your garage floor 24 hrs later. Don't ask me how I know; 2) the column's original color I want to keep, although where the floor board meets the column there is some rust. See pic. I'll figure to match that spot only. Why? There is value in keeping an original column color & steering wheel cause I'm not doing a modern parts restoration; & 3) it's a cast iron base & I will continue the clean-up (see pic); & 4) evidence of thin bands of electrical tape near the top of column more than likely held one of those circular clear registration packet holders. Neat! You can buy those today & use them like they did back in the day.
