That's an offshore-made copy of a Holley 2 barrel that was used on various sizes of Ford V8 engines in the 1960's and 70's. It's far too big for your application, and probably calibrated for an engine a few cubic inches bigger than a 292, so it's going to run lean. Expect a lean flat spot on acceleration and possibly backfiring unless you're very gentle on the gas pedal. To adjust the position of the choke plate, loosen (don't remove) the three screws that hold the sheet metal retainer over the black plastic cover and rotate the cover to change the spring tension on the linkage that operates the choke flap. The screw that goes into the plastic bell crank in your photo is used to change the position of the fast idle cam. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Yes Dan, That port has a short hose connected to it and the plastic diaphragm. I used it to check the vacuum. I would like to know what is in the head, looks like it is a temperature probe. It is the last picture I posted # 5. I have never had it connected to anything, the water temperature connects near the thermostat in the front. Hoping the weather is suitable for working on it tomorrow.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
That's an offshore-made copy of a Holley 2 barrel that was used on various sizes of Ford V8 engines in the 1960's and 70's. It's far too big for your application, and probably calibrated for an engine a few cubic inches bigger than a 292, so it's going to run lean. Expect a lean flat spot on acceleration and possibly backfiring unless you're very gentle on the gas pedal. To adjust the position of the choke plate, loosen (don't remove) the three screws that hold the sheet metal retainer over the black plastic cover and rotate the cover to change the spring tension on the linkage that operates the choke flap. The screw that goes into the plastic bell crank in your photo is used to change the position of the fast idle cam. Jerry
I loosened those screws this morning and rotated the plastic cover but the carb flap did not move. Yes, that fast idle cam is what I used to (thinking I was adjusting the choke). I was told when I bought the truck 15 years ago that it has a Ford Carburetor so that makes sense that it is a Ford intake. The only time it backfires is when I am cruising around 45 MPH and let off of the gas completely, then it sounds like it backfires inside of the manifold not out the exhaust pipe. It has exhaust pipe leaks (not manifold) so that may affect the back-pressure on the engine too?
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
After working on it tomorrow and seeing how it runs, I think I should consider getting the correct intake and carburetor for it, of course I'd like some help from you guys in determining the correct one to get! Probably needs valve adjustment too!
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
Just a note to clarify what you have for an intake manifold.
It is not a "Fxxx" product. It's an aftermarket manifold made/sold by Clifford Performance. A web page listing their offerings for Chevy 250/292 engines is found at this link:
Not suggesting you change your mind about setting your 292 back to original manifold and carb equipment. Just wanted to clear up possible mis-identification of what you have.
Dan
Last edited by Gdads51; 01/26/20232:15 PM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
If you will take some time (we are talking maybe a couple of hours to get them all) and write down ALL numbers from all locations on your block and head and post them in this thread we may be able to tell you exactly what engine you have. Remember we need everything not just one or two. Once you know what you have you can begin your search to put it back like GM intended it to be. You will be glad you did.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I only know which engine I have is from buying a new starter, only a 292 looked like the one I removed. Now my problem is with the choke. I have 12 Volts to the electric choke. The choke warms up when it’s on as it should but the choke valve now stays closed and won’t run. The brass vacuum does not move the choke as it should & I don’t see any way to adjust it. I’ll wait to hear from you but go ahead and check the cylinder compressions.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
For anyone that didn’t see my post. The compressions were good except the back one # 6, I think I posted it as 15 lbs! Looking now to see how to repair her. I recall back in the late 60’s my Dad had a 1 ton International. I dropped the oil pan & replaced the bearings. I don’t recall doing anything with the rings, I think that would require pulling the head & mine requires everything!
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
On 292’s the pushrod cover on the side of the block is about 6” tall, the engine mounts are in different locations side to side vs. all other ‘63 and newer engines-194, 230, 250.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
The engine mounts are on the side, the pushrod covers are 4 & 1/2 inches. Guess it would be prudent to investigate what other engines could go in there and try to locate a short block, maybe even a new transmission. This one has a very low rear ration. Glenn
Last edited by glennj3; 01/27/20234:43 PM.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
If your push rod side covers are not close to 6" tall, the engine you have is not a 292. It will be either a 230 or 250.
Also, if the side mounts are in the same place on the block on both sides (not staggered in different places on each side) that also confirms that it is not a 292.
You very much need to further investigate what you have before going any further IMO.
Up to you sir.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I’m not sure why you have chosen to ignore most of the posts in this thread and plowed on by yourself. You have been asked several times to post the numbers cast into and stamped into your block and heads. You have ignored those requests. If you would give us all those numbers we can tell you exactly what engine you have which will help you decide what you want to do. If you want our help we are more than willing but you need to answer questions!
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I’m not sure why you have chosen to ignore most of the posts in this thread and plowed on by yourself. You have been asked several times to post the numbers cast into and stamped into your block and heads. You have ignored those requests. If you would give us all those numbers we can tell you exactly what engine you have which will help you decide what you want to do. If you want our help we are more than willing but you need to answer questions!
I’m sorry but I have posted pictures of the #”s stamped on the right side of the block. Some are located behind the oil dip spout and makes it difficult to see them. From my research it is a 292. I don’t intentionally ignore anyone & apologize if I do so. I’ll try to do better next time! Glenn
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
If your push rod side covers are not close to 6" tall, the engine you have is not a 292. It will be either a 230 or 250.
Also, if the side mounts are in the same place on the block on both sides (not staggered in different places on each side) that also confirms that it is not a 292.
You very much need to further investigate what you have before going any further IMO.
Up to you sir.
Dan
I miss read, I’ll look at the mounts again but the covers are 4.5 inches tall.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
One side cover- - - - -194, 230, or 250. 230 and 250 use the same block casting.
Two side covers- - - - -292. Simple, easy, and no pictures required. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
One side cover- - - - -194, 230, or 250. 230 and 250 use the same block casting.
Two side covers- - - - -292. Simple, easy, and no pictures required. Jerry
Well that would make it simple! It has 2 side covers. The starter I bought only fit the 292. I’ll post a picture of the only # I see. Reflects reality nicely against the oil!
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
The 194/230/250 and the 292 have two side covers...the 250 group has about 4" tall covers while the 292 has about 6" tall covers.
If you look at the passenger side of your engine the 194/230/250 will have the Motor Mount/Fuel Pump/Oil Filter in that order. The 292 will have the Fuel Pump/Motor Mount/Oil Filter in that order. Since the Fuel Pump is in the center of the block on the 292 they had to move the motor mount forward making it noticeably closer to the radiator than the drivers side. To my knowledge that's the only in-line 6 that has staggered mounts. If you have a 250, any SBC or BBC V8 will bolt right in without any modifications or adaptors.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
