The rear diff in my 57 seems to have had a rough past!
Also seems to be working just fine…Chevy tough???
Wondering if there any tips and/or tricks to getting the cross shaft out so I can remove the axles to replace the leaky seals? I have ground off the galled/peened steel that was holding the shaft captive, no matter how hard I beat on it I can only get about 1/16” movement in either direction. Yes, I have removed the keeper bolt!!
Part of the retaining pin is probably broken off inside. There are various ways to get the remaining piece out. Look in the tech tips or a search. I have used a thin magnet on a stick before. This is very common.
George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
The 10-39 stamped on the ring gear would mean you have a 3.90:1 gear ratio.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
There should be an unthreaded section of the cross pin retaining bolt about an inch or more long ahead of the threads. They have a nasty habit of breaking that piece off and it stays wedged into the hole. Drill or grind a divot on the back side of the carrier to expose the hole so you can get a punch or a stiff wire into it and drive the broken off piece out. It doesn't hurt the carrier, although it looks like that one has had a rough life already. You might have to remove the left side bearing cap to get a straight shot at the carrier with a drill bit. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Turns out that the end of the retainer bolt had indeed broken off, possibly the result of the shaft being sweated/galled into the heat on the opposing side!! After a solid 15 minutes of beating on the shaft with a 2.5lb sledge I saw dimples appearing in the carrier, I drilled two relief pockets for the offending bits to come out, took a solid 45 minutes more beating for the shaft to clear that first gear, then it dropped out like it should. Any ideas where to source a replacement gear and shaft? Oh ya, also hammered the crap out of the brass shim so I’ll need one of those too!!!
You'll probably want to replace the differential bearings at least, since hammering the crap out of the gear shaft probably brinnelled the bearings. Brinnelling is impacts driving the rollers into the race and making divots that the rollers then go "thump" as they roll across. The rollers themselves may have been slightly flat spotted as well. One of those "while you're in there things."
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
