My door glass goes up or down in a slight angle (as opposed to straight vertical) to a point where it will stop rolling or is very difficult to get completely down. Is the end of the regulator that connects into the glass channel for sliding fixed or is it supposed to roll? Mine seems fixed. BTW, what is the hole at the end of the channel for?
54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system. JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
Your problem may be the roller on the end of the regulator that slides in the glass channel. The originals were some sort of phenolic material that eventually wears out and quits rolling. You can get replacements out of nylon, along with a shoulder rivet to replace the original. Link
No idea on the hole at the end of the channel. Maybe manufacturing related.
Sounds like your run channels (the felt covered thingies in the door groove) may be worn and need to be replaced. Also the division bar (rear of the vent window) might be mis-adjusted. There's a bolt at the bottom that holds it in place.
Last edited by klhansen; 01/13/20238:02 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks for the tip. Yes, I think the roller is my problem. I replaced all felt with USA made felt. It fits nicely. So, I would have to drill out the existing and press-in the rivet? The Fillingstation states that 2-4 required per window?? Is that a mistaken quantity?
54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system. JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
The original "rollers" (leather sliders to be exact) are held on by rivets. You remove those and the holes in the arm will accept the new roller rivet. They work very nicely. The '51-'55.1 only needs one roller per door.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
The '50 and earlier trucks required 2 per door, but like Carl said, you'll only need one per door. When I did mine, I just ground the rivet flush with the arm and then punched the rivet out. The original rivets were solid and peened with a cold chisel in an X pattern, but for the ones from the Filling Station, you may need a tool for peening the semi-tubular rivet. Don't try to peen over a semi-tubular rivet without the tool.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Does anyone have a problem with the door glass binding? As a test, my glass slides up and down fairly smoothly without regulator connected. After replacing the regulator roller and connecting to the bottom glass channel, when rolling down, the glass tilts to the right edge and binds and to the left when rolling up. I do not see where you can adjust the roller pivot point.
54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system. JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
Does anyone have a problem with the door glass binding? As a test, my glass slides up and down fairly smoothly without regulator connected. After replacing the regulator roller and connecting to the bottom glass channel, when rolling down, the glass tilts to the right edge and binds and to the left when rolling up. I do not see where you can adjust the roller pivot point.
You may not have the division bar tight enough to the window (pushed to the rear.) That would let the window be pushed toward the rear by the regulator arm. You might need a little grease on the roller channel so it doesn't bind as the roller goes thru it. Or possibly the bottom channel has been bent in a bit when installed. I would try loosening the bolt at the bottom of the division channel and pushing that toward the glass, then retightening.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I treat the window channels in all my vehicles with spray silicone every year or so to keep the windows sliding smoothly.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)