I live in the Northeast and store my 49-3100 in my garage for the winter. I use a battery tender. My question is should I start it up during the winter or just wait for spring?
Take it for a run to get the oil nice and hot just before you store it. Then pull the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil in the cylinders. Then enjoy your winter without worrying about it. Winterize it just like you would an outboard motor that you won't run till the water gets soft again.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Just make sure you don't let it sit with ethanol fuel in it. Fill it to the top with ethanol free fuel and Sta-Bil.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
Good advice about not storing with ethanol in the system. Of course , that could be extended to avoiding that stuff altogether. Fogging is a good practice. It can be done by spraying Marvel Mystery Oil into the carb throat for 30 seconds or so with engine idling , then shut down and store. Regarding the original question, I would leave it dormant for the duration. Once cold , leave it cold. If you feel compelled to run the engine during winter storage make sure it gets up to operating temperature for a good amount of time. -And there would be your opportunity to fog it prior to shut down.
Age 68 is not too late to start hot rodding , right?
I pretty much did what the gang suggests and had good results when we went to Japan for three years -- I left the Chevelle in my parents' barn. I set the engine on a mid idle and then started dumping a quart of transmission fluid down the carb (Holley 650 double pumper). About halfway, I increased the pour until the engine choked out. All the smoke cleared the swallows out of the barn for awhile ...
Three years later, I put new plugs in and a new battery, and it took a few spins to start, but it did. Ran good after it burned off all the tranny fluid.
~ John
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Seal off the carburetor inlet and tailpipe with heavy plastic and duct tape to keep humidity from cycling in and out of the cylinders with the valves open due to temperature changes. I've seen cylinders get rust pitted in just a few weeks when the temp and humidity hit the wrong levels. No matter where an engine stops turning, there will be a few valves open. It also keeps mice from building nests in the exhaust system. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Or you can just be like me and forget that winter is coming, do nothing about it, remember it about this time of year with the carb torn half apart, and hope for the best!
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I don’t think the farmers in the Midwest let their trucks sit all winter, yet, here we are 60-70 years later and still fixing and driving them. That’s what I’m doing anyway. No garage queen or show truck for me in Illinois. However, with hip replacement in early December, 2022 it is sitting a bit this year. My nerves are a bit shot too from riding with the wife. 🥴
1957 Chevy 3200 Daily Driver PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights. Follow in the DITY
My nerves are a bit shot too from riding with the wife. 🥴
My condolences. Been there.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
i put staybill in the tank run them for a bit shut them off hook up to battary tender cover cars , do nothing all winter .start up in spring even with enthanol ( thats all we have) never a problem starting. doing this for years..
I don't run Rec. fuel in anything, boat, jet ski, lawn equipment, cars, trucks, tractors, blah,blah. I use Sta-Bil in all of them and have not had any trouble.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
"Rec. fuel" is usually called "recreational fuel". Also otherwise known as REC-90. Is supposed to be ethanol free, 90 octane rated and designed for use in off-road and marine engines that may be damaged by running ethanol content fuels.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Otto Here in central illinois aim to drive all winter,fired up at 5:20 am went to coffee. 25 degrees well before daylight. Ran about 50 roads all clear.
Back in my working days, the coldest drive to work I did was 20 below. The most amazing thing was how thick the transmission gear lube got. Shifting was something else.
I'm a little more selective when I drive the '48 now that I'm retired.
33 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
I drove the '50 on Christmas when it was 12 degrees here in Atlanta. Fortunately I rebuilt the heater a year ago.
I didn't notice anything different about the shifting but I did notice the oil pressure was about 30psi until the oil warmed up and thinned out. After a few minutes it was back to 15psi.
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 01/10/20234:36 PM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Here in Atlanta, I use 20W-50 or 15W-40 in my old cars year round. The 12 degree weather was a fluke. Mid 30s to 40s are the normal lows during the winter here.
The AD uses 20W-50.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
That brings up the multi-viscosity oil discussion for driving, not storing, during the winter. Should we use 5w30 or 5w40 year round?
I use 15W40 in my diesel year round and rarely have any issues with starting. Of course, the starter may have as much horsepower as a stovebolt 6.
The only reason that you'd use a 5W-anything is for starting issues, and I doubt a stovebolt (or any gas engine) would have issues in Illinois temperatures.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Otto My 51 with an insert bearing 235 has -.002 bearings thru-out,when I put those in couldn't see much wrong with the journals but it didn't lock it up. Now it keeps that 30 pound gage pegged summer and winter even at hot summer idle. Never had or saw one do it before,mine nor customer back in the day.
dougs Wouldn't hurt to round out the tires on sunny winter days,especially if you have a good heater and the roads are clear. I drive my 51 6400 all winter,go swig my coffee with the regulers.
Fixite - I see you are in Illinois. Rounding out the tires on a sunny winter day sounds nice , but up here in Wisconsin there is always some salt/brine residue remaining on the pavement , unless there has been considerable rain. Once my truck is in the boat shed it stays there for the duration , sadly. Maybe the various maintenance agencies down your way are not so excessive in application?
Age 68 is not too late to start hot rodding , right?
33 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Waveski WWhere I am maintenance for winter driving is almost non-existant,we do get a little brine so stay in out of that. They have some bigger tools when it snows and drifts and my township will knock open my 1/4 mile of drifted road.
DES57 I don't know if I should do this but I top off my oil level with 10w40 used break in oil from a 4x4 540 pulling truck. I let it settle out for weeks then carefully pour off a quart (looks fine) now that racer is as clean as we can soap and water get it. The break in oil is full of zinc and so far over 11,000 miles cam is fine...I hope,haven't seen it since bearing change.
With the update in the "News Corner," just wanted to add here that we also have a great Tech Tip on getting your truck ready for winter. Includes some of our favorite images.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
Looks like Illinois, and much of the US today. Minus 11 this morning. I’ll take a little more global warming please. My daily driver ‘57 3200 is safe in the garage.
1957 Chevy 3200 Daily Driver PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights. Follow in the DITY