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Power Steering

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Stove bolt Tom 1 Online OP
'Bolter
I am going to put a SBC V8 in this 1950 truck With Automatic trans and power steering. My Question is how many people on this have converted to power steering and what did the use. How many of you have used the conversion kit were you use a power steering box from 1968-1976 chevy truck. My question is did you have to relocate the front shocks and how do you like the set up.Thanks
Tom

I put the 800 series power steering box conversion on my '57 GMC years ago. The box mounts on the outside of the frame, forward of the front axle. Hated it because of the bump steer I encountered, caused by a very short and non-horizontal drag link. The steering arm broke (luckily at very low speed while pulling out of my driveway) and I went back to stock.

I went with an electric kit from EPAS. Stock column and box. simple installation.

It's well worth it as long as you make sure that you end up with a horizontal drag link and additional caster shims. I've installed 6 of these set-ups already for myself and others. The only bump steer issue was with a 49 3100 with a dropped axle. Was able to correct it with a different pitman arm. As far as moving the shocks to the rear, pretty easy.

I got a PM from jmoore and I can't figure out how to send him pictures on a PM so I thought I put it out here for anyone interested.

He asked me what electric power steering I had. I got mine from EPAS performance. If I didn't buy it direct then I bought it from Summit.

I haven't installed mine yet but I did install the same one on a friends 53. I have a 53 3100. He has been using it for about 3 years with no issues. He drives his truck a lot. It's smooth as silk and he loves the adjustable gain. He's always showing off turning the wheel with one finger before he starts it.

It's also a nice feature if your engine dies on the road, you still have P/S. If it fails it just becomes manual again.

For my wants and needs it was a simple choice. I have already rebuilt my stock box.

For me, option 1. power steering pump, pulleys, brackets and hoses. Power steering box, steering column, mounts and some conglomeration of shafts and U joints. Then you have to deal with the steering geometry. I'm sure it can be done but most I've seen have some compromises.

Option 2. go to the junkyard and tear an electric system and controller out of some other car and try to hack it in and hope it works.

I chose option 3. Wait until I could afford the $1500 and buy a top of the line dedicated system for my truck.

This is a one day project with refreshments. If you had to you could install this with a drill, hacksaw and file. You just cut a chunk out of the column and shaft. Then double D the shaft. Then put the motor inline. It torques off of the column so you can clock it up under the dash. One power wire. You have to look under the dash to even know it's there. I drilled out the throttle bezel and put the gain switch there. Then I drilled out the throttle knob and used it on the gain switch. It looks stock and you just twist it to adjust the gain.

I also have electric A/C compressor with remote condenser that goes under the truck. Duel diaphragm booster under the cab.

My engine compartment will look completely stock except for the 1000hp 6-71 blown 292. JMHO.

Thank you for your time.

Photos cannot be sent in Private Messages. Obtain an email address and send them that way.

By posting the pictures here, jmoore can see them (as well as the rest of us). PM him with the link to the post here.

Or, Option 2 ... you can link the images to a PM.

I think first Option would be the easiest. Plus he'll have all your description.

In my opinion, the electric option appeals to me the most. I have power steering but I have an AMC pacer front suspension.

AMC Pacer front suspension? Is that a somewhat rare conversion choice?

Back in the day the Pacer was the go to platform for V8 and IFS set ups.

Interesting, I did not know that. Would not have guessed that an AMC component would come into play in such a modification.

Thank you

I would like to thank whoever made my long post presentable.

Mike,

Was just piddling away in here and ended up "messing with" your post. I wanted to respond about the photo in PM. Wanted to be sure I was reading it correctly.

Plus, I think people use phones may have a disadvantage. I know I do the few times (late at night ) that I respond. Those replies are very short.

I used a 2006 Ion pump and grafted it to a 94 blazer tilt column. Stock steering box and axle. I have adjustable steering ( tight or loose). It has worked well for 4 years now.

Were did you get your electric a/c compressor if I may ask? Ive been looking for one.

wow, it never a cured to me. and i have a 2013 ford picup daily driver with electric power stering and its ben great all these years. great idea sir.

Just to be the contrarian and *again* ask the old question ... Why do you (OP) feel the need to "upgrade" to power steering? I ask this because we've had a lot of people come through the site over the years thinking they had to go the P/S route for "better" steering ... When all they really needed was to be more informed to make a better decision. Sometimes, P/S is the better route. But not always.

In my opinion, after completing two frame offs, and spending a fair amount of time behind the wheel of a '65 GMC 1.5 ton with less than 10,000 miles on it (firetruck... ), it is my experience that an original front axle set up, refurbished to factory specs and adjusted properly with good, properly inflated and balanced tires, gives 95 percent of the same feel and control of a power steering set up without the hassle and expense of cobbling it all together.

And in the case of my unrestored/*mostly* original '49 one-ton, it steers about 80 percent as well as a p/s set up. The firetruck, at max gross weight of 19,000 lbs, steered with one finger at any speed other than a complete stop. And even at that, it wasn't bad. On the down side, out in the field or on rough terrain or negotiating deep ruts ... the wheel could be ripped out of your hands. Got whanged in the funny bone by the Brodie knob that way once ... Still wouldn't want to upgrade to power steering, though.

I had factory PS on my '72 GMC 9500 road tractor, though -- and was glad for it. On a light truck, I think a well-maintained original (non Pwr) steering is as good for most scenarios.

Just food for thought.

I got it from Street FX out of Australia. It's made by RenCool. The American ones I found look like they came out of a window A/C unit. I don't know how I messed up the link but you can google it.

www.facebook.com/watch/?v=545666196030824

I have emailed EPAS to determine if the same C1 type setup will fit a 1951 one ton GMC. Lets see what the spectrum of the C1 Corvette allows. Will share results as this seems to be the perfect conversion, if you can afford the $1500!

Back when I had the conversion done it was easy to get used parts. There was a kit for the brackets. I even loaned them to a machinist and he copied them for his trucks.

I think is has to do with the tube diameter of the column. A lot of GM cars and trucks used the (2"?) column tube. This torques off the tube, The self cancelling factory turn signal assembly I'm using came off of a Chevy sedan and it slides right on my 53 3100 column. I shortened my column 3" to use the 54 truck steering wheel with the canceling tab on it. If you are doing the EPAS that might be something to consider at the same time. Please let us know what you find out.

I did not have room to keep the steering box on top of the frame so I went with the later gm power steering box, seemed like the simplest solution at the time . I had to customize the bracket a bit to get the drag perfectly level. I never drove it without power steering so I don’t have anything to compare it to but it rides really nice.

Don't turn the steering wheel while sitting still with that new steering arm. I did.

Bill, what grade bolt did your steering arm use? I was set up to use a Saginaw box and the steering arm you have, I changed plans and used a series 400 box from CPP.

There were two things I recall when I installed mine. I had to be careful with bolt length. You need to use grade 8 bolts that are as long as possible without bottoming out in the arm. Also, I think the holes in the knuckle are threaded. I don’t recall if I had to drill them slightly so the arm would tighten correctly. I do remember I installed it and then took it apart to double check it was tightening down right. I haven’t had any issues yet.

It was 15+ years ago, so I couldn't swear to it, but I'm pretty sure the bolts came with the kit. Don't know what grade the bolts were, but the failure was the female threads in the steering arm, not the male threads of the bolt.


After this happened I went back to stock steering,

Shep; Yes my steering arm was threaded.

Looks pretty dangerous to me, steering parts should be able to handle that load. With that setup, very important to make sure bolts are long enough, not bottoming out, as already stated, grade 8, threaded hole in arm is deep enough, very dangerous!

Ed

When I decided to use the 400 series box instead of the Saginaw it was partly do to the way the steering arm mounted. I did a lot of reading on steering geometry and bump steer, having the axis points on opposite ends only added to the issues. With the 400 box mounted in the factory location I didn't need to have the long steering shaft and double u-joints. I was also able to use the factory steering arm and an adjustable drag link, the factory drag link will work but mine was worn out.

Just a note: I have a 4 inch drop axel from Sid's.

Sorry, I'm not being clear. There were threads (I think) in the knuckle or hub (not sure what its called) that the bolts have to pass through before screwing in to the new steering arm. The length of the shoulder of the bolts was very important here. The bolts had to pass through that threaded part just right in order to properly seat the new steering arm. This is from memory but I recall this took a few attempts and different bolts.

Craig, I like that set up. I honestly don't think I could fit that that box though. That looks like right where my exhaust manifold lands. I have an old Caddy motor in my truck. I'm not sure but I think my motor my be a bit wider than a SBC.

Jason