I am in the assembly stage of my wiring harness installation. As of right now I have a machine screw mounted on the firewall that is attached to bare metal on both sides that I am using as a ground for all things on the dash and firewall, is it a good idea to use one common ground like this? I am going to bond the frame to the chassis and run battery neg to engine block and chassis. Dave
1941 Chevy "First rebuild - complete!" Follow the story in the DITY 1941 GMC resting peacefully 1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete 1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration 1941 Plymouth stock complete 1941 GMC COE in restoration process Read his Project Journal 1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Less places to look for a problem, so yes I think it is a good idea.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
I would use a junction block rather than a stack of ring terminals stacked up under a single screw.
I would connect that junction directly to the battery, frame, engine, and body.
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 12/08/20223:52 AM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Most dash components are self grounding usually. What ground wires for "dash things" are you talking about ? What ground wires for "firewall things" you are talking about? Not many of that type either. What vehicle?
You can't have too many grounds but what you are doing sounds a little odd so far.
Last edited by bartamos; 12/08/20225:09 AM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Sheet metal screw to attach the ground(s)- - - - -"L" no!
I'd use several ground wires and attach them with a machine screw and nut at both ends. Jerry .
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Good grounds are very important. Single point grounds have important applications in some electronic and electrical situations, but I'm not so sure that it matters in automotive DC applications. Personally, at most grouind connections, I bare the metal, then use star type lock washers on both sides of the connection. Also, in agreement with previous post, I would never use sheet metal or tapping screws for any electrical connection. I would use machine screws / bolts, with lock washers and nuts.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
And use some sort of anti corrosion protectant, I use my old battery terminal protectant for such things, or vaseline, etc. Especially if removing paint.
Last edited by Truckrolet; 12/08/20228:29 PM.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
I started this thread stating that I was using a machine screw on the firewall and I had stripped both sides to bare metal. I don’t understand why you think I was using sheetmetal screws or anything less.
1941 Chevy "First rebuild - complete!" Follow the story in the DITY 1941 GMC resting peacefully 1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete 1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration 1941 Plymouth stock complete 1941 GMC COE in restoration process Read his Project Journal 1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
