The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 20" wheel replacement

Any ideas on replacing the wheels on my 1950 1.5t dually. I'd like to replace my widowmakers with a one piece wheel. Thanks, Jim

Hy rev383, I believe newer "P" van wheels will fit and I think they are available in 19.5" and 22.5", hope that helps.

Let me know if they are available in 22.5".
I have done some extensive searching and 19.5" is the largest I know of that is available new.

Not all multiple piece wheels are bad.
If they split in the center and look like two identical halves then they are the dangerous ones. Don't play with those.

If they have 1 or two small bands that snap in at the very edge of one side of the wheel they are the useable ones as long as nothing is worn or bent out of shape. I would keep them if you have them.

An 8R19.5" tire on the available 19.5" rims are only about 33" tall. Nothing available taller for that rim. If you want to go as fast as you did before stick with what you have, about 37 or 38" I believe.

Don't you guys forget about havin' new ones made. My friend was just quoted 173 per wheel. Kindofa lot, but if you end up going faster than 55 or so with updates they'd be safer. Now I just have to see how close they can make them look to original for my own needs. He asked on my behalf about welding new outer (non split) rims to the older inner section, but apparently the two metals, old and new, are not compatible and wouldn't be strong enough...or so they said.

When I first got my truck I was filling up a flat off of the truck(the truck was still in the woods).I had the rims with the ring on the outside.I wasn't sure on how safe it was so I layed the tire flat and hit the side with a 2x3.The ring popped off and went just higher than the barn roof,which is 30".It looked like it would still hurt alot to get hit in the face.I towed the truck out with a flat,you can see the ruined tire in my pics.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/551424330/2061074150092821122FDOUxa#

If anyone is interested in making 22.5" wheels with the old centers you will probably need to find a Dayton type 22.5" rim to weld the old center into. At least that is what I have decided from my research as a place to start. A plane 22.5" rim, like if you removed a different center from it is not small enough on the inside to fit the old center. Although I suppose you could cut only part of the center out of a new wheel and weld an old center to that....

I don't see a problem with welding the old to new.

All wheels are dangerious if not treated with respect. The lock ring type just require more care than a modern tubeless ones. I would stay away from the split in the middle ones though.

Grigg, have any outer rim doner suggestions to use (regular tubless) for 20's that I might be able to weld in my original rim centers? That's what are on my 46's.

Tomcoe,
I did not look in to using tubless 20" wheels.
Be sure the dropped center will clear the brake drums, proably will if people can use 19.5" tubless ones without problems.
You can find all the measurements and part numbers online for the new wheels offered by Accuride. The are the only real supplier of new steel wheels for trucks. The plain rim can be bought without a center if you have to. Some of the more common big truck wheels are only about $120 or so new.
You may try a search of this site for Accuride, I think I have posted a link to their catalog.
Any more questions?
Grigg

Just my oppinion, but if you don't want to change to a different tire size then I would just use what you have with tubes. The work involved in making tubless 20" wheels with 10 lug on 7.25" is not worth the benifits to me.

But then I probably can't justify the switch to 9R22.5" tires either, they are the same overall diameter as the old 8.25X20" ones.

That would be OK, but can the split ring type wheel be safe with tubes over 55? My ultimate goal is to have a totally original looking truck that will go 70 if needed....that would be cool. I think the 350 swap with possible auto overdrive would get me close, but I worry about that speed with the original wheel setup. I'm not sure what will have to happen with suspention either but that is further down the road.

I would not worry about it, tube type wheels have set many land speed reccords.

Just be sure your tires are rated for the speed you want to go. And if they are not quite then not having a load and going faster may be OK? They are rated to go a max speed with a max load, I think it may be safe to a point to trade one for the other. See what others think about the idea first?

I won't worry about going 7o mph with the 20" wheels! In april I purchased Joy & Tony's 45 2 ton in Ontario, NY and drove it home to Nepean, Ontario, Canada with tires that were probably 25 years old, and hit speeds of 70mph. Since then I purchased new tires and carefully took apart the rims, sandblasted them and then dp40 primed them and painted with a good quality epoxy paint. I put everything back together and now I use the truck everyday to drive 25 miles to work at an average speed of 60mph. No problems yet.

Well, good enough for me. That is one hurdle out of the way....now,

this is a wheel post, but since we're on the topic, shall I assume the 46 era straight axel and king pins etc is up to the highway speeds also?

If they are good and tight like they should be then no problems.
You may consider more caster when you do your front end alignment, it should help keep you in the center of the road a bit and not wander so much.

Brakes would be the big thing to worry about.
Probably want a dual master cylinder for safety reasons at speed. That complicates a stock hydrovac system, because you now need two..
For a power booster, I have to recommend a hydroboost like the new diesel trucks.
Without a full load the big truck brakes should be adequate at speed. However I hear that people who use Kevlar shoes like them, I would look into that.

Check my pictures below for some ideas.
Search for hydroboost for more info.
Might want to start a new thread with your plans and ideas so we can help you better understand your options.

Grigg

Thanks Grigg, I will do it. I guess I better figure out my plans before starting that thread!

Thanks for all the info... it's all in my build book now.

Jim