Gee whiz I wish we had some sort of a repository for all this stuff. But that aside, I have received messages and email questions about the fuel gauge. There are folks who are wondering if their gauge has been damaged...and that is a possibility as has been discussed previously. So, let's look at one easy way you can know. First, please look at the images below. In the first image you will see an exposed and operational fuel gauge. There are some arrows here and also you will see my red watch movement oiler resting above the copper colored coil. That is for a reason. The bolt behind that is where your red tag should be...where the line coming from the ignition switch will connect. There is also a red arrow pointing to it. It is vitally important you know where the hot wire goes. You will also see a purple arrow. That's where I want you to attach a common alligator clip test wire (or if you wish just hold one connection to your handheld electronic meter to it). You'll see a yellow arrow and that is where the other connector for your handheld meter will touch for contact. The meter should be set for the lowest resistance choice you have and the resistance should read 36 ohms or so. You can see that in the second and third images. Now leave the alligator clip connected to the original spot and touch the area represented in the first image by the turquoise arrow. You can see me doing that in the fourth image and in the fifth image you can see I get a reading of 27.7 ohms. If the windings of both of your coils are intact and undamaged, you should get these readings. If not, please fiddle with your connections a bit...often it can be challenging to make good contact with the tips of your meter's probes. The watch movement you see in the background is an AS 1880/81 in case you're wondering. A 17 jewel manual wind with date. Hope this helps. If either or both of your coils are damaged, you will not get these resistance readings. You may get no resistance or you may get a completely different reading.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Update: After hours of testing and diagnosis, I found that BOTH my 12v reproduction fuel gauges are working. Apparently, a quick touch of 12v power to the sender post on the gauge did not kill it. So, what was my problem???? I changed the wire from the ignition switch to the fuel gauge. It was my last resort. I replaced the 18ga wire with 12ga. That's it. Nothing more complicated. After ordering gauges, removing the cluster, replacing gauges, checking the sender, grounding the sender to the chassis vs the cab, lying upside down for hours, it was all for nothing. I even tested the wire that I replaced for continuity. It's beyond explanation.
Hi Don, From reading your post it sounds like you still do not have a working fuel gauge. Am I right on this or did I misunderstand? Sorry but part of your message makes me think both work okay and part of your message makes me think you may not have success. Please let me know.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Thanks for the update, although 12 gauge is a bit of overkill. The original supply was 16 gauge so your 18 gauge wire would have been fine running 12 volts. You’ll probably find one of the connections were bad on your supply line. At any rate, I’m happy you solved your issue.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Yes, my new 12v gauge is working. Thanks for the support and information.
I am suspicious of my ignition switch. The switch is from a 55-57. I believe that it was installed when the truck was converted to 12v. That switch design has more contacts than the 54-55.1.
If I replace it sometime, I will stick with the later design.
