Probably not noticeable in the photo (/s) but there is a slight gap under the straight edge, indicating the floor is out of flat. Just barely...like 1 1/2" !
Thinking I need to raise the cab by the roof to take pressure off of the floor where it rests on the frame. Anyone else have anything like this bad an issue?
Rest assured the rocker is only held in place by my hand on one end, not welded/tacked. The inner rear corner is fitted now.
Paul
Last edited by paul65; 11/25/202210:14 PM.
1951 3100 5-window with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed Some of the story in ODSS Most of it in The Shops Area
What condition are the cab to frame mounts, and is the frame level with the floor? I use jackscrew-type stands for a travel trailer to assure the frame isn't twisted, plus a 4 foot carpenter's level to be sure I'm not building in a twist before trying to do major sheet metal replacement. Chain anchors in the shop floor and jack screws are a definite advantage when doing any kind of frame or structural work. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The cab floor has two supports (front and rear) on each side. Once you remove the metal at the end of a support, that portion of the cab is free to drop down. Look at the distance difference of the cab to the running board supports.
Last edited by buoymaker; 11/25/202211:17 PM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Check the dimensions in the Factory Assembly Manual. It will give you the required height of things like the hinge bolts among other things above the floor.
Your floor is definitely out of whack. Check the front cab supports. If you still have the cab on the frame, you'll need to raise the front of the cab so the floor can be flat front to back.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
It appears that the hinge pillar is released from the front cab support and the frame is pushing the floor up while the hinge pillar (and fron of the cab) drop down. There is a lot of activity related to tying the floor, rocker panel, hinge pillar, and cab support/mount to keep them moving together.
Success. I figured the driver side front mount had crumbled meaning the cab as simply leaning into the front left corner. I raised the cab by the roof and hey presto, flat floor.
Cut out some of the driver side floor and mocked up the mount support rail that runs under the floor. Looking MUCH better. Nothing being welded until everything lines up. Have to admit that initial gap had me worried.
First photo is level on top of old floor, second photo is with removed floor and level resting on mount rail.
Last edited by paul65; 11/26/20224:39 PM.
1951 3100 5-window with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed Some of the story in ODSS Most of it in The Shops Area
Once the repair panels are tacked into place firmly, check the fit of the doors. It's a lot simpler to reposition things before an error gets locked in by welding the pieces fully. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Once the repair panels are tacked into place firmly, check the fit of the doors. It's a lot simpler to reposition things before an error gets locked in by welding the pieces fully. Jerry
Absolutely, all this work is simply trying to get the driver side looking reasonable. At that point I will re attach the door to see how near/far I am from where it needs to be.
1951 3100 5-window with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed Some of the story in ODSS Most of it in The Shops Area
This is an excellent picture to explain how a door can be sprung. The kick panel and lower cowl are not in place. All that remains is the door post that holds the hinge. Notice how thin the metal is compared to the hinge. If you have a rusted door hinge you can easily bend this metal if you force the door to open or close. It's a weakness in GM's design. The door pocket needs better support.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
