Okay. Item one. Take inventory of my supplies. I know I want to stock up on some 3M Stikit sandpaper. I had been using Porter Cable sticky sanding rolls, but they are for the wrong application and make a mess of my blocks. I also want to find a better sanding block. I've been looking at Lucky Matt's and Linear Blocks. Linear has the 32" flex block on back order, but a 44" for the same price. If 44" is too long, I can always cut it down. I think I only need a long block for my big panels. I can true my Dura Blocks for some of the smaller areas. Otherwise, I think I have enough prepaint degreaser. And plenty of lint free rags. I still have plenty of 3M Platinum filler, which I hope I won't need any of. I also have about a gallon of epoxy primer hanging around in quart cans.
For a small moment, I thought I would short cut things, but I won't. All the glass will be coming out, doors and fenders removed. It's tough because of all the time you spend making things fit. But, there are tricks that can be utilized to put the doors right back where you pulled them from. All the basic stuff was done long ago, like rebuilding the hinges, so there is no worry about putting the door back and it not being where I want them to be. Any rubber that won't cooperate will be replaced by Steele Rubber. Most of the stuff on the truck is still pliable.
Some of the worries I need to figure out? Where to put the doors and fenders and such while I'm doing the main body. Where to put the '40 when I roll the body out and start working on the doors, fenders and such. Things like that.
Sounds like you've got a good plan, Mark. I'll have the same issue with where to put stuff as I get it painted.
I agree that removing doors, etc. is the way to get a quality paint job. Trying to get paint in to nooks and crannies is a recipe for runs. With everything out in the open, it'll go better from that standpoint.
Good Luck.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I was applying some degreaser to the roof. I really don't want to start sanding until the proper materials show up, so I do some of the little things until that happens. While applying and wiping off the degreaser, I kept bumping my head on the "paint booth" and dodging the 8' fluorescents. So, to temporarily remedy that, I find some 4"-6" wood blocks and "raise the roof" a little bit. That should make a difference. I also figured out where to put the main body after I paint it, so I have the booth for doors, hood and fenders. My driveway will be a little bit of a Jenga, but it should work. Again, it's only temporary. I think I will get me a few more 2' ladders for making a temporary scaffold. It seems to be the cheapest option. That and a couple of 2x10's will facilitate painting the main body roof and sides. That stuff I can wait a little bit to acquire.
Woke up at 3 am. So I went out and threw those blocks in. Better than putting in a full shift in the heat, then coming home and doing more in the heat. Besides, it's nice and quiet. It's also my favorite time to sand. ANYWAY, talk about a difference. The pictures don't show it that well, but 6" of block is going to make a BIG difference.
And more good news. Shelterlogic agreed that my tarp should be replaced under warranty. Waiting for it won't stop me from sanding. It will be more important when it comes time to paint!
Started with some 180 grit and a long block. That black primer IS epoxy but it has been in the sun way too long. Spent about 10 minutes on it as I wanted to see if I could get away with ladders, or if it would be good to set up the scaffolding now. I’ll stick with the ladders a little longer. You can already see a lot of the high and low points revealing themselves.
I’m happy with the work on the roof I did all those years ago. I think I have to address issues with the drivers rear lead joint, but the rest of the roof should get there with a few rounds of high build and block sanding. I’m really happy with the crown on both sides. That’s the part that will get looked at a lot as the the sun will hit it, it is a big panel and is at or just above eyeball height. That is one thing that used to bug me about a mid 60’s Suburban I used to see at a car show I attended for a few years. The body looked great, but it looked like they chose to ignore the roof! It looked like years of digging bars leaned against that crown and all they did was sand and paint it. Anyway…
I have some mechanical issues I need to deal with. Time to get the scaffold parts. I might be ready to spray primer tomorrow morning! I also have an air leak. I have a hose that runs 80’ from my compressor, around the house, and to my work area. I try to keep the hose tucked next to the wall, but it moves away and is then stepped on. It starts to leak and fail in that area. I might get some heavy wall copper for that area.
Work will continue until the heat makes it unbearable. But I think it’s breakfast/lunch time with the wife. We do this every Friday that we can!
Ok. Spent the morning installing the Shelterlogic cover and repaired the air leak. Now, maybe, just maybe, I can get back to actually working on the Suburban. It's always all those little 5 minute jobs!!
Not much to the story. Hope to have a coat of primer by Friday, Saturday morning? That’s the goal, anyway. Then more sanding. After the roof will come side A or B, whichever. When one side is done I’ll order the color and clear. I guess I better step it up if I want it done by October. The chrome alone will take about a month!
Okay. Coat of epoxy. Still winds, 2 gnats. 75 degrees. An hour and a half later, I’m done spraying. It’s starting to warm up. I see a couple of spots in strategic areas that need addressing. Otherwise it’s getting straighter all the time. Forgot how tiring it is to hold my arm straight out from my body, holding a spray gun, for long periods of time. Gonna feel that tomorrow.
Maybe tomorrow I’ll have time to start block sanding again.
All this on a bum ankle. Hope that clears up soon. Stupid gout.
Lookin’ good! You’ve been at this for a long time (I’ve been following your journal), an now it’s down to the final stretch. Keep up the good work and I am also looking forward to the finish. Bet it’s going to be a stunner!
Last edited by Phak1; 07/05/202211:32 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I can’t wait to see it done. It was wicked cool before you tore it down for repaint!
Last edited by Fox; 07/06/20224:42 AM.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Holy cow, that is one long sanding block! You should be able to get it looking good with that.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
First order of business. Remove the remnants of masking tape that baked on there the whole month of July. After that, a wash. Then, clean out the work area as it has gathered leaves and animal evidence. Might still be a bit warm to sand today, but tomorrow should be better. Plus, I’ve been waking up at three in the morning so it’ll be good to work in the cooler part of the day.
New plan, for now. Finish working the roof and get it back to the shade of black it has been for a while. Work the large side panels, up to the time I need to make everything black for the annual Nitro Revival the first weekend of November. After that, it’s game back on. Pull it apart, do a proper paint job. As weather allows in my non-temp controlled paint booth. Plan was to have this done before the revival, but at least I’ll finally get it done!
More blocking. Amazing all the low spots you find when blocking. Of course, they are always in the hardest place to work! I'm liking the Matt's Lucky Blocks for the tight curves.
Bummer on the tent cover. All that sunshine isn't good for stuff like that.
Hope it lasted till the paint dried. At least you don't have to worry much about rain down there -- maybe bird poop!
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
Lol! I'm always interested in how this stuff works out. For those that fabricate, sometimes the ideas are good, but the application doesn't work out. I started with the dog house design because that was the type of filter I already have on the Burb. About the only place I could fit that, was back under the hood where the air tends to be warm. So, I got a filter that would fit the wife's Yukon. I figured flatter would work a little better. There is plenty of space under that fender, but it can be a bit of a harsh environment. And, there still needs to be some decent serviceability. Once I build the box, I'll need to figure out how to latch the two sealing parts of it, then figure out how to securely mount it under there. I have the fender brace and the inner to outer fender areas. We'll see if I need to get to the outer lip for attachment needs. Plus I can run a brace off of the inner fender. I don't want it looking too obvious from standing outside of the vehicle. But I need to fit the box, and two lengths of 3" tubing. I want to pick up air from the inner fender just behind the grill. Maybe benefit from a touch of positive air pressure as my speed increases.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
My mini Thor hammer with loose handle. That and the odd chunk of 1/2" aluminum is how i smoothed the rolled over edges! In fact, I used the special technique of removing the handle and tapping stuff with the head only. Why walk 60' across the shop, unzip the cover, unlock the drawers of my tool box when I can use something close by! LOL!
